The Tamiya battery (or it's internals) are made by A123. It is a 2 cell version, as A123 cells put out 3.3v when charged.

The A123 cells are about the same diameter as a sub C, but are a bit longer.

Jim

Any specific o-rings that you're using?

guys,

i understand many of us are using hb 13t bl systems or any brush or brushless esc.

lets share our tidiest esc (wires, position) photo on a m chasis? i believe many have seen tony youtube video on the A123 battery with tamiya tble-01 bl system...can we do better than them????

i will upload mine tonight, i will try to fit our hb esc into the rear chasis...finger cross.....

some inspiring shots to keep the mind working..................

My car is messy, but it's on purpose. I like to keep all wires accessible for those manic in between heat teardowns. All electronic components are held in place with industrial grade velcro. I can have the electrical stuff (servo, speedy, receiver, transponder and motor) out in under a minute, and the rest of the car torn down in about 5 minutes.

Most fasteners are hex-head machine screws, including chassis, motor, suspension, etc.

What can I say? I'm crashy.

Jim

I don't have a mini, but my wiring jobs follow the same philosophy. Everything has to be easily accesible and easy to take off the car. I am not that crashy (actually I can't remember ever destroying electronics) but if something needs to be serviced in a hurry I don't want to have to take out bits I don't need to.

The ones I read were these...

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=222362

I think A123 were already making them for other electric devices and decided they might fit in some RC cars. Many LiPo chargers made since 2006 have the option to charge these cells.

They are the superior 'fun' batteries in many ways, but they do lose out in terms of voltage and capacity, so even if they are allowed in races, they wouldn't be competitive.

I sometimes read about them in drag races (where capacity isn't so important, number of cells is not limited, and anything goes for motors) and of course basher vehicles.

Robust, safe but low energy density, like the Ni-Cads of the lithium battery era.

The main attraction over other battery types is the 15 minute charge time & supersafe chemistry though the latter is not much of an issue anymore (kind of). I suppose it can be good for crawling where speed is not a factor and in MTs where there is a lot of chassis space to have a high number of cells but in racing applications I rather be driving the car with old fashioned lipos and have the competition use these.

Just in case you're concerned about the fit, here are some pics courtesy of Tamiya with the LF2200 pack fitted in various kits.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/notice...tery/index.htm

Need some new tires for your mini but can't remember the part number? Not even sure what's available? Or just too damn lazy to google it yourself?



Finally we've got somewhere to go to find out

Go HERE to find our all-new tyre reference page. All the tires you know and love, and some you've probably never heard of as well.

thats great telling us what is available in tires now all i need to know which ones are good for what surface i know 3 racing tires are like drift tires on ashphelt

Rozzt .. that is the big secret

I have most of those tyres in stock and it still is not easy getting the right setup

I've gotten hold of a box-standard M01 to go along with my M03, and I'm planning on sticking an M-length box to convert it into M02M length, to suit the HPI Datsun 510 body (RWD of course... ).

I think its been built right, but I'm not sure about the L-springs that control side to side movement. Its currently got a silver and a black one on each end of the car. Its been a looooooong time since I had one of these chassis (an M02L Beetle in 1999) but is that right? Aren't the colours meant to be the same colour at the same end?

Heres what I'm talking about:

I think they came with shock caps for one of the 1/18 scale cars few years ago.
I had 4 of them and still have 2.
I ran my car again yesterday, so now I am sure I have 8 race days on this diff.
I will take it apart before the next season just to see whats the damage.
Rob

I found that when I put two shims in my diff it got very notchy as soon as I started to get a little teeny bit of lock on it. Do you suspect that the o-rings alleviate this?

Jim

The colors are for either left or right. U can try them as they wont fit if installed on the wrong side.

Clarence