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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 10-21-2008, 11:00 AM
  #7546  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
I know of a lot of racers who are still using the 3003 servo's in their Mini's.
Yup, I got a box of new 3003 servos for free a while back, and I can't even bring myself to use them. They're just way too slow for my liking.

I think for the meantime I'll have to stick with my Spektrum (JR) high torque metal geared servo, and use a Kimbrough large servo saver on it. I redrill the savers to add a little more throw, which in turn adds a little speed.

Jim
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan
Doesn't the M03M already come with hub bearings?
You don't extras?
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:26 PM
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I too use the Fut low profile servo in my M04. Again only reason is because i had it left over from my TC days. Jim, best bang for buck for me, has always been the Hitec 625MG. Fast enough, and built very tough and very cheap. I have about 8 of them in different cars, and they are a great servo. They also centre very well. But damn, that Fut low profile is such a nice servo lol.

Suna, you need one set lol. Keep em clean and they will last a lifetime. Ive tried other high end brands, and the little tamiya steel ones are still just as good as anything else you can find. I bought a set from PM (take your manual with you), clean them out with motor spray, and run them. Some use a little high speed oil (I used to use Elf high speed oil) but considering i have some bearings which are 6-7 years old, with no oil in them, as long as you keep them clean, they will run forever.

As for weight, my M04 must weigh a tonne. I have a fan glued to the battery holder directed at the motor opening, Im using the std Tamiya esc which weighs a bit, I run the big foam bumper, and I also added a driver from a Hornet kit Doesnt seem to slow it down any
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:06 PM
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axle182 - I agree with you, the Hitec 625 is a very good, reliable, and durable servo for a variety of cars. I've use in my mini, TC, and 1/10 truck.
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Old 10-21-2008, 02:02 PM
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I've got a Hitec HS225MG that I use in my M04. I wish I could use it in my M03, though. It's tiny and torquey! I should try to figure out how to make an adaptor for it.

Jim
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Old 10-21-2008, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by edwintklee
caltek, 101, guys,

thanks for the weight inputs, i guess i will try to make 1500g to start with, but at 1500g running bl its not a problem, but what if you are running sliver cans or sport tunes, as compare to a lighter car, the speed would be big different??

sorry for my newbie question, i was fed up with this car so many times and wanted to sell if off, but its not sold until today, and its getting more attention than my other R/C....
lee,

from my limited experience, adding weight to a LiPo powered car (in a mini) will be a great disadvantage as you will be out of reach to chase the NiMh guys (especially on the straight)...all other things equal. But the downside is, as rightly pointed by many, the problem of traction roll..thats the challenging part...with a LiPo ur style of driving needs some fine adjustment...

never give up... keep on working finding the right setup for your car... i am still finding the sweet spot (tuning wise) for my car...with various selection of tires... altho' with some frustrations along the way (coupled with my so so driving), m-chassis never seem to fade away and with my two other buddies (also running on LiPo) we had lots of fun bashing the car... plus, on the maintenance side, LiPo is a no brainer thingy... we have had bad bad experiences with NiMh (even with proper maintenance etc)... but then again, its history...

*you might want to try foam tire upfront with a 40 shore rating... tire needs to be trimmed down a bit for that rollout...*

we'll see you in a months time for the Melaka race...
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Old 10-21-2008, 07:42 PM
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A lipo powered car is up to 250g lighter than a Nimh. You have to add the weight back or your Mini will fall over. It is that simple. You do not have to add all the 250g back but you need to add enough to make the Mini predictable and not roll over
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:40 PM
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Have you guys seen the weights that are designed sort of like outriggers for when you switch to lipo? They're flat weights that get mounted below the ends of the battery that stick out, real close to the ground. Pretty smart idea I think. Even smarter than adding weight to the battery or inside the chassis.

Jim
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MTX3-B
we'll see you in a months time for the Melaka race...
What we would like to see from lee is to pratice more and his hand instead of putting too much attention to the kit.

Hope it helps

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Old 10-21-2008, 10:13 PM
  #7555  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Have you guys seen the weights that are designed sort of like outriggers for when you switch to lipo? They're flat weights that get mounted below the ends of the battery that stick out, real close to the ground. Pretty smart idea I think. Even smarter than adding weight to the battery or inside the chassis.

Jim

Got a link?
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Old 10-21-2008, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fatboy
What we would like to see from lee is to pratice more and his hand instead of putting too much attention to the kit.

Hope it helps

I guess thats probably true... the thing is...Lee is (still?) a GP and EP touring driver... he is carrying over the good old habits of perfecting the car setup etc...perfectionist!
N knowing mini, it has to be driven delicately...
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Old 10-21-2008, 11:36 PM
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We have found that using the BL HobbyWing/Ezyrun 3000KV system there is no difference in top end from a NiMH car to a Lipo powered car.

I use both NiMH,(MO3L with 4200 NiMH 1540 gms) and Yeah Racing Lipo,(Lipo with lead ballast added total weight 1501 gms) to be good for my driving style.

I have only used the Lipo and NiMH with a sport tuned car, at one racing event on carpet and my opinion was that the NiMH had more punch from the start and higher speed. I did not really compare the lap times as at the time it was the finals and I was only concerned with finishing results.

The heavier weight seems to make the mini more planted on the track and less prone to wheel spin, when you grab a hand full of throttle.

edwintklee,

We only run sport tuned motors in our Mini's or the BL system when allowed. I am not that happy with the sport tuned motors now days due to the performance differences and there tendancies to die when you make the finals. I have had two die in one weekend's worth of racing. Leaving me to borrow a motor to finish the event.

So I fully support the current push within eastern australia to get the BL system approved for mini racing.

Not sure what ride height you are running, however the front of my Mini is at 3/4mm and the rear at 5/6mm Ride height.

I use a Futaba S3151 in one Mini and a Futaba S3050 in the other. Both are fitted with large Kimborough Servo savers trimmed down.

Later

Calvin.
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:13 AM
  #7558  
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Default MINI SERVO SAVER and KNUCKLE POST

Here are the photo's of that I said I would post. These are of the knuckle post using a droop screw, spacer and teflon ball stud. The servo saver is the Kimborough large servo saver cut down and using the bottom outside holes reamed out to accept the ball studs.

Steering tie rods adjusted to run 0.5 degree toe out.

CYA's

Calvin.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01427.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01428.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01430.jpg  
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:20 AM
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Default LIPO Battery and Lead Ballast

Here is the method I and a couple of others are using with the Yeah Racing Lipo's. This keeps the weight in the same place as the NiMH's.

The same can be done with the Orion 3200's however when you add the lead the max weight is only 132gms compared to the 150 gms used with the Yeah Racing packs. These lead strips are fully removable and can be transfered from car to car. Especially seeing most of us die hard Mini Racers have more than one Mini. I also use battery retaining straps on my Mini to prevent the dreaded battery come out the side of the car caper, which also has an adverse effect on car handling.

I also place 60 gms of lead ballast in the MO3L chassis extension, closest to the battery slot.

I do not place extra ballast on the ends of the battery retainers as I believe this upsets the balance of the car. You have more weight out wide that will affect the cars handling.

My two bob's worth.

Later

Calvin.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01431.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01434.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01435.jpg  

Last edited by caltek1; 10-22-2008 at 02:27 AM. Reason: xtra text
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MTX3-B
lee,

from my limited experience, adding weight to a LiPo powered car (in a mini) will be a great disadvantage as you will be out of reach to chase the NiMh guys (especially on the straight)...all other things equal. But the downside is, as rightly pointed by many, the problem of traction roll..thats the challenging part...with a LiPo ur style of driving needs some fine adjustment...

never give up... keep on working finding the right setup for your car... i am still finding the sweet spot (tuning wise) for my car...with various selection of tires... altho' with some frustrations along the way (coupled with my so so driving), m-chassis never seem to fade away and with my two other buddies (also running on LiPo) we had lots of fun bashing the car... plus, on the maintenance side, LiPo is a no brainer thingy... we have had bad bad experiences with NiMh (even with proper maintenance etc)... but then again, its history...

*you might want to try foam tire upfront with a 40 shore rating... tire needs to be trimmed down a bit for that rollout...*

we'll see you in a months time for the Melaka race...

let me know when you come for practise rounds...
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