Loosing bind
#1
I have a tekin g-11 with an orion v2 12x2 motor. When fastly pulling the throttle to full, my spektrum temporarily looses bind and goes to failsafe (only for a slit second). If I pull on it slowly its fine. I've tried to adjust the current limiter, with no luck. Do I need a capacitor somewhere? Maybe my jucker batts are causing the problem?
#2
Is this happening with all your batteries? Sound like your batts maybe worn out...
A 12x2 and G-11 shouldn't have that problem. Check your motor brushes and comm.. maybe they are chipped or the comm has too much brush residue. You should inspect and cut that motor every 4-6 runs to keep it in tip top shape.
Jerome
A 12x2 and G-11 shouldn't have that problem. Check your motor brushes and comm.. maybe they are chipped or the comm has too much brush residue. You should inspect and cut that motor every 4-6 runs to keep it in tip top shape.
Jerome

#4
I have a tekin g-11 with an orion v2 12x2 motor. When fastly pulling the throttle to full, my spektrum temporarily looses bind and goes to failsafe (only for a slit second). If I pull on it slowly its fine. I've tried to adjust the current limiter, with no luck. Do I need a capacitor somewhere? Maybe my jucker batts are causing the problem?
#6
If it were truly "losing bind" he'd need to rebind the receiver.
#7
Right, the current draw is taking the BEC below the voltage level the receiver needs to continue to operate at. That's what the Voltage Protector does is provide a momentary boost in this high-draw scenarios to maintain the minimum voltage requirements.
If it were truly "losing bind" he'd need to rebind the receiver.
If it were truly "losing bind" he'd need to rebind the receiver.
I had a similar issue on my nomadio in my 1/8 brushless but i beleive I've eliminated it. It was far less frequent in mine so very hard to track down but mostly it happened during hard acceleration
I did 3 things and each had merit.
1. Increased the default failsafe time from .2s to .5s , it helped the symptoms but did not completely eliminate the occurances.
2. Installed the glitch buster.
3. Changed all my battery and esc connectors. (They were getting warm and were the most likely cause.)
IMO it was the battery connectors but the Glitch buster is good insurance if the problem develops again during a race.
#8
Is that the same as the novak glitch buster?
I had a similar issue on my nomadio in my 1/8 brushless but i beleive I've eliminated it. It was far less frequent in mine so very hard to track down but mostly it happened during hard acceleration
I did 3 things and each had merit.
1. Increased the default failsafe time from .2s to .5s , it helped the symptoms but did not completely eliminate the occurances.
2. Installed the glitch buster.
3. Changed all my battery and esc connectors. (They were getting warm and were the most likely cause.)
IMO it was the battery connectors but the Glitch buster is good insurance if the problem develops again during a race.
I had a similar issue on my nomadio in my 1/8 brushless but i beleive I've eliminated it. It was far less frequent in mine so very hard to track down but mostly it happened during hard acceleration
I did 3 things and each had merit.
1. Increased the default failsafe time from .2s to .5s , it helped the symptoms but did not completely eliminate the occurances.
2. Installed the glitch buster.
3. Changed all my battery and esc connectors. (They were getting warm and were the most likely cause.)
IMO it was the battery connectors but the Glitch buster is good insurance if the problem develops again during a race.




