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Old 07-17-2007, 08:37 PM
  #721  
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Moving the links will cause a change in ackerman.You can also cause akerman loss. The single pivot creates a greater gain at the end of the curve.A good starting point to shoot for seem to be 3degrees less for the outer wheel if the inner wheel is at 20 degrees ..always was what i tried to get my car to.
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Old 07-18-2007, 05:19 PM
  #722  
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Anyone have any luck using the 4800 lipo pack from team orion? I have the 3200 lipo and thats already a tight fit on the rear bulkhead. Would like it to get one or maybe end up using it in my offroad truck
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Old 07-18-2007, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by AARON YOUNG
Moving the links will cause a change in ackerman.You can also cause akerman loss. The single pivot creates a greater gain at the end of the curve.A good starting point to shoot for seem to be 3degrees less for the outer wheel if the inner wheel is at 20 degrees ..always was what i tried to get my car to.

Hey stranger, how do make this measurement?
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Old 07-19-2007, 02:26 AM
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Hi guys, need some advice on the RDX Phi.

Here goes. I will be running on long asphalt with tight hairpins. Traction is average.

Can the US carpet version be used to run on asphalt?
(like the idea of thicker chassis). I am asking cause I prefer a frt & rr ball diff set up.
Does either UK & US kit come with front & rear sway bar kit?

Here is the list I am thinking I should get:
UK Spec kit.
Motor Guard mount w/ fan.
Sway bar sets 1.6mm & 1.3mm.
Spool kit & Ball diff kit.
Spare arms and knuckles.

What do you guys think? Is there anything else I need to add?

Last item, has anyone used the graphite chassis stiffening upgrade kit (part#79828)

Thanks is advance guys.
Cheers.
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Old 07-21-2007, 01:02 PM
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Just dropping in on the lates news !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CORALLY RDX PHI US SPEC INSTOCK AT WWW.TEAMMAXIMUS.COM
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Old 07-24-2007, 01:28 AM
  #726  
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Originally Posted by 29TC
Hi guys, need some advice on the RDX Phi.

Here goes. I will be running on long asphalt with tight hairpins. Traction is average.

Can the US carpet version be used to run on asphalt?
(like the idea of thicker chassis). I am asking cause I prefer a frt & rr ball diff set up.
Does either UK & US kit come with front & rear sway bar kit?

Here is the list I am thinking I should get:
UK Spec kit.
Motor Guard mount w/ fan.
Sway bar sets 1.6mm & 1.3mm.
Spool kit & Ball diff kit.
Spare arms and knuckles.

What do you guys think? Is there anything else I need to add?

Last item, has anyone used the graphite chassis stiffening upgrade kit (part#79828)

Thanks is advance guys.
Cheers.
i think the uk one comes with sway bars not real sure the us spec doesn't come with any sway bars with the kit and as far as spares goes you might won't to add some of the white shims that go on the arm to adjust wheelbase just in case one where to get lost or something.
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Old 07-24-2007, 03:28 AM
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Received my PHI UK version today.
Package seems too simple for such a high end kit. Was expecting something like an xray kit.

Was admiring the pre-built chassis and suddenly, cut my fingers from the loose grahite splinters. Was'up with that? The chassis itself is very dusty and the edges are damn sharp.

Hmm, QC check please.

Overall, looking very cool and extremely light. But not happy with my finger cut.
Cheers.
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Old 07-24-2007, 05:45 AM
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Well, No sway bar kit included-bummer.

Anyways, my kit comes with pre-assembled rear diff.
Do I need to disassemble and lube the balls?

Still pissed I cut my finger.
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:58 AM
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The diffs come pre-built with lube already in them.
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Old 07-24-2007, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 29TC
Well, No sway bar kit included-bummer.

Anyways, my kit comes with pre-assembled rear diff.
Do I need to disassemble and lube the balls?

Still pissed I cut my finger.
The diff had to be totally built including the Bl###dly thrust bearing in the Version sent to Australia . also no sway bays and plastic/ fibre front Hubs.

Chassis also needed sanding
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Swamp Rat
The diff had to be totally built including the Bl###dly thrust bearing in the Version sent to Australia . also no sway bays and plastic/ fibre front Hubs.

Chassis also needed sanding
I agree with you on the thrust bearing. Worst diffs I ever had to build. That was by far the longest part of the build too! I am NOT looking forward to rebuilding them!!!! I had to do a ton of sanding/dremeling to my chassis and bulkhead to get my 4200's in as well. Car is great when all is said and done though
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:06 PM
  #732  
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Sorry it took so long to get back to you rigg. Im in bootcamp now.I use the setup gauges for the toe and turn the wheel left to 20 degrees on the inner wheel and check the difference on the outer wheel.
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:33 PM
  #733  
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Originally Posted by AARON YOUNG
Sorry it took so long to get back to you rigg. Im in bootcamp now.I use the setup gauges for the toe and turn the wheel left to 20 degrees on the inner wheel and check the difference on the outer wheel.
Do you even REMEMBER how to drive an R/C car?????

MIA: Aaron Young aka: sockpuppet
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:40 PM
  #734  
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Originally Posted by Advil
Do you even REMEMBER how to drive an R/C car?????

MIA: Aaron Young aka: sockpuppet
A-YO knows...
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:49 PM
  #735  
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I will be at speedworld saturday night if you want some!.I could beat you with 3 wheels.Big rigg hit me up if you have any questions.
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