I was looking at your set up in your pictures and was wondering if you dremeled your top center diff mount or just twisted your carb a whole bunch , or a little of both for your carb boot not to rub the center diff mount? I had to dremmel mine a little bit. My friend is building one with the same engine as yours and the carb boot is going to hit. We both are using the losi engine mounts that come with a kit. Im not to familiar with the quick change engine mounts, but do they enable you to move your engine towards the rear of the truck so your flywheel is in the exact center of the chassis opening, and also enabling the carb boot not to rub the diff mount? I just dont really like how the th/brk linkage sets up on these things with the boot rubbing.

The Losi quickchange engine mount allows the engine to go forward making the carby linkage on more of an angle.
Dont worry about a little angle on the carby linkage as it does no harm..yes you can dremel the top plate if you like but I never bothered and not really necessary.

x2

i just angeled the carb so it would miss. never had an issue

Jesus, what was I drinking.. Let me try this again.

How do I know if I have the servo spring adjusted with the correct amount of tension? I know how to adjust it, I just don't know the correct amount of adjusting.

Thanks

are you using the 1.0 spring?? if so I have mine at between 2mm to 5mm from flush.....

The 1.0 spring is on it's way.

How did you come up with that number? There has to be a method for setting it.

Are you using the aluminum top?

That's what I used when I raced my 1.0, it's a matter of trial and error, for me anything not in that range was either too loose or too tight. I just took the same range for my 2.0 and it has worked soo far. From what I saw the stock setting was flush with the 2.0 spring, being that the 1.0 is a little softer you would need to tighten it a little bit more to get the correct tension, just my 0.2

The top aluminum saver is on it's way.....

hey all i ran a set of these last wknd race and lots of wheel clearance and plenty of throw. thought i would give em a try and liked the extra stability so much went ahead and raced main and won. has a little push and little less steering in a sticky turn but the truck rotates so easy and on a lrg outdoor track wasnt too bad, wish someone had some +3or4 maybe. by the way that was my 4th race wknd on a set of avid bearings and they still feel ok, im going to try them at least through the heats sat & see how they are, all these bearing issues im hearing has me skeered not to change em! i did break a rad. tray though at the front of steering servo?

Not to sound like a complete noob, but what do you mean "too loose or too tight"?

too loose not enough steering, it can't hold the servo arm in place when turning, too tight meaning that when you turn it has too much resistance and doesn't give enough, resulting in stripped servo arms or servo issues......

the servo saver function as in it name, is there to protect your servo from crashes/hard landings, if it's too tight or loose won't do it's job.

e-mikey..its more of a feel thing.....take the the saver rack and top plate off the front bulk and hold it in your hands.....work the saver back n forth and "feel" the tension....basically allow the cam to pivot with just enough tension on the spring to allow the whole system to work..if it's too tight it will feel sticky and not smooth as it should be.

I just rotate the carb enough that it doesn't hit on the center diff. Boot almost touches, but not quite. I have been running these motors like that for 2 years now and no problems. I know some have dremeled for clearance, but I never do. I have always run the King Headz or Losi quick change mount though.

I think I understand now, thank you.

I am using the alum saver top and the 2.0 set up It is set a little looser than the 1.0 but I agree that it is a personal driving technique thing. Some drivers like it loose and others like it tight. I use to tighten the 1.0 all the way down and every weekend I would blow up the plastic lower piece, after a season of having it set too tight I even blew up the top bearing in a JR9100T. That is too tight. Through trial and error I have found that I like it tight enough so the servo holds the wheels where I point them, but not to tight that it cant do its job. I put it together and then with the radio on try to make the saver work by moving the wheels with my hand by trial and error I know when it is right. Just play with the saver and you will find the right setting.

Does anyone know where I can find some black or red anodized 5-40 locknuts?