1/12 forum
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 278
From: Kuala Lumpur Malaysia
mtm
Reduce your drag brake in your esc setting. If your car still oversteer when you let go the throttle, replace your motor with different motor or replace the motor can with less powerful magnet.
Reduce your drag brake in your esc setting. If your car still oversteer when you let go the throttle, replace your motor with different motor or replace the motor can with less powerful magnet.
Originally Posted by mtmmotorcycles
A quick question for all you 1/12th scale pro's, I ran my car today and it is suffering from off power oversteer what is the best way to tune this out of the car?
Thanks Brendan
Thanks Brendan
2) Use less droop on the rear pod
3) Use stiffer center shock spring
4) move batteries more forward
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Hi all!
I just wanted to poke my head back in hear to let everyone know that I am still here. Big news from the Slapmaster factory, I am nearing completion of a new work shop for production. In the '05-06 winter season, I to had lease a space which I vacated this past April. I made up as much inventory as I could to get through the summer knowing that a new shop would be built. The work benches are going in right now and lots of shelving. A really cool dust collection-ventilation system has been installed in the cut booth for cutting the chassis out. All the machine equipment will come out of storeage and get remounted in the next day or two. Production should start back up in the next couple of weeks.
I see that many are chatting about the thrust bearings. They continue to amaze me. So much, I am considering offering a lifetime guarantee. I have not been able to wear mine out. I ran my 3 year old diff's at Nats this year. Everyone I showed them to, couldn't beleive it. I have only heard of two that have failed that were likely used on a dusty out door track. Beyond that, I have not heard of any of the thrust races wearing out through normal useage. If anyone has worn one out, I would like to know: [email protected] How many r/c products can you claim that have a unknown life expectancy? ... on the positive side!
BTW: the thrust race replaces the cone and bellevel washer, but the 1/4x3/8" bearing remains in the hub. It's now a radial bearing (like it was designed to be) and just centers up your wheel hub.
I have decided to do just a running change on the MS2.3 rather then a giving it a new designation. I will change the mold enough to get back to the smaller front tire diameter like the 2.2 used. It will be able to use a tire down to 1.60 whereas the 2.3 could only get to a 1.66 with common parts. I will also add two holes in the rear so that CRC upper chassis brace can be added. You will be able to mount the damper tubes near flat for those high bite race tracks. Down low for the med-low bite. Up high or flat for those high bite tracks.
Dan Garber is my latest driver piloting the MS2.3 at his local home track; Seattle Indoor Raceway. Dan has evolved from the Tamiya series. He has even taken Tamiya Series Championship a few years back. Dan's understanding of race cars is very impressive and together we should have even more refinements for the MS line up. You know that there will be some fun prototype stuff showing up from time to time.
Foam bumpers are still available. I knew that they didn't weigh very much, but I never checked them. I took 10 of them and put them on a gram scale... it showed 20 grams or 2 grams each. Amazing.
My website is still very stagnent. Someday I will get around to putting my latest products on there. You can still reach me through it. www.slapmastertools.com
Thanks for your support!
Brian
[email protected]
I just wanted to poke my head back in hear to let everyone know that I am still here. Big news from the Slapmaster factory, I am nearing completion of a new work shop for production. In the '05-06 winter season, I to had lease a space which I vacated this past April. I made up as much inventory as I could to get through the summer knowing that a new shop would be built. The work benches are going in right now and lots of shelving. A really cool dust collection-ventilation system has been installed in the cut booth for cutting the chassis out. All the machine equipment will come out of storeage and get remounted in the next day or two. Production should start back up in the next couple of weeks.
I see that many are chatting about the thrust bearings. They continue to amaze me. So much, I am considering offering a lifetime guarantee. I have not been able to wear mine out. I ran my 3 year old diff's at Nats this year. Everyone I showed them to, couldn't beleive it. I have only heard of two that have failed that were likely used on a dusty out door track. Beyond that, I have not heard of any of the thrust races wearing out through normal useage. If anyone has worn one out, I would like to know: [email protected] How many r/c products can you claim that have a unknown life expectancy? ... on the positive side!
BTW: the thrust race replaces the cone and bellevel washer, but the 1/4x3/8" bearing remains in the hub. It's now a radial bearing (like it was designed to be) and just centers up your wheel hub.
I have decided to do just a running change on the MS2.3 rather then a giving it a new designation. I will change the mold enough to get back to the smaller front tire diameter like the 2.2 used. It will be able to use a tire down to 1.60 whereas the 2.3 could only get to a 1.66 with common parts. I will also add two holes in the rear so that CRC upper chassis brace can be added. You will be able to mount the damper tubes near flat for those high bite race tracks. Down low for the med-low bite. Up high or flat for those high bite tracks.
Dan Garber is my latest driver piloting the MS2.3 at his local home track; Seattle Indoor Raceway. Dan has evolved from the Tamiya series. He has even taken Tamiya Series Championship a few years back. Dan's understanding of race cars is very impressive and together we should have even more refinements for the MS line up. You know that there will be some fun prototype stuff showing up from time to time.
Foam bumpers are still available. I knew that they didn't weigh very much, but I never checked them. I took 10 of them and put them on a gram scale... it showed 20 grams or 2 grams each. Amazing.
My website is still very stagnent. Someday I will get around to putting my latest products on there. You can still reach me through it. www.slapmastertools.com
Thanks for your support!
Brian
[email protected]
Hey,
How does one tell the difference between a "standard" metal-shielded bearing and a ceramic bearing? I bought a roller that is supposed to have ceramic bearings installed on it and have a complete second set of them. The loose bearings look pretty much like the ones that come with the CRC kits...
The bearings are supposed to be Boca.
Thanks,
Scottrik
How does one tell the difference between a "standard" metal-shielded bearing and a ceramic bearing? I bought a roller that is supposed to have ceramic bearings installed on it and have a complete second set of them. The loose bearings look pretty much like the ones that come with the CRC kits...
The bearings are supposed to be Boca.
Thanks,
Scottrik
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,273
From: VA
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Is there any way to get the front end grip to come down at the beginning of the heat, and stay consistant for the whole 8 minutes? For about the first minute and a half or so, the front grip is so high, it is on the verge of spinning out. After that, it is fine for the remainder of the race. Is there any way to make it the same for 8 minutes?
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 278
From: Kuala Lumpur Malaysia
Brendan
Sorry bro, I have switched to brushless motor a long time ago and no longer in touch with the latest brush technology. You can start by manually rotating the motor using your finger. If it takes a lot of torque to rotate it, you will sure have plenty of motor braking. Try several of them including the one with old magnet cause old can has weak magnet.
1/12 car is light and very sensitive to motor braking. Even with brushless motor, if I set it with too much drag brake, my rear end will become loose everytime i let go my throttle. Dont bother applying light throttle cause with a car that light, it's very difficult to determine how small is small until you're sure that the throttle is neutral.
Sorry bro, I have switched to brushless motor a long time ago and no longer in touch with the latest brush technology. You can start by manually rotating the motor using your finger. If it takes a lot of torque to rotate it, you will sure have plenty of motor braking. Try several of them including the one with old magnet cause old can has weak magnet.
1/12 car is light and very sensitive to motor braking. Even with brushless motor, if I set it with too much drag brake, my rear end will become loose everytime i let go my throttle. Dont bother applying light throttle cause with a car that light, it's very difficult to determine how small is small until you're sure that the throttle is neutral.
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
got a 3* & 4* to use
what do you guys run the rollout @ ?
what do you guys run the rollout @ ?
30mm rollout for 4*
This is for a large outdoor track (120ft straight), adjust down for smaller tracks.
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 134
Hi all
I have just updated www.12thrc.com with my review of the Spektrum DSM conversion for the KO Vantage.
I realise that stick radios may be a weird thing in the US but in Europe, this is what we do (!) and I wanted to stay with my Vantage and go Spektrum.
The 2006/2007 UK 1/2th season is comming.......
Cheers
Mark
I have just updated www.12thrc.com with my review of the Spektrum DSM conversion for the KO Vantage.
I realise that stick radios may be a weird thing in the US but in Europe, this is what we do (!) and I wanted to stay with my Vantage and go Spektrum.
The 2006/2007 UK 1/2th season is comming.......
Cheers
Mark
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 337
From: Cleveland, Ohio
I am curious...
If you buy the U.S. spec and put an Associated front end or a CRC front end on this car like Spashett used to win the Worlds, what makes it significantly different than the other t-bar style cars that are already on the market?
If you buy the U.S. spec and put an Associated front end or a CRC front end on this car like Spashett used to win the Worlds, what makes it significantly different than the other t-bar style cars that are already on the market?



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