FYI I have tons of the Kyosho V One RRR 1/10 stuff unbelievable amount lots and lots of new in the bag items Bodies chassis 3 rollers will make a killer deal if anybody need's it !
Call me
Jeff Epperson
404-886-8120
ATL Area

$250 for everything Kyosho V One RRR Ton's of stuff call me for photos Jeff-404-886-8120

A little bit update here though its a different car.
Have OS 12TG v3 and savox servos, foam tyres, diffs on both ends, sway bars and this car is quite surprisingly faster than my Inferno GT with Picco P3X .21 and 4deg caster blocks and rubber tyres on track. Next trying the optional gearing:
- 21/26 (stock)
- 22/27
- 23/28 (28t is a HPI r40 gear, not avail from K)
spur
- 46/41 (stock)
- 45/40
edit: tested & approved 👍👍

Ran the Evo3 at KO Propo race in Miami car is definitely is a contender,my second time racing in 10 years wanted try something different , only change I recommend believe is the front sway bar definitely to hard, I ordered the 1.4 and 1.6 front sway bars ,the rear was a medium sway bar.Have to say car was super easy to build.

Looks really good!

I'd love to hear some thoughts on the stock Kyosho clutch and 2-speed transmission for this car.

This is my first nitro car with a 2-speed transmission. I built it per kit specs. How do I know it's working, and what are some reasons one would make adjustments to it? It appears it can be adjusted without taking things apart: there are holes on the bell to do so, but you're doing it blind. I know it's a trial and error process, but curious what others have done with it to dial it in.

For the clutch, I built it per kit specs too, with the "sponge tire" configuration. My first drive didn't go too well. The clutch wouldn't engage until the engine RPMs were way too high for my comfort level. What I was expecting was for the car to start moving forward like a real car when I pulled the throttle. I went back to the bench and loosened the spring a bit. It took a few tries to finally get the car to do what I wanted, but the spring had to be really loose, with the spring nut much looser than kit spec. I also noticed way too late, that maybe you don't have to take the engine off the car to adjust the spring. There are holes in the clutch bell too. Any comment on that?

What a great kit. The usual Kyosho high quality, and I just love their manuals and how the read compared to others, like Associated's

you’ll know the 2 speed is working because you’ll hear the switch.
I like the clutch. It’s hard to say what’s “wrong” or why it won’t engage how you want. Could also have the engine running real rich which won’t engage the clutch if the rpm’s aren’t there

Adjustments to clutch and gearbox are needed to suit the track, also when different gears are used it will affect the shift moment.

Regarding the clutch, probably you have set a too large gap, the gap is the distance of the shoe to the clutchbell and requires the right way of measurements and shimming. Look up the Youtube video by Michael Salven about the Centax clutch.

impalabob,

Since you just did your build, did you have any issues with your diffs leaking?

I noticed diff fluid accumulating on both front and back belts, so I ordered some new O-rings and rebuilt the diffs and that seems to have fixed it.

Looking at the design, it’s easy to not get the O-rings in the right position, and easy to mix them up. Good thing Kyosho still supports parts for this car.

Another question: how much axial play does your clutch bell have? The spec shows that there should be some. Design-wise, any thoughts on why Kyosho wants axial play on the bell? I’d think there shouldn’t be any at all, and that the play would delay engagement of the clutch.

Thanks,
jcalchi

MS isn’t very precise on his clutch build for someone new I think, “and for the nut, honestly I don’t know” haha

To OP, which engine are you running?
I can give you my settings as a starting point, but as Roelof said, they’re suited to the track I’ve been driving at.

My clutch bell barely has any at all, gotta shim that out.
as far as the diffs, I don’t like diffs haha. I use solid rear axle and a front one-way.

Jeff hammond has really good video. Even gives you an idea on the clutch should be engaging and what to adjust to do in order the shift the engagement point and slip.

The MS video is easy to understand but I have seen plenty of people not following the right directions and have difficulties to understand endplay and gap.

yes I agree, he is clear but IMO to someone that has somewhat of an understanding of clutches already. OP said this is his first so it may not be totally clear to him.

When I look at the R4 manual I must say it is not clear at all. With the drawings no dimensions are given but it is written in the sidebar. Also a gap of 0.4mm is given but that is too low, more like 0.6 is needed to get a decent clutch. Also shimming under the clutchbell is a bit unclear, If I did understand it right you must shim until there is no play but you need play or otherwise due expansion of the clutchbell it will bind itself.