chippy

iTrader: (4)

I actually shimmed mine on the out side, between the bearing and the drive cup
Because when I shimmed inside it raised the pin and made the gears bind.

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

thanks chippy, didnt think of shimming outside ,makes better sense.
i tried shimming under the pin and like you said it bound up the gears a bit.
looks like plan B goes into action
thanks again
joe

wallyedmonds

the rear diff never had a prob just tighten it down good with a new seal every time you take it apart,the front i do use silicone to seal it.but i dont use a front diff anymore.and dont shim the diffs they need to move.

wallyedmonds

just a hair very little gap and the two 2.6x12 screws ajust the same at 1/4 turn incrim, they have to be the same,this is very important just like your clutch and it takes time to get it right but youll get it.

wallyedmonds

this is so true but very cool.

smostyn

iTrader: (9)

Can anybody tell me if the front diff from MTX4 will fit in to a MTX3????

Thanks for the help.

Corse-R

This has been asked in so many forms, but we'll answer just another time:

The internal parts of the front diff on the MTX3 & MTX4 are interchangeable, the unique parts that aren't interchangeable are the diff cases, each car has their own and aren't interchangeable between them.

Corse-R

The diff leaks fluid if is filled too much. Diff shouldn't bind or leaks too much if:

1. - Installed the o-rings that goes on the outdrives and put the shim that presses it on the casing.
2. - The diff has the paper seal between the two cases. If the sealing paper isn't there, the gears bind so badly that diff is almost locked and they need to reseat another time and they'll have a very hard time doing them, meanwhile the diff will be inoperative until the gears wear.

A little of play on the outdrives is acceptable. This play is needed to make sure the pin that holds the satellite gears grab hard on the outdrive. Shimming on the outside makes the diff prone to fail by the locking pins on the outdrives.

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

thanks CorseR,
maybe being overfilled was the problem after all, as all your other points was how i originaly built the diff
cheers
joe

bigboss

just breaking in new engine, if clutch is engagin late, do i loosen or tighten clutch spring??

by the way i only got 1 washer between the thrust bearing and the plastic part, (should have 3) would putting 1 more solve my problem??

thanks in advance

Corse-R

If your clutch is engaging late (needs to rev so much) you need to loosen the spring collar (try 1/4 of turn and if bogs, tighten it 1/8 of turn).

In cold conditions, your clutch need to slip a little. Do around 3 laps to your track before trying to adjust your clutch. Clutchbell should be warm to hot to effectively adjust the clutch spring tension.

bigboss

thanks for advice
i loosened it, about .6mm now
still need alot of revs to get it moving

my theory is that its running really rich, but aint 100% sure

Chris West

fill to just above where the 2 spidre gear shafts cross, my mate was told at the pre-worlds that silicon oil expands slightly when it gets hot.

wallyedmonds

i still find the thing leaks,had the prob with the mtx2/3 but i just run the one-way now so it dosent matter.

TomB

iTrader: (10)

always change the rubber seal when re building it. clean it up after the first full day of use with metho (from the outside) this way you can see if it keeps on leaking.