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Old 08-12-2025 | 12:29 PM
  #586  
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Originally Posted by Pistol123
Looking at the Manual I assumed the wide and narrow pivot options on the rear hub tied in with the two pivot options on the wishbone - i.e if you are using the wide pivot on the wishbone then the rear hub insert is set with the hole on the outside



How I have looked at a couple of cars running at our track and also how my car was set up when it arrived, the hub insert is with the hole on the inside but still using the outer pivot on the wishbone, making it extra wide. Is this a common setup? It's difficult to tell from all the setup sheets as it doesn't cover the width of the insert just the height.

Thanks in advance
Pete
Update: looks like manual for D model has extra wide setting and narrow as kit setting for the M and S model.
when you run the wide hub, you run narrower hexes, such as -2, to keep same overall width

take a look on petit for Ben Smith setup at Herts last year as an example. You do need the dirt inserts to achieve the “later” letter settings and depending on what you run, different length driveshafts may be required to retain correct engagement in the drive cup. I think it might be the dirt car UJs in this case.
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Old 08-12-2025 | 12:51 PM
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Thanks!

Originally Posted by Pistol123
Here you go:
(Big Picture was here)
I used these and drilled out the rears to 1.8, there also tapered ones available which are yellow.
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Old 08-12-2025 | 01:51 PM
  #588  
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Originally Posted by TobyStephenson
when you run the wide hub, you run narrower hexes, such as -2, to keep same overall width

take a look on petit for Ben Smith setup at Herts last year as an example. You do need the dirt inserts to achieve the “later” letter settings and depending on what you run, different length driveshafts may be required to retain correct engagement in the drive cup. I think it might be the dirt car UJs in this case.
Thanks, my kit was originally a dirt kit so I have E,F,G & H options along with longer driveshafts. Will take another look at Ben's setup.
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Old 08-13-2025 | 06:50 AM
  #589  
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Originally Posted by Rfury
I am thinking about getting a LD3S. What are the best bang for buck upgrades for the kit over the base kit?

if your in North America, I would suggest buying the LD3M, in my opinion this is the best suited car for our market and directly competes with offerings from other manufacturers. If you run 21.5 or 17.5 then just add the factory slipper eliminator and you’re good to go.
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Old 08-13-2025 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Korgae
if your in North America, I would suggest buying the LD3M, in my opinion this is the best suited car for our market and directly competes with offerings from other manufacturers. If you run 21.5 or 17.5 then just add the factory slipper eliminator and you’re good to go.
I've just picked up a LD3M. Would you verify the part #s I'd need for the Slipper Lockout please?
Rob...
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Old 08-13-2025 | 09:27 PM
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Think I answered my own question. Good ole search bar... U8582 ?
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Old 08-15-2025 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Korgae
if your in North America, I would suggest buying the LD3M, in my opinion this is the best suited car for our market and directly competes with offerings from other manufacturers. If you run 21.5 or 17.5 then just add the factory slipper eliminator and you’re good to go.
That is what I have done. I run 17.5 and will try the slipper but probably change to the slipper eliminator before the Florida Carpet Champs in November.
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Old 08-18-2025 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Robio
Think I answered my own question. Good ole search bar... U8582 ?

Yes that the correct part number for the eliminator.
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Old 08-26-2025 | 08:17 AM
  #594  
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i have noticed a few people run the graphite chassis from the stock kit on wet astro/low grip tracks..any particular reason they do that?

is it because its lighter so you can get more chassis weights/under lipo weight at the rear of the car or does the chassis generate more grip than the alloy one?
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Old 08-26-2025 | 08:32 AM
  #595  
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Originally Posted by fastboy
i have noticed a few people run the graphite chassis from the stock kit on wet astro/low grip tracks..any particular reason they do that?

is it because its lighter so you can get more chassis weights/under lipo weight at the rear of the car or does the chassis generate more grip than the alloy one?
Carbon chassis tend to have more chassis flex which can help generate a bit more grip from the car and make it easier to drive
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Old 09-05-2025 | 10:52 AM
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Old 09-08-2025 | 10:50 AM
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Default Ld3d

About to pull the trigger on a ld3d kit for low/medium grip outdoor dirt. Aside from arms whats any other parts I should buy for spares?

Also what do you guys recommend for machined pistons? Do 13mm pistons for AE work? Also does anyone know if the ld3d comes with softer springs in the kit or is the only difference the layback tranny/longer cvd’s? Any other option parts I should get? Was going to get brass C block at least.

Where’s the best place to get parts in the US? Amazon’s selection of parts is pretty limited.


Sorry don’t have time to read the whole thread. Thank you.
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Old 09-08-2025 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by wydopen
About to pull the trigger on a ld3d kit for low/medium grip outdoor dirt. Aside from arms whats any other parts I should buy for spares?

Also what do you guys recommend for machined pistons? Do 13mm pistons for AE work? Also does anyone know if the ld3d comes with softer springs in the kit or is the only difference the layback tranny/longer cvd’s? Any other option parts I should get? Was going to get brass C block at least.

Where’s the best place to get parts in the US? Amazon’s selection of parts is pretty limited.


Sorry don’t have time to read the whole thread. Thank you.
The lower front kickup plate thing will snap in half if you hit something hard enough. Part number U8188.

Edit: You'll probably damage the top plate if you break the bottom bit, so get U8187 as well
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Old 09-08-2025 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wydopen
About to pull the trigger on a ld3d kit for low/medium grip outdoor dirt. Aside from arms whats any other parts I should buy for spares?

Also what do you guys recommend for machined pistons? Do 13mm pistons for AE work? Also does anyone know if the ld3d comes with softer springs in the kit or is the only difference the layback tranny/longer cvd’s? Any other option parts I should get? Was going to get brass C block at least.

Where’s the best place to get parts in the US? Amazon’s selection of parts is pretty limited.


Sorry don’t have time to read the whole thread. Thank you.
the only real difference is the transmission and the driveshaft length/hub inserts/rear hexes.

it’s the same springs as ld3m so chances are you’ll want to change them out, depending on your conditions. I would suspect the AE machined pistons work, I think Schumacher have some too. Or check out the VRP pistons. Petit RC has some decent setups for most track types.

alloy servo horn always a good shout - the kit one is a bit rubbish unless you superglue it together.

take a look at the v4 ball diff when the v3 kit one is worn out - it’s so much better and longer lasting.
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Old 09-08-2025 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TobyStephenson
the only real difference is the transmission and the driveshaft length/hub inserts/rear hexes.

it’s the same springs as ld3m so chances are you’ll want to change them out, depending on your conditions. I would suspect the AE machined pistons work, I think Schumacher have some too. Or check out the VRP pistons. Petit RC has some decent setups for most track types.

alloy servo horn always a good shout - the kit one is a bit rubbish unless you superglue it together.

take a look at the v4 ball diff when the v3 kit one is worn out - it’s so much better and longer lasting.
Thank you
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