Tamiya mini cooper
#7516
"rcmart.com"
I order a lot of stuff out of Hong Kong and Singapore. It's regrettable that local hobby shops won't or can't compete. I do like to support local business, but if I'm getting better selection at half the price...sorry LHS.
Also, check out http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/default.php and http://www.vellrip.com/store/home.asp
They're both good sources for mini parts, with good pricing.
Jim
I order a lot of stuff out of Hong Kong and Singapore. It's regrettable that local hobby shops won't or can't compete. I do like to support local business, but if I'm getting better selection at half the price...sorry LHS.
Also, check out http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/default.php and http://www.vellrip.com/store/home.asp
They're both good sources for mini parts, with good pricing.
Jim
#7517
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,883
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
I am plannig on ordering Avid bearings for the M03M but have a question...what type is recommended? Rubber, metal, revolutions? Or a mixture per application ie) revolutions for hubs, metal for tranny, etc.
Correct?
8 - 5x10x4
4 - 5x11x4
2 - 5x8x2.5
Thanks in advance!
Correct?
8 - 5x10x4
4 - 5x11x4
2 - 5x8x2.5
Thanks in advance!
#7518
We usually take about 8-10 guys from Australia. It is increasing each year. One of the best race events around. The Mini class will be interesting. Hopefully they separate the two classes of Mini. Apparently they have a good Mini following in Bangkok so the class should be good. And you live so close .. easy for you to get to.
#7519
Hey guys,Just got my first mini.....
It came with a set of the Blue aluminum shocks.....what is the hot setup on these ???
It still had all the bushings in it so i put in the bearings.....also put in the Ball diff.......
the guy was running the shocks with #3 hole pistons .....2 red seals under the rears and 4 under the front pistons....dont know what weight oil....
do you shim all that slop out of the frontend?
any help would be app......
Thank's.....
It came with a set of the Blue aluminum shocks.....what is the hot setup on these ???
It still had all the bushings in it so i put in the bearings.....also put in the Ball diff.......
the guy was running the shocks with #3 hole pistons .....2 red seals under the rears and 4 under the front pistons....dont know what weight oil....
do you shim all that slop out of the frontend?
any help would be app......
Thank's.....
Last edited by Factory Seal; 10-19-2008 at 09:43 PM.
#7521
Looking for advice on a steering servo. I think mine is slowing down, and it was never a fast servo to start with.
Can anyone offer any advice as to what would be a good, quick servo, but still priced within reason? As a way of offering reference, I'll say that a servo that costs more than $100 is not reasonable, especially for a mini.
Jim
Can anyone offer any advice as to what would be a good, quick servo, but still priced within reason? As a way of offering reference, I'll say that a servo that costs more than $100 is not reasonable, especially for a mini.
Jim
#7522
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...th=595_744_707
wonders if this arm will help to reduce the mo3 traction roll problem...i notice mo3R will not roll as easy...even a very light lipo powered car....my current setting will only work with nimh, when use lipo it will flip almost at every corner.....also my sport tune its same speed as a sliver can any help on that too??
i am usingM03 + GTX with sport tune, and the other guy its using M03R + TEU101 esc with sliver can but i can seems to close the gap in between...
wonders if this arm will help to reduce the mo3 traction roll problem...i notice mo3R will not roll as easy...even a very light lipo powered car....my current setting will only work with nimh, when use lipo it will flip almost at every corner.....also my sport tune its same speed as a sliver can any help on that too??
i am usingM03 + GTX with sport tune, and the other guy its using M03R + TEU101 esc with sliver can but i can seems to close the gap in between...
#7523
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,156
From: Brisbane
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...th=595_744_707
wonders if this arm will help to reduce the mo3 traction roll problem...i notice mo3R will not roll as easy...even a very light lipo powered car....my current setting will only work with nimh, when use lipo it will flip almost at every corner.....also my sport tune its same speed as a sliver can any help on that too??
i am usingM03 + GTX with sport tune, and the other guy its using M03R + TEU101 esc with sliver can but i can seems to close the gap in between...
wonders if this arm will help to reduce the mo3 traction roll problem...i notice mo3R will not roll as easy...even a very light lipo powered car....my current setting will only work with nimh, when use lipo it will flip almost at every corner.....also my sport tune its same speed as a sliver can any help on that too??
i am usingM03 + GTX with sport tune, and the other guy its using M03R + TEU101 esc with sliver can but i can seems to close the gap in between...
Plus you can't use the antiroll bar with them (takes a tuning option away)
Sports tuned motors can be very incosistent and they don't last very long now-a-days.
Cheers
#7527
edwintklee,
There are two versions of the spice arms. These arms are also marketed under the Tech racing name.
One version as shown in your link has the shock mounting point moulded into the arm, with no provision for attaching swaybars as Ashley has pointed out.
The second version has the front shock mounting point seperate which is attached to the arm by one screw and has the holes for attaching front and rear swaybars.
Presently here in Aust they are not legal to be used in club challenges, etc, as it is thought the one piece arms give a slight advantage to the suspension system by taking some of the slop out of the lower a arms. They are also more rigid.
CYA
Calvin.
There are two versions of the spice arms. These arms are also marketed under the Tech racing name.
One version as shown in your link has the shock mounting point moulded into the arm, with no provision for attaching swaybars as Ashley has pointed out.
The second version has the front shock mounting point seperate which is attached to the arm by one screw and has the holes for attaching front and rear swaybars.
Presently here in Aust they are not legal to be used in club challenges, etc, as it is thought the one piece arms give a slight advantage to the suspension system by taking some of the slop out of the lower a arms. They are also more rigid.
CYA
Calvin.
#7528
Folks,
Can someone advise on whether I can use a different servo saver in a mini.
I bought a mini 2nd hand and it was missing some servo saver pieces and bought a kimbrough which is shorter (from ball stud to spline) than the tamiya part.
1. Will this make any difference? I am assuming it would impact on bump steer given the change in angle of the steering arms; and
2. If it is no good what is the best servo saver to get and part numbers if you have them.
Thanks for the help,
Paul
Can someone advise on whether I can use a different servo saver in a mini.
I bought a mini 2nd hand and it was missing some servo saver pieces and bought a kimbrough which is shorter (from ball stud to spline) than the tamiya part.
1. Will this make any difference? I am assuming it would impact on bump steer given the change in angle of the steering arms; and
2. If it is no good what is the best servo saver to get and part numbers if you have them.
Thanks for the help,
Paul
Last edited by pmc213; 10-20-2008 at 03:51 AM. Reason: grammar...
#7529
pmc213,
I use a large Kimborough servo saver and trim the outer edge, so that it does not hit the chassis. I mount the ball studs in the bottom row of holes and this negates the bump steer. A dremel will bring this down to size quickly.
The other way is to use a droop screw in the knuckle and then place washers to raise the height and then screw on a tamiya ball stud. Make sure you use blue loctite. I will post some pictures tomorrow.
The other option is to just use the standard mini servo saver and then place a second servo clip around the original servo saver to hold it together. The servo spring is taken from the Tamiya high torque servo saver set.
regards,
Calvin.
I use a large Kimborough servo saver and trim the outer edge, so that it does not hit the chassis. I mount the ball studs in the bottom row of holes and this negates the bump steer. A dremel will bring this down to size quickly.
The other way is to use a droop screw in the knuckle and then place washers to raise the height and then screw on a tamiya ball stud. Make sure you use blue loctite. I will post some pictures tomorrow.
The other option is to just use the standard mini servo saver and then place a second servo clip around the original servo saver to hold it together. The servo spring is taken from the Tamiya high torque servo saver set.
regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 10-20-2008 at 04:49 AM.



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