19T Motor Forum
11-18-2006, 11:34 AM
#451
Originally Posted by John Tag
Hey Tim.. Komotos are great 19T motors. We have found gearing around 28mm roll out to be best to start. Vegas was a med to large track with both tech and flowing sections and we too geared 28mm there too. We have also found either F brushes with red/red combo to work well or XXX brushes with Purple+ and red - to work well also.. Hope this helps.. 
12-13-2006, 08:51 PM
#452
how different is the v2 endbell different from the checkpoint one?
12-13-2006, 09:44 PM
#453
The short answer is "VERY different", but that would be mean...
The key is in the brush diameter and the brush angle...
The Checkpoint seems to be slightly larger in diameter -- this means it produces more "wrap" on the armature, which makes more power and increases RPM (all other things being equal)
The V2 brush is smaller in diameter, so it has less "wrap" -- this means slightly less RPM, but slightly more torque...
The brush angle also has an impact, but more subtle.
The Checkpoint brushes are at 90* to the arm, so there is more chance of brush "bounce", so in 19t, everyone I know changes to the stiffer silver springs. The 90* angle also means the actual "footprint" of the brush on the comm is round...
The V2 has the brushes at an angle, so there is much, much less brush bounce. This angle also creates a larger, oval shaped "footprint" from the round brush. This increases current flow, but also adds brush drag on the comm if you over spring...
The 19t Checkpoint endbell is mostly "plastic" material, so it has less heat sinking capabilities, but I've never had a heat related issue...
The V2 aluminum endbell is an incredible heatsink and really keeps the endbell cooler than any other 19t motors...
The Checkpoint mounts the bearing in the conventional manner, so it really cannot move..
The V2 uses o-rings to hold the endbell bearing in place, which reduces vibration (they say). But it also means that in a hard "hit", I have seen the bearing pop out, damaging the outer o-ring (requireing replacement). A side effect of this issue is that the armature usually will hit the tips of the brush tubes when the bearing gets popped out -- this can bend/damage the brush tubes, either causing a "hung brush" condition or making the motor not run when reassembled (the brush pops up in the tube from the impact, the tip is "dinged" and won't let the brush come back down to make contact with the comm)...
Long winded, but you asked...
The key is in the brush diameter and the brush angle...
The Checkpoint seems to be slightly larger in diameter -- this means it produces more "wrap" on the armature, which makes more power and increases RPM (all other things being equal)
The V2 brush is smaller in diameter, so it has less "wrap" -- this means slightly less RPM, but slightly more torque...
The brush angle also has an impact, but more subtle.
The Checkpoint brushes are at 90* to the arm, so there is more chance of brush "bounce", so in 19t, everyone I know changes to the stiffer silver springs. The 90* angle also means the actual "footprint" of the brush on the comm is round...
The V2 has the brushes at an angle, so there is much, much less brush bounce. This angle also creates a larger, oval shaped "footprint" from the round brush. This increases current flow, but also adds brush drag on the comm if you over spring...
The 19t Checkpoint endbell is mostly "plastic" material, so it has less heat sinking capabilities, but I've never had a heat related issue...
The V2 aluminum endbell is an incredible heatsink and really keeps the endbell cooler than any other 19t motors...
The Checkpoint mounts the bearing in the conventional manner, so it really cannot move..
The V2 uses o-rings to hold the endbell bearing in place, which reduces vibration (they say). But it also means that in a hard "hit", I have seen the bearing pop out, damaging the outer o-ring (requireing replacement). A side effect of this issue is that the armature usually will hit the tips of the brush tubes when the bearing gets popped out -- this can bend/damage the brush tubes, either causing a "hung brush" condition or making the motor not run when reassembled (the brush pops up in the tube from the impact, the tip is "dinged" and won't let the brush come back down to make contact with the comm)...
Long winded, but you asked...
12-14-2006, 02:25 AM
#454
reedy quad magnet users..
whats your view regarding the handwounded reedy QM's?
starting FDR? should it be geared tall also?
thanks
whats your view regarding the handwounded reedy QM's?
starting FDR? should it be geared tall also?thanks
12-14-2006, 03:19 AM
#455
Originally Posted by tfrahm
...
Long winded, but you asked...
Long winded, but you asked...
much appreciated info. u're a credit to the hobby
12-14-2006, 11:08 AM
#456
Originally Posted by |JayFlores|
reedy quad magnet users..
whats your view regarding the handwounded reedy QM's? starting FDR? should it be geared tall also?
thanks
whats your view regarding the handwounded reedy QM's?
starting FDR? should it be geared tall also?thanks
12-26-2006, 06:19 AM
#458
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
What kind of roll out for 12th scale should I start with on a small/med size track using the Checkpoint money 19t.
12-27-2006, 08:29 AM
#460
Anyone run the TOP racing 19T motors ?
Would appreciate opinions.
Would appreciate opinions.
12-29-2006, 06:35 PM
#461
Tech Addict
i just put in an EPIC Binary outlaw19 Pro to get more data for my chassis and.......the chassis feels good...the motor DON'T! what can i do to wake this thing up!?!? it's the quad mag "PRO" with XXX octogon brushes set at about 36 degrees timing (factory). i went from a 104/33 to 39 on my pro4 and i'm NOT happy with this $55 motor! 
12-29-2006, 06:43 PM
#462
Tech Addict
ooooops!!!! put a 100 tooth spur in and kept the 39 tooth on. better....muuuuch better. my bad. 
01-01-2007, 09:25 PM
#463
I have some problem with 19T motor, i bought brand new 19T komodo dragon i check with motor checker and can pull up to 35.000 rpm after couple run i check again is only 26.000 rpm.i already align the hood. Why the motor performance is down?? is it something wrong? Can anyone help me? 
01-01-2007, 09:40 PM
#464
Remove the Springs and make sure the brush can move in and out of the hoods smoothly, you should be able to push in with the shunt without the shunt bending.
You should also check that your brushes havent worn past 1/3 of thier origional length and that your Spring Tension is good.
Hope that helps ya out.. Good luck.
You should also check that your brushes havent worn past 1/3 of thier origional length and that your Spring Tension is good.
Hope that helps ya out.. Good luck.
01-01-2007, 09:56 PM
#465
Yes, brush little stuck to move in and out from the hood.. how to solve this problem..? thanks