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Old 08-11-2008 | 11:13 AM
  #226  
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I have a slight problem...

The R3 is shimmed for 16% nitro and needs .1mm shim to run 20%.

Problem:

I can't find the shims or 16% nitro...

I checked a few websites but either they didn't have it, or the listing was wrong. anybody have some info they can pass on so I can get this motor started?
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Old 08-11-2008 | 11:42 AM
  #227  
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Any Nova .12 shim should work.
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Old 08-11-2008 | 09:59 PM
  #228  
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Quick question guys.

What plug comes standard with the R3? Is it #6

Is it exactly the same as a Novarossi #6 plug?

What is the difference between the 2611 pipe kit and 2604 pipe kit?

Thanks

Michael.
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Old 08-11-2008 | 10:53 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by wingracer
Any Nova .12 shim should work.
..and any Picco .12 shim as well.
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Old 08-12-2008 | 04:38 AM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by Novarossi
Quick question guys.

What plug comes standard with the R3? Is it #6

Is it exactly the same as a Novarossi #6 plug?

What is the difference between the 2611 pipe kit and 2604 pipe kit?

Thanks

Michael.
Michael,
The R3 comes with a #6 turbo plug. I would choose one brand plug and stick with it. We have found varying temps of the same # plug from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The 2611 pipe will shift the torque band lower in the power range and give slightly more fuel economy. The 2604 is what most of us run and has a bit more overall power. It comes with a short manifold and mid-top end is high. You can always swap out manifolds to slighly shift the power band also.
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Old 08-18-2008 | 01:13 AM
  #231  
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I see rb have basically stopped the production on the matrix .12 engine....I am going to be continuing with rb with their r3. I see the new r3 rc has been released? From my guessing obviously this is the better choice over the older r3 but I am curious to know what rb have done to make the r3 better? ie acceleration, speed, fuel consumption?

Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2008 | 08:14 AM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by Rc_Boy89
I see rb have basically stopped the production on the matrix .12 engine....I am going to be continuing with rb with their r3. I see the new r3 rc has been released? From my guessing obviously this is the better choice over the older r3 but I am curious to know what rb have done to make the r3 better? ie acceleration, speed, fuel consumption?

Thanks.

RC_Boy,
Yes, production was stopped awhile ago on the Matrix .12
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the R3, it performs very well, has lots of power and is excellent on fuel economy.
The R3RC was produced to offer racers a full blown modified engine for competition or just want more power. The crank now has a single fluted crankshaft which is about 15% lighter which means higher RPM and faster spool up. Also, rear ceramic bearing and an aluminum venturi which helps with air flow into the carburator.
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Old 08-18-2008 | 10:05 AM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
RC_Boy,
Yes, production was stopped awhile ago on the Matrix .12
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the R3, it performs very well, has lots of power and is excellent on fuel economy.
The R3RC was produced to offer racers a full blown modified engine for competition or just want more power. The crank now has a single fluted crankshaft which is about 15% lighter which means higher RPM and faster spool up. Also, rear ceramic bearing and an aluminum venturi which helps with air flow into the carburator.
RC_Boy,

I bought the R3RC when it was first released based off of some back and forth with Jamie. I got the opportunity to watch Jamie drive one this weekend and all I could say was WOW!!! I thought it was modified!! Definitely worth the money. Now after watching Jamie blaze the track this weekend, a few of my buddies are trying to buy mine from me.
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Old 08-19-2008 | 05:33 AM
  #234  
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I got the .1mm shims for the motor to use 20% nitro. I took off the head, removed the combustion chamber, and discovered there weren't any shims in there. I assume the sleeve had the shim spaced built into the head so I put the shim under the combustion chamber and put it all back together.

Did I do this right??? I'm not going to fire it up until for another week but I wanted to check with you RB guys before I do so.
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Old 08-19-2008 | 06:12 AM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid
I got the .1mm shims for the motor to use 20% nitro. I took off the head, removed the combustion chamber, and discovered there weren't any shims in there. I assume the sleeve had the shim spaced built into the head so I put the shim under the combustion chamber and put it all back together.

Did I do this right??? I'm not going to fire it up until for another week but I wanted to check with you RB guys before I do so.
The stock 0.3mm shim is silver and looks like it is actually a part of the head button. Use a hobby knife to lift it away from the button to see.
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Old 08-19-2008 | 06:12 AM
  #236  
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Are you sure there was no shim? Look closely, the thick shim is aluminum and often sticks to the head so it looks like there is no shim.

If there really are no shims you need to get some more.
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Old 08-19-2008 | 06:13 AM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by teamgp
The stock 0.3mm shim is silver and looks like it is actually a part of the head button. Use a hobby knife to lift it away from the button to see.
Haha You just beat me to it.
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Old 08-19-2008 | 06:31 AM
  #238  
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Originally Posted by teamgp
The stock 0.3mm shim is silver and looks like it is actually a part of the head button. Use a hobby knife to lift it away from the button to see.
Ok, I was looking for a brass colored shim, so I probably overlooked it. I lifted up the button and didn't check if something was stuck. I don't want to go back in because the head screws are flathead and are a pain to get out. I don't the right flathead in my toolbox for that. I want to replace those flatheads with some hex, anybody know how long those screws are? I'm thinking 3x12's.
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Old 08-19-2008 | 10:38 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid
Ok, I was looking for a brass colored shim, so I probably overlooked it. I lifted up the button and didn't check if something was stuck. I don't want to go back in because the head screws are flathead and are a pain to get out. I don't the right flathead in my toolbox for that. I want to replace those flatheads with some hex, anybody know how long those screws are? I'm thinking 3x12's.
I use 3 x 15 hex screws. Works perfect, and never strips.
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Old 08-21-2008 | 08:15 AM
  #240  
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Jamie, you have a PM.
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