1/12 forum
With the screws above the side springs. The side springs are progressively wound, the further they're driven onto the ball or the pod plate (depending how you're set up) the more pressure they apply to that side of the pod and the opposite side front tire.
Scottrik
Scottrik
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 562
From: it's only illegal if you get caught!
i know someone already asked this question but i can't seem to find it. which lunsford titanium front axles fit the rc12l4?
it would be really handy if there was some sort of 1/12th database with info relating to hop ups, setups and just general tips!
it would be really handy if there was some sort of 1/12th database with info relating to hop ups, setups and just general tips!
Here's your Lunsford axles Lunsford Racing axles
You might consider this too, which includes pretty much everything for the front of your car (tie rod turnbuckles, camber turnbuckles, kingpins, axles) Lunsford front end kit
Finally--I really like their 8-32 X 1/2" Ti csk screws for mounting my front end to the chassis Lunsford 8-32 X 1/2" since these get loosened and tightened frequently as ride height is adjusted. The advantage to these is they're far tougher than aluminum screws, far lighter than steel screws, and they have a hex head that is much more durable than the Phillips head original screws.
Oh--as far as a database...I thought that was YOUR project...
Scottrik
You might consider this too, which includes pretty much everything for the front of your car (tie rod turnbuckles, camber turnbuckles, kingpins, axles) Lunsford front end kit
Finally--I really like their 8-32 X 1/2" Ti csk screws for mounting my front end to the chassis Lunsford 8-32 X 1/2" since these get loosened and tightened frequently as ride height is adjusted. The advantage to these is they're far tougher than aluminum screws, far lighter than steel screws, and they have a hex head that is much more durable than the Phillips head original screws.
Oh--as far as a database...I thought that was YOUR project...
Scottrik
ive been running nitro touring a while thats what i know how to drive,just started running electric tc.electric is way easier to drive btw,was curious bout driving 12th scale,and setup stuff.looks so easy a caveman could setup a 12th scale?oh yeah what bout price and basics,like whats a hot motor,body,tires etc..
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 134
You may fine the info you need here... www.12thrc.com ;-)
Mark
Mark
Originally Posted by chris moore
I need some help from you guys on setting the tweak on a 3.1 CRC. I bought it used and have never run this style of chassie before. Just how do you set the tweak?
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 134
Only us Cavemen here...
....we can hardly write so it is unlikely that any of us will respond.
As you are obviously capable of much higher brain function, you should stick to nitro. Thats where all guys with opposable thumbs hang out.
On the other hand... some cave drawings are available at www.12thrc.com
M
....we can hardly write so it is unlikely that any of us will respond.
As you are obviously capable of much higher brain function, you should stick to nitro. Thats where all guys with opposable thumbs hang out.
On the other hand... some cave drawings are available at www.12thrc.com
M
Originally Posted by intimidator
ive been running nitro touring a while thats what i know how to drive,just started running electric tc.electric is way easier to drive btw,was curious bout driving 12th scale,and setup stuff.looks so easy a caveman could setup a 12th scale?oh yeah what bout price and basics,like whats a hot motor,body,tires etc..
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 134
Arh T Bars.
Untill reciently, this was all uncharted territory for me. Now I know more (currently running T fource in "standard" T bar trim).
Advice from top drivers here in the UK is to just allow the T Bar screws to *just* touch down on the chassis and the back them off by about 1/8th of a turn to allow a tiny tiny little amount of pod movement without T bar flex.
You will get a better feel for this without a motor in the pod and without the shock/spring attached.
This is what I have been advised to do and my first time out on a T bar was very nice thankyou!
Cheers
mark
Untill reciently, this was all uncharted territory for me. Now I know more (currently running T fource in "standard" T bar trim).
Advice from top drivers here in the UK is to just allow the T Bar screws to *just* touch down on the chassis and the back them off by about 1/8th of a turn to allow a tiny tiny little amount of pod movement without T bar flex.
You will get a better feel for this without a motor in the pod and without the shock/spring attached.
This is what I have been advised to do and my first time out on a T bar was very nice thankyou!
Cheers
mark
Originally Posted by Geforcy
What is the use of the downstops in the t-bar? what will happen if I screw them in or out? (except travel of course)....
I have a corally sp12x
I have a corally sp12x

I think I'm interested in a t-plate car. I want a kit with aluminum bulk heads and a more open motor pod design from the top. It must also be durable. Does BMI sell a kit yet? I checked their website and found very little about it. I'm leaning in the AE direction, but I'm still open to it. I plan on running a Novak GTB and a 13.5 brushless. Can it be done in 1/12 scale? Thanks.
Yep, it sure can. Brushless and brushed motors are the same length. It's just that the brushless end is more rectangular of course, and this means you usually need to take off the top pod plate to get the motor in or out. 3 screws is no big deal especially when you can leave the brushless motor in for so long.
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 562
From: it's only illegal if you get caught!
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Here's your Lunsford axles Lunsford Racing axles
You might consider this too, which includes pretty much everything for the front of your car (tie rod turnbuckles, camber turnbuckles, kingpins, axles) Lunsford front end kit
Finally--I really like their 8-32 X 1/2" Ti csk screws for mounting my front end to the chassis Lunsford 8-32 X 1/2" since these get loosened and tightened frequently as ride height is adjusted. The advantage to these is they're far tougher than aluminum screws, far lighter than steel screws, and they have a hex head that is much more durable than the Phillips head original screws.
Oh--as far as a database...I thought that was YOUR project...
Scottrik
You might consider this too, which includes pretty much everything for the front of your car (tie rod turnbuckles, camber turnbuckles, kingpins, axles) Lunsford front end kit
Finally--I really like their 8-32 X 1/2" Ti csk screws for mounting my front end to the chassis Lunsford 8-32 X 1/2" since these get loosened and tightened frequently as ride height is adjusted. The advantage to these is they're far tougher than aluminum screws, far lighter than steel screws, and they have a hex head that is much more durable than the Phillips head original screws.
Oh--as far as a database...I thought that was YOUR project...
Scottrik
i still have a lot to learn setup and knowledge wise but the more i read this thread and ask questions the faster i can become!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 992
From: Colorado, Above The Rest
Darkside Motorsports Team Driver Mike Haynes qualify's on the front row in 1/12 19 Turn with the Darkside Motorsports Mx2 road course chassis, besting nearly 80 of the best drivers in the country.
Way to go Mike!
-E
Way to go Mike!
-E
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Darkside Motorsports Team Driver Mike Haynes qualify's on the front row in 1/12 19 Turn with the Darkside Motorsports Mx2 road course chassis, besting nearly 80 of the best drivers in the country.
Way to go Mike!
-E
Way to go Mike!
-E



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