2 Questions, 1. is the aluminum steering rack a necessity and 2. what is the minimum torque rating I should look for in a servo?

1) The rack is not a necessity, but if you are on a higher grip track, it will definatly help.

2) Any quality LP servo will work. I am running Exalt BL110 without issues.

I would recommend a servo with at least 15kg or 275 oz-in torque and speed of 0.1sec or faster depending on your driving style. I have had good luck with protek and AGFRC servos

On the list of parts needed for 2.0 "conversion" it has sway bar mount set listed, whats the difference between 1.0 and 2.0 if using 1.0 arms currently? Also when putting the 2.0 diff housing on the 1.0 chassis, do you just leave out the bottom screws that go through the bottom holes and into the front housing cover? Those holes are like, just slightly off and the button heads wont clear the open hole.

you’ll need to use the standard front shock tower when using the straight A-Arms. The arm are the same layout and length, the Gullwing mount the shocks 2mm lower.

The sway bar mounts into the same location on the arm, it protrudes further on the new bulkhead.

Try a different screw style with a smaller head, might work or mount the front cap and the bottom screws before mounting the diff housing to the chassis. Inconvenient but it should work. You could also dermal the chassis if needed.

Hey Guys,
Just got my 22x4 - 2.0. Been running 1/8 Nitro for so long but 1/10 carpet is the only game in town these days so I'm making a switch back after several years.

Any certain upgrades you'd rec. immediately? From what I remember in my 1/10 days....titanium turnbuckles and ball studs were a must. Kit already comes with aluminum servo horn so that's nice. I'm not looking for all the crazy aluminum hop ups, but would like to be competitive in expert class where added performance & reliability are most felt, not just looks.

Also - any good idea on range of pinions to start with? The local track is black carpet, medium size. Layout changes once a month. I grabbed a HW Xerun V10 G4R Team Ed. 13.5

Thanks - Carl

I would run aluminum steering rack. You do not need the ball studs. the new 5.8mm are really nice. For the motor you have I would start out at 78/26 look at the temps from there.

I would get the aluminum rack v1 version, titanium turnbuckles (TLR kit includes ball cups for spares) and put the plastic gears in the front and rear diffs. Besides that send it and learn!

I'm hearing that the Elite version of this buggy is coming out in May. Is anyone here able to confirm this?

I was highly tempted to pull the trigger on the 22X-4 2.0 for the summer - but if Elite is just around the corner, I'll hold on.

I'm coming back to 1/10 since the only thing around me is carpet. Majority run 2wd 17.5 but I love 1/8 Nitro so much I figured I'd wanna stick with 4wd at the 1/10 side. Only a handful of guys at my local track running it but when I saw this new kit just came out it was perfect timing. Figured this is perfect for me jumping back in plus the class might get a surge with this being released. I sure as hell always loved 4wd over 2wd all day any day.

I went ahead and grabbed the V1 rack out of precaution as mentioned by Hotrod716 & AxiomJacob, along with titanium turnbuckles. Pretty much the only "upgrades" I'm doing to this car, the rest is pretty damn nice OOB. Very happy to see it comes standard with aluminum servo horn. More money for tires/springs/oils.

Just finished building mine, also waiting on the rack and titanium turnbuckels as well as electronics

'i also like the afrc servos, but recently the ones i got from amazon developed some play in the endbell, the bhl62s i have are great, but amazon doesnt sell them rn

spektrum 6400 is great also

i have not been given that info, i would not plan on an elite anytime soon

Me too - the AGF A62BHS are brilliant for 1/10th and are comparitively inexpensive. On Ali - they're about $30!!

I buy mine via RC Car Store in the UK.