I agree, the cost of TLR aluminum is insane compared to AE.

Personally TLR is cheaper in the long run because I can't stand the blue aluminum parts on AE cars, so add about $200 onto the cost of the AE car for me to be happy.

I am quite happy with my new gen TLR cars. Kit quality is nice, and like previously stated the build is idiot proof.

Has anyone heard an ETA for the thick swaybars?

Should be end of the month for the sways

Thinking get back to racing after 3 yrs of absent and still have the first gen 22x-4 and would like to know if others parts still fit with the older one? My first 22x4 still in carbon fiber chassis which is a like and i have 2 of them for spare and bunch of spare. I almost sell since someone advice me to keep it you'll never if you coming back again and now i'm itching back to racing again

There is a lot of difference with the car.

Chassis:
The chassis has been significantly extended. It is cut differently at the front for the new side guards.

Three of the mounting holes for the front of the chassis have changed leading up to the center diff/slipper. The first hole for the servo mount is no longer countersunk; the new servo mount used a pin instead of a screw for the first mounting hole. The front two mounting holes for the side guards are several millimeters back to accommodate the new side guards (you will not be able to use the new side guards on a 1.0 without upgrading the chassis).

The mounting hole for everything after the diff/slipper has been shifted back but looks to all be the same (my guess is it’s dependent on the chassis length; the -3 chassis is likely 1:1 to the 1.0 chassis besides those 3 holes mentioned earlier).

Steering is all the same.


Servo Mount:

Completely new. Looks like it would fit, but I didn’t try it. You’d likely have to drill a hole in the 1.0 side guard to get the servo mount to fit.


Center Diff/Slipper:

Mounting holes are all the same. DC, no issues; exactly the same as 1.0.

It will likely be difficult to swap to the new Decoupled slipper in a 1.0 car. New front mount that requires the new servo mount to be used. Might fit using the same tricks to get the AE decoupled slipper to fit.


Shocks:

The shocks are almost all new.

Shock ends, shafts, caps, and x-rings are backwards compatible with the 1.0.

If you already upgraded to 13mm shocks (AVID, or another brand), there is no point in upgrading. If stuck on the 12mm, the 13s are noticeably better.

Shock towers are different to accommodate the diff height adjustment of the new gearboxes. The mounting holes are the same, so they should fit the 1.0. The 1.0 Shock towers will not fit a 2.0.


Arms:

The arms are redesigned. The front arms are now a Gullwing style. The rears are the same but have a different molding to accommodate the 22x.

Both are backwards compatible, but you will need a -2 front tower to maintain droop for the front arms.


Roll Center:

The ABCD blocks are the same, besides the new blocks C&D blocks on the AC.

If you have the Vision Racing C&D blocks, they are the same as the new AC C&D blocks.

New front castor block, only difference is it’s adjustable. It should be backwards compatible.

The sway bars are new but using the same part number.

The turnbuckle rod end and ball ends are larger, but are backwards compatible.


Diffs:

The ring and pinion of the diffs are the same. The pinion appears to be of higher quality than the 1.0.

The diff cup is different but should swap into the original gear box with no issue.


F&R Gearboxes:

The #1 question is the 1.0 gearboxes have been discontinued for some time.

The gearboxes are backwards compatible, but require a lot of additional parts to fit.

You’ll need the following to get them to fit:

• Sway Bar Bushing Set: 22X-4 2.0 TLR-1296 Quantity Needed: 2
• Differential Height Inserts: 22X-4 2.0 TLR-1295 Quantity Needed: 2
• Rear Gear Box Set: 22X-4 2.0 TLR-1281 Quantity Needed: 1
• Front Gear Box Set: 22X-4 2.0 TLR-1269 Quantity Needed: 1
• Sway Bar Mount Set (2): 22X-4 2.0 TLR-1297 Quantity Needed: 1
• Carbon Rear Shock Tower, STD: 22X-4 2.0 TLR-1301 Quantity Needed: 1
• You will also need the front shock towers but depending on the arm you’re running. The 1.0 straight arm will use the STD tower (TLR-1284) or the -2 tower (TLR-1306) if swapping to the new Gullwing arms.
• You will need the new sway bars once they are in stock. Apparently, the B84 Sway bars fit.

It’s a lot but still cheaper to keep your current car running than buying a new car. On the bright side the new gearboxes are a clear upgrade over the original car.


If you’re running a DC, it could be economical to slowly upgrade it to a 2.0 hybrid. Especially if you’re running on loose dirt and not high-traction clay, then the big upgrade to the extended chassis won’t be worth it.
​
If you’re running on Carpet/Astro, it’s likely best to get the new car. Unless you’ve done the AE decoupled slipper mod and Vision Racing +5mm chassis, the gearboxes and arms will get you 90% of the 2.0. Otherwise, there is too much, and these upgrades are ones that make a night-and-day difference on an AC car.

does anyone make a spool for the 22x4 2.0?

Building my 22x-4 2.0.

Getting binding in the steering. The ball cup seems to hit the steering rack and bind getting close to fill throw.
Using the aluminum ackermann plate.

Anyone else have this issue?

The 1.0 spool from Vision Racing or Exotek would work. You’ll need the right front bulkhead and drive shaft.

That’s the V2 drag link (TLR331061). It does not appear to be listed as compatible with the 2.0. It’s narrower than the one used on the 2.0.

You need TLR331052. I’m running it with no issues.

good to know, this is the one the LHS I race at gave me. I’ll be taking it back.

update, the stock one works perfect. Will be swapping out with the v1.

v2 will work, just releive a little of the plastic, steering parts, it hits due to the larger ball studs. 2 min job with a dremel

Front and rear are back in stock at HH. I ordered mine on Monday, will be to me by Wed, Thursday at the latest.

in stock now...mine arrived today

Has anyone tried running the center diff in the forward position yet on the dirt car? I think the xray and b84 are more forward than the 22x5 2.0.

I can tell you the B84 diff/motor is not more forward. I will try to run the diff forward when I go to Hooiser at some point this summer/fall.