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Old 05-06-2005, 11:02 PM   #166
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Rapid Roy,

I know nothing about what is required to properly set up the suspension. I merely made sure the car was high enough off the ground to avoid scraping the bottom when it hit a bumb. Probably too high for racing. Can you point me to a good post on this topic???

I took my car out to the local track this afternoon to practice. I tried out the rubber tires that came with the car, they got zero traction. i couldnt even get around the wide diameter turn with out my rear end sliding out. I slapped on some 35 durometer foams (front and back) and my traction was greatly improved although I was still having some problems with the back end on the sharper corners. Any suggestions?

What is the largest size engine for sanctioned races?

fastharry ,

The straight at the track I was at today is only about 150ft. That is by far my best portion of the track. I wish it were 250ft so I could really open up on the throttle. Why do you feel the RS4-3 is ubsuited for long straights?
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Old 05-06-2005, 11:28 PM   #167
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Pete,

Your going to have to ask fastharry about setup. I have racer2's and R40's but nothing in between. I could give you some general setup guidlines if fastharry doesn't get back to you.
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Old 05-07-2005, 07:12 PM   #168
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Rapid Poy,

Im starting at the bottom end of the learning curve so any general set up info you could pass my way would help. By the way what is a Racer2 Ive never heard of it? Is it an older HPI model?

fastharry,

If you have any specific set up info for the RS4-3 that would be greatly appreciated as well.
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Old 05-07-2005, 07:44 PM   #169
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Here's a good general setup for HPI cars running rubber tire.

Front:
0 degrees toe in
1 Degree camber
4.5 to 5.5 mm ride hight
50 wt shock oil
Stock springs
Stock shock piston

Rear:
1.5 degrees camber
5.5 mm ride height
50 wt shock oil
white (softer) springs
Stock shock piston

For Foam tire use 1 to .5 degrees more camber.

Remember, harder suspension/tires means less grip, softer means more grip.
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Old 05-08-2005, 06:26 PM   #170
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Pete, i'm in the same position you are...so i'll be coming back here for advice shortly... after a little track time.
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Old 05-08-2005, 08:21 PM   #171
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Rapid Roy,

How do I mesaure thers things? Is there there a soecific tool that you use?

stone86,

Glad to see I'm not all alone. Hopefully we can help each other along the way and help others down the line.

Are the HPI foams a good quality tire. Cleaning up my car today I noticed a huge chunk missing out of the tire like a small animal bit into it. What causes this?
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:09 PM   #172
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Anyone know a trick I can use to keep my turnbucles from popping off during a rail rub. I lost a front and rear dogbone at the track today, luckily I was able to find them both. If the turnbucles wouldnt pop off I wouldnt have to worry about losing the dog bones.

Still trying to figure out how to measure camber and toe-in etc if anyone can help with that.
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Old 05-12-2005, 01:08 PM   #173
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Sorry for the delay. You might want to try some RPM ball ends. They are way stronger. They make lots of different sizes so you want to take you car into the hobby shop and check.

As far as measuring your suspension setup, there are a few ways to do it.

1. You can buy a setup station spending between $70 to $200. These stations are a collection of measuring devices you clamp onto your car instead of the wheels and let you measure everything at once. This makes setup quick easy and consistant.

2. RPM makes a camber gage and toe in gage. I beleive they cost $8 to $12 each. The camber gage is great, the toe in gage is trash. Don't waste you money. I have one sitting in my tool box collecting dust.

3. Old school method. Use a protractor or adjustable triangle to measure camber. Not too difficult to do this way. Toe in is a bit trickier. The way I used to do it before I got a setup station was to use a ruler to measure the distance between the front tires at the front edge. Then do the same at the rear edge. For 0 degrees toe in, the measurements should be the same. I found that 1/16" was one degree. To make sure your front tires are centered properly, turn on your radio and receiver. Now place a ruller on the outside of the right side wheels. If you are running 0 degrees toe in, then the ruler will sit flush against the front wheel and rest against the rear. Adjust the steering linkage nearest the steering servo for this. Do the same for the left side of the car. Just make sure that both front tires are the same.

For ride height, you can use a peice of cardboard and cut a series of 1mm steps into it. Then just slide it under the car to set your ride height. Many companys make these as well. HPI includes one with the R40 kit. I don't think it costs much so you might want to pick one up.

Hope this helps. Don't think that you need all the latest toys to go racing. The setup stations have only been around for 4 or 5 years. They make adjustments a bit faster although I still use my RPM camber gage to quickly check my settings.
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Old 05-12-2005, 01:36 PM   #174
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rapid Roy,

Im not going to have the items to revise my shocks before my first race ever this weekend, but I have a ruler and a protractor if I cant find the more reliable tools that you mentioned! Im not sure im ready to spring for a setup station just yet, that money could be going towards an R40! I appreciate the help. I'll let you know I fared at the races after saturday. My goal this week is to just finish!
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Old 05-13-2005, 08:55 AM   #175
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Trying to cram knowledge before race day!

What is the difference between the 8 degree and 10 degree front upright pieces as well as the 1 degree and 2 degree rear hub pieces. If you control the camber by adjusting the turnbuckle length what purpose does it serve to have these options????? I am thoroughly confused about this can anyone help me out???
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Old 05-13-2005, 09:01 AM   #176
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Default Re: Trying to cram knowledge before race day!

Quote:
Originally posted by TexasPete
What is the difference between the 8 degree and 10 degree front upright pieces as well as the 1 degree and 2 degree rear hub pieces. If you control the camber by adjusting the turnbuckle length what purpose does it serve to have these options????? I am thoroughly confused about this can anyone help me out???
8 and 10 deg for front refer to caster (use higher caster for bumpy tracks)

1 and 2 deg for rear is the rear toe (i suggest you use 2 deg for stability)

since this will be your first race, do not try to adjust everything in the car. start with the kit setting and just change the tires to suit the track.
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Old 05-13-2005, 09:10 AM   #177
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purplepro3,

In what situation would it benefit you to use the the 1 degree rear toe?????

The knowledge is greatly appreciated!
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Old 05-13-2005, 09:13 AM   #178
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Also what adverse effect would you have if you are using a high caster on a smooth track???????
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Old 05-13-2005, 10:35 AM   #179
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Just leave it stock and change one thing at a time. First take the car out and monitor how the car is handling. Is the rear coming loose. Then you want a stickier tire in the rear.

Is it not turning enough , then you want a stickier tire in the front. Start with this first , then start tweaking the suspension some.

This should be far easier than trying to tweak the suspension.

Also a quick tip to at least make sure your front toe is equal. Is take off the turnbuckles and in hand feel them at both tops, if one pokes up a little or feels longer....which is should be easy when you squeeze both of them between your fingers.

Just make a C with your thumb and index and place the turnbuckles in between standing up. Then adjust until they are perfect this at least makes sure your car wont pull to one side.

Good luck.
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Old 05-13-2005, 01:19 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally posted by TexasPete
purplepro3,

In what situation would it benefit you to use the the 1 degree rear toe?????

The knowledge is greatly appreciated!
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...tro3EVO_35.jpg
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