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-   -   Loosing bind (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/276716-loosing-bind.html)

DANE_TRAIN 02-18-2009 04:41 PM

Loosing bind
 
I have a tekin g-11 with an orion v2 12x2 motor. When fastly pulling the throttle to full, my spektrum temporarily looses bind and goes to failsafe (only for a slit second). If I pull on it slowly its fine. I've tried to adjust the current limiter, with no luck. Do I need a capacitor somewhere? Maybe my jucker batts are causing the problem?

JeromeK99 02-18-2009 04:45 PM

Is this happening with all your batteries? Sound like your batts maybe worn out...

A 12x2 and G-11 shouldn't have that problem. Check your motor brushes and comm.. maybe they are chipped or the comm has too much brush residue. You should inspect and cut that motor every 4-6 runs to keep it in tip top shape.


Jerome :tire::tire:

DANE_TRAIN 02-18-2009 04:48 PM

Eveything is fresh/new except the batts. Hmmm I guess thats the problem.

RCGaryK 02-18-2009 06:05 PM


Originally Posted by DANE_TRAIN (Post 5450649)
I have a tekin g-11 with an orion v2 12x2 motor. When fastly pulling the throttle to full, my spektrum temporarily looses bind and goes to failsafe (only for a slit second). If I pull on it slowly its fine. I've tried to adjust the current limiter, with no luck. Do I need a capacitor somewhere? Maybe my jucker batts are causing the problem?

Yeah, try the Spektrum Voltage Protector, SPM1600. With the older Tekin ESC's I had to run one as the BEC voltage was a little on the low side. I realize the G-11 isn't "old-old", like maybe a G-12C but it's still based on the G-10 Pro.

wizby 02-19-2009 02:37 PM

Gary am I right in thinking he is not loseing bind? The motor/esc is taking the current away from the RX. Kind of a brown out. The RX is momentarily with out suficient current to keep operating.

RCGaryK 02-19-2009 02:53 PM


Originally Posted by wizby (Post 5454673)
Gary am I right in thinking he is not loseing bind? The motor/esc is taking the current away from the RX. Kind of a brown out. The RX is momentarily with out suficient current to keep operating.

Right, the current draw is taking the BEC below the voltage level the receiver needs to continue to operate at. That's what the Voltage Protector does is provide a momentary boost in this high-draw scenarios to maintain the minimum voltage requirements.

If it were truly "losing bind" he'd need to rebind the receiver.

eXraycer 02-19-2009 03:07 PM


Originally Posted by RCGaryK (Post 5454760)
Right, the current draw is taking the BEC below the voltage level the receiver needs to continue to operate at. That's what the Voltage Protector does is provide a momentary boost in this high-draw scenarios to maintain the minimum voltage requirements.

If it were truly "losing bind" he'd need to rebind the receiver.

Is that the same as the novak glitch buster?


I had a similar issue on my nomadio in my 1/8 brushless but i beleive I've eliminated it. It was far less frequent in mine so very hard to track down but mostly it happened during hard acceleration

I did 3 things and each had merit.

1. Increased the default failsafe time from .2s to .5s , it helped the symptoms but did not completely eliminate the occurances.
2. Installed the glitch buster.
3. Changed all my battery and esc connectors. (They were getting warm and were the most likely cause.)

IMO it was the battery connectors but the Glitch buster is good insurance if the problem develops again during a race.

RCGaryK 02-19-2009 03:14 PM


Originally Posted by eXraycer (Post 5454819)
Is that the same as the novak glitch buster?


I had a similar issue on my nomadio in my 1/8 brushless but i beleive I've eliminated it. It was far less frequent in mine so very hard to track down but mostly it happened during hard acceleration

I did 3 things and each had merit.

1. Increased the default failsafe time from .2s to .5s , it helped the symptoms but did not completely eliminate the occurances.
2. Installed the glitch buster.
3. Changed all my battery and esc connectors. (They were getting warm and were the most likely cause.)

IMO it was the battery connectors but the Glitch buster is good insurance if the problem develops again during a race.

Not familiar with the Glitch Buster so I don't know.


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