If efficiency is what your looking for than you should be a lot higher than 11.1 volts right? 36 and 48 volt are becoming the norm in the Industrial Electric vehicle industry. In fact if the voltage was currently at 11.1 or 18, wouldn't this topic come up about going to 36v or 48v? What do you feel the limit should be? How efficient does a setup need to really be?

not need to change the actual racing

only run all voltage on same race real open


easy Novak make an 4.5T other make 3.5T ridiculous

who make 1T motor to make good effecient motor you need more Turn not lower

30T X 15A = 4.5T X 100A

I use 10S lipos and 10S A123 with my 1/8 scale truck. I'm also having some ESC being built especifically for HV 1/8 scale buggy and truggy use. I have designed chassis as well that will be for HV use as well. I only said 11.1V for 1/10th scale, but I'm using 4S now in my 1/10 truggy and I'm having a blast. I have also designed 2 chassis for 1/10 scale that will be for lipos only. One will use the 2200 to 2500mAh packs and the other is for the longer (up to 150mm length) packs. When I get the chassis here with me I'll post pictures.

The current setups have reached a point in which faster is not better. However, higher voltage will let you run more effeciently so that you can get longer run times w/ the same power.

the goal is not to run faster

on track i make better lap time with my 10.5t than my 8.5

and better in 6.4V

in this moment i work to pass my xxx4 to 19.2V 6 cell lifepo4 SC 1000mah

with a modified lrp to 20T with a fiegao rotor for very high drag break and low KV motor +- 2000

I ran my 1/8 scale truck today. My set is: BPP truggy, Schulze 40.160, Neu 1521/1Y, 2 5S 4600mAh TP (In Parallel) and 65/17 (Very conservative, but still fast). I used my DPR-150 to get the data. It shows a 154.45A max, but I'm not sure where that came from. It shows a max of 72A and 10A average and I only used 2700mAh out of 9200.

Edit: If I wanted ballistic speed all I had to do is switch from parallel to series and the 1521/1Y would be spinning at around 58K rpm.

I believe that this is the direction the hobby is headed. It just takes time for people and manufacturers to accept change. Once the general public understands the benefits of the higher voltage setups it will probably happen at an accelerated rate.
I know people that are still fighting the brushless/lipo change. I don't understand why. But they are.

You dropped the f-bomb !!! You should be recieving a infraction.....

Na-ah Spock did....

I'll put my .02 in on this, I have done a project right in this neighborhood. I have an associated RC10GT, that i converted to electric. I built it for hi-V low mah battery packs, I would say its a sucess. I can run 40 minutes on 18.5v 2500 flightpower pack, Geared at about 35mph. The setup is a quark 80 esc/lehner basic 1200xl, the forementioned 5s 2500 lipo (Flightpower25c). Power wise, it could flip, If i tightened the slipper. Gearing wise i have it set at 20/66 with 32Pgears. I can run it for 45 minutes and nothing is hot, Barely above ambient. I have run this in all seasons ( real hot this last year in GA) and no problems. I wouldn't have no trouble running with any 2s setup, power, speed or runtime. It only pulls 40 amps peak, I could have saved a bit of money and got a quark 65 if i knew that. The thought has crossed my mind to try a 33 amp quark or mamba 25 on this truck, just haven't got around to it.
Below is a couple pics of my setup, I got eagletree on it, but not at my computer at this time. Will try to get them up later

I seem to remember pro racers going down to 5 cells in their cars at the worlds....due to excess power. I like spinnin' wheels and wheelies just as much as the next guy but if you want more speed, just put in a hotter motor. I wouldn't overwork my electronic internals by throwing excessive voltage at it.

Great conversion there. As most of you know me, I like HV. I've been trying my best to make people realize the advantages and in most forums I go to, I try to add something. Here in rctech, I have actually mentioned this to Tekin in the 1/8 scale brushless thread. In rcgroups I have asked Castle Creation for one. In rc-monster.com/forum is where I go into much more details on HV and even set up a thread for people to vote for either a LV or HV. With ne MOSFET technology that's available now, MFGs can make a nice 200A 12-14S controller that will work with anything from 3S-14S. One example is the Castle HV110. It uses a 60V 12A MOSFET and I know MOSFETs that have the same 60V rating, but the AMPs are 30A. Now if the HV110 would use this different MOSFET, it would have almost 3 times the current rating. If you guys want more details please go here: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=9183&page=14. It starts at post #205 and gets real good after that.

Voltage doesn't make your electronics work harder the AMPs do. The more AMP from the hotter motor will shorten the life of your electronic and in most cases fry a controller. MOSFETs can handle higher voltage, but not higher AMPs.

Its not overworking them, its working in the voltage powerband of the motor. Look at it like a 2 stroke engine, you got to find the right pipe to run efficient. Brushless don't just all run on 7v and we over run it, Motors are built for a particular voltage in mind. My lehner basic xl 1200, runs 1200kv (rpm/v) its rated for 50,000 rpm's (I think), I am running it at 22,200 RPM's, I am not overdriving it. Now if i were to do say, 12s lipo (44.4v), thats a different story. Thats 53,280 RPM's, and thats overdriving that motor. Right now, I'm at less than half the rated max RPM of this motor.
Like said above, Not all of us running high voltage are going after Nic Case (though it would be fun) , Most of us are trying to lower the cost of electric RC. With low Voltage the electronics have to work, With high Voltage and proper gearing, electronics are cooler and used less and therefore last longer. Look at the guys that can pass 1,000,000 volts through their bodies, they can do it because the voltage is not the killer, the amperage is. They do it at 3 to 5 mA, lets crank it up to 100 amps and see what happens, they'd cook. same goes for your electronics