Um actually run 4 mm front and 3 mm rear and no you have to put the car on blocks then use gauge

Congrats Corally with another couple of wins on the weekend at the Vic State Titles.

Corally won modified and also come 7th in the A main, Also Corally won 19 turn from Aidan Kelly, Congrats.

Hi Simon,

If you were running a PHI on carpet, which version would you recommend (ie: US or Euro) and why ??

Also, if you had the choice, which tire compound would be most practical on the carpet track (ie: foam or rubber) and why ??

Thanks in advance

Hi if i was running rubber i think i would probably stay with the EU version, But if the race was on foam i would deffinatly go the US version so that you get all the thicker carbon fibre parts.

Woohoo... well i had better update the website .. again

lol AGAIN hahahah

Simon,
Thanks for the reply.
Now a slight variation on the same question.

If I wanted to get the most versatile chassis which would be best.
That is, if I purchased the US version could I run foam on carpet AND rubber on asphalt?
Similar question for the EU version.

Also, one of the tracks is a new carpet track, and the club has not decided the final tire rules (ie: rubber or foam - although it appears as though the informal feedback favours rubber). Will the US version handle either tire, on carpet?

Or would I have to hang the expense and get one of each

Thanks in advance

I might answer this one...

From what you have explanied here's how i would do it.
Purchase the standard EU rubber version. This will work fine on asphalt and carpet with rubber tyres. The only item you would need to purchase separately is a spool # 79156, especialy when running hotter modified motors.

IF/WHEN you would run on capet with Foam i would purchase the following:

# 79690 Complete Differential Set **Must use**
# 79672 Diff Pulley **Must USE**
# 79828 Adjustable Front Chassis Stiffner **More of a tuning option**
# 79286 Left 6 Degree Front Caster Block **Tuning Option**
# 79287 Right 6 Degree Caster Block **Tuning Option**

The Diff is a must with carpet and foam, makes the car much easier to drive and you can use brakes as you please.
The stiffner is used so that you do not have to purchase a whole 3.0mm chassis, using this and the rear brace (included in kit) will make the car stiff enough to use on carpet.
The C hubs are a good option with foams as they aid in settling the car down while still maintaning steering. This would be the last option i would buy.

This way you can have the best of both worlds without having two separate cars.

Let us know if you have any more questions.

...Ari

Thanks.
I'm asuming the 79655 (mentioned in manual) is similar to the 79156

The RDX PHI manual states the following:
Spool (#79655) is like a fully locked diff but has no moving parts. It's super-solid with no adjustments. Because there's no differential action at all, a lot of speed is scrubbed off in corners. A spool at the front will make the car very hard to turn in. But gives stability under acceleration and deceleration. A spool at the rear will give a lot of steering.

So, the intent (especially for modified) is to wash off the high speed entering the corner

Hi Ari .... just wondering if adding kick up to the front (by adjusting front couplers) will achieve a similer effect to using the 6 degree C hubs ?

Would appreciate your comments.

Cheers

Alan

Both numbers you have quoted are spools 55 is the delrin version 56 is the alloy but requires a pulley (available separateley).

Spools are mainly used in mod, can be used in stock as well, makes the car much easier to drive either way.

...Ari

Yes and no... Yes your car will have more caster when adding kickup but by raising the arm you change the roll centre at the same time.

Changing the C-Hub and leaving the arm flat will keep the aggressive nature of steering while giving you more exit turn due to the extra caster. This is the way all carpet racers do it.

...Ari

While technically you are correct in that adding kick up will increase the castor by the same factor (eg 1.6 deg kickup will add 1.6 deg castor) you effect the rear to front weight transfer in doing so. Ultimately you end up compromising your set up to achieve more castor.


Hope that makes sense?

Thanks guys ... makes sense to use 6deg hubs instead of the kick up, so as not to alter other set up characteristics and potentially 'open a can of worms'.

Cheers Alan

Just dropped in; but, ended up reading the whole thread.

Nice thread you guys.