Got it done tonight, works great,ran 2 tanks through it and havent had a glitch yet.Ill kep this updated as i tune the engine, going to race it tomorrow.

When you run a motor without a pipe you get no fuel pressure so it goes lean automatically now matter how its tuned.

Yes that is true but when you never go WOT the engine vacuum helps pull fuel in, and with the low speed needle out 4 tunrs out ran rich,i know this from the need to keep the glow starter on the engine just to keep it running.BTW I took your advice and got a R40 comes tomorrow

You need to run a pressure line from your pipe to the tank for proper fuel delivery.

I know this...im out of fuel line....Iv been doing rc cars for over 8 years, and i build custom made engines.

now not to be a dick, but if you are so wise on the way's of R/C why run an engine without a pipe on it? what does that prove? and "the engine vacuum helps pull fuel in" is true but it only brings a fraction of the fuel in that it should. The tuned back pressure from a good tuned pipe changes tuning on an engine greatly.

Also why leave the glow driver on the plug after you got it running like melting them?

Also why aluminum A Arms? you like spending money when you tap a wall or a curb? they bend VERY easy and cause your car to go out of tweak almost the instant it hits the track.

Being a dude who raced competitively a mod'd RS4 for 2 years I know where some weak points are: and they are simply the drive line. You are going to snap the dog bones in the center, and possibly burn down gearing in the diff's amazingly fast. Lash will build rapidly cause of the design and materials HPI used and will make the car very breakage prone. The rear dog will snap quite frequently with that much power.

The R40 is a much better bet (even though I think the R40 is a copy of a copy of a copy)

Heres a pic of the RS4 I used to race:
http://clegg.procooling.com/gallery/...um08/align.jpg
None of that blingy aluminum stuff where it didnt need to be... It's a RS4 w/ a custom center shoe type 2 speed, one way, hardedned front and rear bits, and a 7075 3mm beveled chassis... it was a stout machine.

Heres the baddie FW-05RR that replaced it (shown after a year of running it):
http://clegg.procooling.com/gallery/...lbum08/RR3.jpg

I wasn't trying to bust your chops or anything. Just trying to help. That would explain the ultra short fuel line to the carb though.

What exhuast system will I need to use if I want to run a different engine?
I will be getting a round port exhasut engine, but was unsure of what exhasut system will work for the rs43 18ss

What is the diffrence between the Type SS with the .12 engine, and the 18SS?

The .18ss has some hardened drivetrain parts. I seem to remember that the drive cups and maybe gears. Check the HPI web site. You might need to check the parts lists for both cars to make sure though.

before cleaning

gjkwb

what mods do you have on your car and could you tell me where you got them?

I have an rtr rs4 evo3

Thanks!

I need to do some parking lot bashing today.

Hi I am planning in buying an HPI RS4-3 18ss new, with a resonable price. From what I read about it, it seems not a bad car for a beginer. The engine that come with the kit, any views about it? and you can use a starter box to start it up?

Joe F
Malta

The motor has good rip and it can be started with at starter box.