Jimmy Fukuyama

You may want to consider loosening up your rear diff and set your drag brakes down to 20%. Also set the brakes on your transmitter lower to compensate this. It happens and there is nothing wrong. One ways are meant to be braked on a squared straigh while you can still utilize the drag brakes on the motor for turns by letting off the throttle. Another factor you may consider is the gear it with a little higher torque so the motor drag braking is more subtle. Good luck and happy racing!

Jimmy

Elk666

Hi Jimmy, thanks for your input, i will definatly try your suggestions b4 changing to a ball diff, this was my first experience with a 1way, after a few packs i started to get the hang of not touching the brakes at all but would've wanted to use them.
i was geared 87/24 final 7.70, how do i go about to get more torque? higher spur?
thanks

Jimmy Fukuyama

What motor are you running? Actually 7.70 ratio is good if not a little on the high torque/low rpm side. You should be alright with that if your track is techincal or you can go a little lower in ratio say somewhere inbetween 7.20 to 7.60. One thing about one-ways is that it does take a little practicing to get it going correctly and timing yourself on turns so you don't apply brakes. I've known some PRO drivers who will actually apply a small degree of brakes in a fraction of the second just before heading into turns. I do as well but with the ABS set on to pump as I lightly brake in increments. It's not easy to do for the average so focus on just letting off the throttle and practice some more for the time being. You'll get the hang of it in a few tries.

Jimmy

Neil Rabara

There's a guy here at Socal Raceway that anodized the bulkheads red! Looks different than blue or purple. I know what you guys are thinking, Surikarn edition copy. The guy had it done months ago, long before the Surikarn edition Evo3 was announced.

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

I am putting together the Raycer kit and I have a problem. It appears as though they preassembled one of the diffs incorrectly. The screw will not go all the way in so it looks like they put the wrong washer in first....my problem is that I dont have a tool that will get that damn clip out....any suggestions?

Carbon_Fibre3

i had to pull apart my diff at the track aswell, i used a lil poker tool that i have made up..

it is just a dodgy wrench that i have had grinded down.. to a point.. with it u can pick the circlip out ... 2 e z

pucho

Joneser: I clamped my diff half with a vice grip and use two picks (got them at the hardware store in a set of four) to push the clip together and pry it out.

Elk666

hey Jimmy, when i tried it yesterday i had a monster stock, but running with a novak BL for a few weeks, now the stock motor seemed way too slow, i'm going to put a 14 turn in my raycer for the next run, does it matter in any way i try to setup my car for the 1way?
thanks

ps. 1 more thing to ask: right now my center 1way is locked, should i loosen it when running a front 1way?

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys,

I have one potentila problem with my evo2/T1R. Its got a nasty tweak in it and lets assume that all te usual things have been checked (shock length, chassis balance, bent hingepins, etc...).

I put my car on the set-up board beause it seems to steer more one-way than the other-even though it makes perfect right and left circles (EPA). Yup-it is way out. The right front/left rear raises a good 1/8" before the other tire does. Not good!! The only way to cure it is to crank down on the shock collars-which will give me neven ride heights.

Anybody checkd there tweak on there T1R's

Ray

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

rayhuang, I have run my T1R for three weeks now and have not noticed any tweak one way or the other. You are running foam correct, if so have you checked the tire size L/R, Fr/Rr? If you take the upper deck off does the car go back flat or does it stay tweaked? Has your chassis ever gotten hot?

milf

The best way to un tweek your chassis, is to take the upper deck off, and take both shock tower's off, let it settle for a day or two. And making sure all shocks lenght is the same with each other. When putting it back together, make sure the you're on a flat surface when putting it together, and screwing the screw in opposite of each other or in criss cross. After putting it together do the droops, ( and making sure the arms are free, no bindings). Then you should have a untweek chassis. Hope this helps.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

The Teacher and milf-Thanks for the info. I'l do what I can to check it out and settle the chassis down before tomorrow nights practice.

Neil Rabara

All molded chassis' are subject to getting tweaked, even sitting on the shelf at your LHS. Temp is a big issue, especially with the T1R's plastic tub. If you feel that the tub is permanently tweaked, use the upper brace to un-tweak it. If the tub is beyond that, replace it. It's pointless to keep un-tweaking a tub that is like that, you may be setting up yourself for a fall. Everyone knows that after every run, regardless if it is practice or racing, you need to un-tweak the car.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

There is one molded chassis that is umtweakable.... but it won't work with any X-Ray....LOL

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pucho

rayhuang: I had a similar problem I just took the car and twisted it in the oposite direction an VIOLA! Not really the way you should do it but I was in a hurry.