Pan cars are very different from sedans but that doesnt mean they are any harder to dial in. The key is to not expect it to drive like a 4wd TC, and enjoy them for the pan cars they are. F1 has been my favorite class for over 25yrs.

Need a little help- picked up a new X1 25 a couple months back, took my time with the build. I have a clear tweak (1mm left to right).

I have done all I know to relieve it, loosened every screw, flattened the chassis, re- tighten. I’ve removed and rebuilt the rear pod - shifted weight/electronics can’t seem to solve it.

When remove the wheels and leave it on the set up board, it’s flat/straight.

what am I missing?

Loosen the screws in the side rails and see if that helps your issue.

What type of pit board or flat surface are you using? I switched from the pressed board to a tempered glass as the pressed board material will warp over time, and the glass won't.

G353 Schumacher Glass Set-up Board — 997 RC Raceway

Also, I would take a look at the tires and wheels. I know that due to the bigger sidewalls sometimes the tires will give a false reading on tweak. My team has 3D printed a tweak system that takes place of the tires and when I tweak my rubber tire cars that what I use.

You can also take a straight edge (I use a metal ruler) and place the edge of the ruler against the chassis to make sure the graphite is flat.

Hope this helps.....

MUDVAYNE I'm using a Hudy Setup board, and have also had it on a granite slab, with wheels and front wing off, it lays perfectly flat.

I rebuilt the rear pod last knight - tried what Kruss45 suggested as well, no luck is getting it out.

I'll be rebuilding the front end this evening

A few other things to check would be to make sure you have the ride height adjusters the same for the back axle, a collapsed spring or the shims are not equal in the front (more shims above the steering knuckle on one side than the other).

I found the cause of the tweak....the carbon brace on the top of the motor mount, I over looked it when rebuilding the rear pod - I removed it to try and adjust my fan mount, after I put it back - whooosh no more tweak...

Awesome! It's always the little things that get ya

I am also having a tweak issue on my 25 car .5 to 1mm side to side. I have tried practically everything along with having a few local guys at my track double check me on my build and setup. None of us have been able to figure out the issue but it causes about a 60g side to side difference on the tweak. Just trying to see if anyone else has had this issue and how they resolved it. I am pretty confident it will require some sort of part at this point I have had the car completely disassembled with no solution. Any help would be appreciated as for now I have gone back to my 24 car.

glad you found it.

I had a similar problem with my X1 25 and I solved it by loosening the screws on BOTH the TOP and BOTTOM of the rear pod. Try it and let us know

I had a similar problem with my X1 25. I solved it by loosening the screws on both the top and bottom of the rear pod. Give it a try and let us know if that’s the problem.

Ya unfortunately it did not help me. I have done that as well as completely disassemble the rear pod and car at one point. It is almost as if a hole somewhere on the chassis is drilled slightly off. The chassis on a flat piece of granite was pretty much perfect with maybe a very slight .1mm lift in the front. I can get the car even side to side using the side spring preload but then the car has a 60gram side to side difference on the front tires which obviously makes it drive completely different right to left.

It sounds like you're using scales to set the tweak. If that's the case, then I would suggest not using those things anymore. I've seen racers chase the perfect setting for months just to get frustrated with no result. I use the coin method (see the link below) and it has never failed me. I also use setup plates that my team has 3D printed as the bigger sidewall on the 10th scale tires will never give you a good reading. Hope this helps...

[QUOTE=MUDVAYNE;16185448]It sounds like you're using scales to set the tweak. If that's the case, then I would suggest not using those things anymore. I've seen racers chase the perfect setting for months just to get frustrated with no result. I use the coin method (see the link below) and it has never failed me. I also use setup plates that my team has 3D printed as the bigger sidewall on the 10th scale tires will never give you a good reading. Hope this helps...




so I’ve done both scales show 60 grams heavy on front left tire and when doing the coin method the front left tire lifts so much later than the right it almost looks like the tire is sticking to the surface.