22054 37mm shafts
42220 5x10x3 bearings
42218 DCJ axles
42320 light weight joint casing
42319 - optional lightweight cross joint no pins or retainers
42221- this is the std cross joint set but has the retainer springs and roll pins

So my Benz GT3 TT-02R is finished now, time to get batteries for it.. Are you folks that run the TCS stuff using full size lipos or shorties?? And what mAH would you recommend? I've got a couple of 6500mAH GensAce shorties I use in my RC10B7 but I would need to order some foam to keep them from bashing around in the tray heh. Was thinking to just buy a pair of 6100 full size GensAces for it, but I ran across a lot of pics of folks with 5000mAH in it. Is that going to cut down power in the last bit of the race or does everybody get by with that? Just curious to see what everyone is using and making it through a race with.

R1 5900 200C

Finished my tt02-r build this weekend. I used the Xv-02/Tt-02 spool for the front. On testing out in my driveway, I'm getting real bad wheel hop when turning. Is there something Im missing? Stock diff in the back, oil diff is on order.

Built this is for TCS so all tamiya parts:
tt02-r Kit
oil kit shocks with small spacer
Full steering kit
Adjustable arms
Silver can 540
Tamiya Kit tires
64/29 spur pinion

Tamiya kit tires have very little grip, so I'm surprised you would encounter hopping while turning when driving around on asphalt, which is a very loose surface to begin with. What's your spring set up? You don't want too stiff, and generally slightly softer in the rear for that rear traction. Also, aluminum 2.5 or 3 degree rear hub toe in may help if you don't have those already on.

At my carpet track, we run 5 minutes and I probably use up to roughly 40% of the battery, using a 5000mAH stick pack and for me, it's been pretty consistent with no drop in output towards the end of the heat. Try what you have first and see how much is used after each run, and if there are any noticeable drop in outputs in the last minute of a qualifier or race (which I highly doubt you should encounter).

I'm using the kit springs( so black?). The kit also came the 3.0 rear uprights. I'll pick up the tamiya spring kit and see if that helps. I have not setup the car yet. I threw in a battery and went to make sure it ran. When I saw the wheel hop I stopped in fear of breaking something.

LOL you can say that again. Stock tires, I was out in the street doing some pretty tight donuts and drifting unintentionally all over haha. Ended up trying it with a 6500 shorty. This battery is basically new and never really ran or even charged. Just came out of the box, went into my RC10 to configure the electronics and do its initial run. With the TT-02R, ran out in the street just zipping around for about 10 minutes or so, put the battery sensor cable in and it was still ~3.7/3.8 on both cells. These 6500 shorties actually weigh the same as the 5000/6100mAH full size packs too. I had to improvise and cut a bunch of random foam up to stuff in there to keep it from moving around though. I'm just wondering what the weight balance will be like and if it might throw it off. But then again, now that's its finished, I haven't even weighed it yet to see how close I am to the 1400g heh. Might be overthinking the whole thing, qualifiers are only 5 mins and mains are only 6 heh. Ordered a pair of the 6100s anyway as I need a full size battery with bullets for my BBX now that its got a 13.5T Justock setup in it heh.


Hmm likely something to do with the setup, although mine didnt take much to be honest, just straightening out the toe in on the front turnbuckles (which I still have to tweak a little more). Have almost the same setup, TT-02R with all the recommended hop ups on the list except the TT-02RR steering (Im using the 'regular aluminum set'). Also have the coupler in the front and the steel gear oil diff in the rear. Don't have a camber gauge so I didnt do any setup on the adjustable arms, just set them up as stock and eyeballed them to make sure they're straight heh. Mine's going to run GT Pro Spec so Hobbywing Justock 21.5T motor with the Justock ESC.

Took mine out for its virgin run in the street in front of the house yesterday, smooth as could be on that surface. No hopping, no bounce, nothing. The kit springs aren't that bad, just all the same. When I put the on road springs on, I squeezed them all, the black ones are about halfway between the blue and yellow springs in the hop ups. In fact they felt pretty close to the blue ones. I've got the blue on the front, yellow on the rear, never ran it with the stock springs so not sure how much more those will help aside from letting you adjust the feel between the front/rear.

What other people do at my track is secure (maybe double sided tape?) a block of foam so they can use the shorty lipo batteries. Some even place their ESC in that spot. I recommend getting a corner weight system (in addition to a normal scale - one for baking is good) to weigh your car. You don't need to have exactly 50% 50% left right or roughly 45% front, 55% rear. It's never going to be perfectly balanced. Even a 49% 51% left right difference is going to be anywhere from around 30g-60g difference depending on your car setup. I suppose you can play with the spring tension by placing a different number of collars on the left and right side, but at that point, it's quite negligible. As long as the car tracks straight, and turns properly on the track, it's going to run just fine (because most of the field of TT02s will have the same inherent issues anyways).

On the street, the thing seemed super responsive and even with the still slightly toed in front end, that thing was pretty straight just ripping up and down in the middle of the street. Seemed a bit 'slow' but that could be the tires not really gripping the asphalt heh. If anything its my turning that slid me into the curb a couple of times. Saturday was club racing day at Revelation, so I couldn't go 'practice' even if I wasn't at home sick with the flu.

I should have the new batteries in another day or so (GensAce's US offices are here in Cali too), so hopefully this weekend I'll head out there and try it on the actual track and see how it goes.

Last week I decided to use my TT02 Type S at an asphalt track. I was too lazy to convert one my TRF421 for asphalt. I managed to get it become consistent by 3rd qauli, only to have a C hub break on me. It was literally the only part I could not find in my spares. So day ended. When I returned home, I noticed I had some 420 style arms, C hubs, uprights etc left over. The only thing that irritates me about these arms is the lack of droop hole. Qatmix, our esteemed friend has designed two carbon plates that can be attached to address this. I however figured I'd look for a more crude route. So I took the TB03 reversible arms:

1. Drilled out the droop screw hole with 3 mm bit
2. Tapped it with 4mm tap
3. Placed the 420 arm on top and screwed a long 4mm screw into both to secure.
4. Ensured arms are parallel and square to each other.
5. Drilled hole through opposite droop screw hole of TB03 onto 420 arm.

Now I have 420 arms compatible with the droop tabs of TT02 type S. Now if only Tamiya had done that for us would have been great.

Hi. This arm drilling has been known for several years - at least since the SRX. There is certainly information about it here on RCTECH.

Does anyone have a fix for the spool on the SRX? Mine keeps breaking, even on the lightest taps. Is there an upgraded version available, or a better option people are running?

I still use the normal TT02 aluminum spool that drops into the stock TT02 differential (part # 54649). I've seen cars at the track use both the XV02(SRX) spool as well as the insert, with some decent hits and no breakages. Which part of the spool are you breaking?

The Cups.

I run the Gens Ace 6100's full size. They are LCG and just the right weight to where I only need to add about 5 grams to make the 1400 minimum weight. You can run shorties, but I've found that balance is better with full size packs.