Spektrum
#2071
Originally Posted by RCGaryK
I have seen guys run caps on Keyence ESC's. I've even seen guys add power caps to older Tekin G12cIII's that were running 27mhz equipment. Again, it's to smooth things out and to provide more punch. A side benefit of running the power cap is it does help prevent the BEC output from dropping too low in high current drain situations, like when you accelerate. I've been running multiple power caps on ESC's since I first started running the GM V12WXC like 4 years ago, then with the VFS2000, onto the VFS1, QC2, GTX, and GTB. It's not that you have to run a power cap if you run Spektrum. It's a feel thing and I personally prefer running power caps on my equipment because I like the throttle delivery and acceleration with them versus without. Think of it as just another tuning aid.
#2072
Tech Champion

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
I'd still rather not have one...I can do much better driving a car with less punch and setting up the corners better then I can with more punch...even so I never could tell the difference. I could tell a difference with ESC fequencies and I always preferred the ESCs with the higher frequency even though it was less punch. I'm a bit more used to driving under conditions where traction is less then ideal so punch in our case usually just gets you into trouble faster. Often I find myself carrying much more speed into a corner then my counterparts and able to carry it fine...but it throws off the pace when they aren't expecting it. I think often they rely too much on punch to get them out of a corner and less on taking the right line which is much more important in pan car racing.
#2073
RcBuddha - For 5 or 6 cell Sedan racing there is no need for a cap on the motor or receiver when running a Keyence speedo and Spektrum.
If you run 1/12th (4 cell) stock you dont need a cap but if you are a fast 19T driver you will need a cap to keep the Spektrum receiver from fail safeing due to too low a voltage late in a run.
If you run 1/12th Mod I would run a receiver pack as you are pretty much always near dumping late in a run and the receiver cap can only do so much.
These are pretty much the same rules for any speedo and normal FM receivers. The Spektrum Pro system is only slighty more sensitve to low voltage than FM receivers
If you run 1/12th (4 cell) stock you dont need a cap but if you are a fast 19T driver you will need a cap to keep the Spektrum receiver from fail safeing due to too low a voltage late in a run.
If you run 1/12th Mod I would run a receiver pack as you are pretty much always near dumping late in a run and the receiver cap can only do so much.
These are pretty much the same rules for any speedo and normal FM receivers. The Spektrum Pro system is only slighty more sensitve to low voltage than FM receivers
#2076
Tech Champion

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
Originally Posted by RCGaryK
You're fine with running a bit higher voltage. The Receiver will regulate the voltage sent to the servos.
"What is the voltage range of the SR3000 receiver and can I use a 2-cell Li-Po pack direct?
The receiver can handle up to 9.6 volts. The real limitations are the servos. Some servos are capable of operating at higher voltages while others are not. Check with the servo manufacturer that you're using for specific details."
If the reciever regulates the voltage then the servos shouldn't be an issue.
#2077
Tech Champion

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
Does anyone have a pic of how the antenna wire in the module is supposed to be routed? I'm beginning to suspect this is where I'm having glitching issues. Running the reciever off the 4cell main battery pack did not solve the problem.
Also I noticed there are 2 spots on the pc board where the antenna can plug into...what's the deal with the 2nd spot?
Also I noticed there are 2 spots on the pc board where the antenna can plug into...what's the deal with the 2nd spot?
#2078
Just spoke to one of our engineers and I was wrong about the voltage regulator. Now I did discuss your situation with him and a few things that he mentioned:
If I understand how you were wiring things with the 4-cell pack and all, you were connecting your main battery pack to both the main power leads and to the battery input of your receiver, is this correct? If so, you are risking possible damage to the transistor on your ESC. You can't back-feed voltage into the Receiver like this without removing the red wire from your ESC plug harness.
I know we have a photo of how the antenna lead should be routed in the module. I have a meeting to run to in a minute but I'll try to post something in a bit. Just to tell you what it look like, the lead should go around the outside of the PCB, not over it.
Question, is this a Pro Series Module or an Original Series Module?
If I understand how you were wiring things with the 4-cell pack and all, you were connecting your main battery pack to both the main power leads and to the battery input of your receiver, is this correct? If so, you are risking possible damage to the transistor on your ESC. You can't back-feed voltage into the Receiver like this without removing the red wire from your ESC plug harness.
I know we have a photo of how the antenna lead should be routed in the module. I have a meeting to run to in a minute but I'll try to post something in a bit. Just to tell you what it look like, the lead should go around the outside of the PCB, not over it.
Question, is this a Pro Series Module or an Original Series Module?
#2083
Originally Posted by Boomer
wait, there are bearings in the Spektrum Receivers now?


I'm so clever sometimesActually, Tres was lost, so I am trying to tell him where to go so he gets his bearing again!
Oh, I'm on a roll.
#2084
Tech Champion

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
Thanks for the pic! My antenna was definately wired wrong then as it was faced the other way and wrapped around the top of the board. Hopefully this takes care of the issue.
As for powering the RX this way...From what I've been reading in the 1/12th forum most current ESCs are made to detect an input voltage through the servo harness and automatically turn on. So you only turn on the power from the reciever pack. If you turn both on you risk frying something. If you remove the power wire from the harness you have to turn on both the RX pack and the ESC. To ensure this I removed the switch from the ESC. The ESC and reciever seems to have ran just fine this way except for the glitching which I am fairly convinced is an issue with the module now. If this antenna re-route fixes the problem I'll be able to run everything normally.
It's an original series module. I have a couple of regular series recievers and a mini pro reciever. Currently I'm running the mini pro reciever in my 1/12th scale.
As for powering the RX this way...From what I've been reading in the 1/12th forum most current ESCs are made to detect an input voltage through the servo harness and automatically turn on. So you only turn on the power from the reciever pack. If you turn both on you risk frying something. If you remove the power wire from the harness you have to turn on both the RX pack and the ESC. To ensure this I removed the switch from the ESC. The ESC and reciever seems to have ran just fine this way except for the glitching which I am fairly convinced is an issue with the module now. If this antenna re-route fixes the problem I'll be able to run everything normally.
It's an original series module. I have a couple of regular series recievers and a mini pro reciever. Currently I'm running the mini pro reciever in my 1/12th scale.


