Awesome!! That should make a huge difference.

CrazyRonny Just keep running laps. Run 5.

For Box Stock there isn't much you can do for rear ride height. I try to get the front of the chassis a little lower than the rear by adjusting the shims as needed on the kingpins. I probably run my cars higher than others. As for tires, I never true the rears. I run Marka 10 or 15 slicks exclusively and just tape or glue them to the wheels and drive them. I do usually true the front tires just enough to remove the shiny outer layer and the middle seam. To be economical, I want as much rubber available when new and run them until they are paper thin. I run PN KS Firm, Mediums or Soft fronts exclusively. I usually start with Medium and then go to Hard of I need more steering or Soft if I want less. I also really like the RTRC front wheels with sidewalls and use them on most of my cars, but can get a similar effect by just putting a layer of CA glue on the tire sidewall, which is what I do on most of my Box Stock cars. Hope this helps! Nice work leveling out your Mini-96. Was it just the start/finish line that was a different thickness, or were other tiles off too?

That does help, thanks!

The start/finish was the worst so I used it for photos. There are at least 3 straight tiles that are much thinner than the rest needing 2-3 (4 sheets thick) shims, and 5-8 tiles that need at least one shim.

After 2 days of 6+ terrible runs, I made these two improved runs back to back on the same set of batteries.

Well Guys the end of the month is sneaking up on us fast! We finally go my parents moved from the farm, which was a huge job, and I WAY overdid it getting the last of the move done. My Mom had a double Mastectomy during the last week of the move so it was mainly me finishing the packing and throwing away of junk. We filled a 20 cubic yard dumpster so full I used the bucket of the tractor to pack it down! Anyway Mom is doing ok, and they already found and bought a new house in College Station. Mean while my right arm is pretty much half asleep from the elbow down most of the time, so my times aren't great. I'm running low 5's with my 90mmRM cars, and high 4's with my 98mm cars. I have a new Jomurema and lexan windows and roof for both of them. Also have a NSX white body coming too. I'm trying out making my own water transfer decals with my ink jet printer, and I'm waiting on coatings to finish them, to see how my paint schemes will lay out. It's been storming/raining here soo much I haven't even tried spraying bodies!
Anyway I'm excited to see all the new drivers and cars running the M96WC!!!
Malave the F1 looks AWESOME!!! I'm looking forward to see how your times drop as you get used to driving it on a small tile track! I went back and read through both this thread and the Mini Z thread to try to find the post where the guy was trying a F1 on a M96, but I couldn't find it. I read so much info when I first got into mini z's then my laptop died with all my bookmarked info. But it looks like it runs it well! I was thinking a AWD was going to be my next addition to my small fleet, but the F1 might fit me more better!
Anyway hope everyone has been safe in this CRAZY weather, and Drive Fast! Drew

Class- box atock
Date- may 16th
Location- Smithtown New York
Race Time- 8:45.42
Fastest Lap- 5.7
Chassis- stock
Body- Audi R8
Wheelbase- ?
Tires- kyosho soft
Motor- stoxk
Batteries- yeah racing
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- stock
Motor Mount- stoxk
Dampener (If applicable)-
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-
Gearing- stoxk
Notes-

Class - Box Stock
Date - 5/31/24
Location - Iowa
Race Time - 337.494
Fastest Lap - 4.180
Chassis - MR-03 MM
Body - McLaren 12C
Wheelbase - 98mm
Tires - PN KS Medium / Marka V1R10
Motor - Stock
Batteries - Orion 750 SHO
Front Springs - Yellow
T-Plate - Kyosho Carbon Firm
Motor Mount - Stock
Dampener (If applicable) -
Dampener Fluid (If applicable) -
Gearing - 7T, stock diff
Notes - New batteries don't seem to make as much of a performance increase as a new motor does. One last minute attempt and took 3.5 more seconds off!

Class - MX5 Narrow
Date - 5/30/24
Location - Iowa
Race Time - 379.828
Fastest Lap - 4.374
Chassis - MR-03 RM
Body - MX5 Roadster
Wheelbase - 90mm
Tires - PN KS Medium / PN KS Soft
Wheels - 0 Offset Narrows x4
Motor - Stock
Batteries - Orion 750 SHO
Front Springs - Stock
T-Plate - Unknown carbon, soft
Motor Mount - Stock
Dampener (If applicable) -
Dampener Fluid (If applicable) -
Gearing - 7T, stock diff
Notes - All I can do with the worst Mini-Z on the worst M96. Kingpin flip. Bouncy rear. I will likely never run this at 90mm again, if anyone wants to buy the body, mount, RM pod, and RM parts.

Hi all, I’ve a question are printed rim’s allowed in the M96WC??


Thanks Walt

I don't have the answer to your question because I'm new here... (But honestly can't see why not)... But I will like to know if you had success with printed rim? I try some print with my FDM printer, but I'm not sure they will be good anought and now I just bought a resin printer (did not tried it yet) that I want to try printing some parts with it like rims, body etc...

First 75 lap run with new Green Jomurema with Lexan Window and Wing. Super happy with this body setup! Glides off walls, low C.G., and over 12 grams lighter with no paint and Lexan Window and Wing, IT IS FAST!!! I had 2- 8+ second laps where I had to reverse when I buried it in the corner, STUPID NERVES in my hand!
Class- Stock
Date-05/29/2024
Location- Central Texas
Race Time- 6:05.154 /365.154 seconds
Fastest Lap- 4.350 seconds
Chassis- PN 2.5W
Body- Green Jomurema- Lexan Window & Wing
Wheelbase- 98mm
Wheels- F- +2mm PN BBS N Yellow / R- +2 PN BBS W Yellow
Tires- F- / R- PN KS-M Low Height Medium N / PN KS-M Radial Soft W
Motor- PN BL 3500Kv
Batteries- Eneloop 800HV
Front Springs- Green
T-Plate- PN #4 Carbon Blk
Motor Mount- PN Multi-Mount
Dampener (If applicable)- PN DDS Both Green springs top and bottom
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)- Dry sanded w/600g
Gearing- 11/54 PN Ball Diff
Notes- Almost new PN KSM Med fronts, almost worn to slicks PN KSM Soft rears. First 75 lap run after building the Jomurema body. The car is dialed in and running very well. It's only limiting factor is my reflexes! Throttle D/R at 90%, Steering D/R at 100%, - Expo at 27% on NB4 Radio.




Awesome to see all the folks here!!! Take Care and Drive Fast! Drew

Welcome Walt! I would think they would be allowed in all but Box Stock, but I'm sure Traveler2 will confirm this. Will be interested in seeing how it goes!

To all that are new to the Challenge, PoorBoy and Traveler2 are the best here, and awesome drivers! DON'T get down on yourselves trying to match their times! Just keep tweaking on your chassis, keeping notes on what works and doesn't, and turning laps! Speed will come with practice. Just concentrate on making the fewest mistakes on each lap and your times will come down, even going slower each lap with no/fewer mistakes will reduce your overall time! Also going to a larger pinion and turning down the throttle D/R make the cars much easier to drive.
Don't be afraid to ask questions and read back in this and the mini-z threads! TONS of good info and you can see what is working for people and not. It helped me with the steep learning curve with Mini-Z's! GREAT bunch of Guys here, and Very helpful!!!
Take Care, Drive Fast, and keep it Shiny side Up! Drew

Removing Steering Play (Slope)
Hi, how do you guys are removing steering and servo play in the MR-03 Mini-Z? What's the point of tuning with .5 and 1 degree front toe in link when you end up with almost 2 degree toe out with all the plays in all the linkage and wheel.
Also about steering, it does not center perfectly so does not track straight everytime, if you just turn left it have a tandency to track left on the straight and same if you just turn right it have a tandency to track right.
Any tuning tips and/or best options parts to use to correct this?
Thank's for your help.

Good question, and welcome CrazyRonny!
The front end slop is to me the biggest drawback to the Mini-Z platform, though once you accept it, and learn how the car drives it isn't too bad. I have tried both Kyosho and PN king pins, both metal and Delrin/Teflon, and the tightest fit for me has been the Delrin. And if going with a Wide front end the PN Alum Lower Arm is NICE! I also like the Kyosho carbon fiber front end braces. They make it a pain to change springs, but seems to tighten things up a bit. Good Bearings help too. You get a lot of slop in bearings at this scale. I like Avid Bearings and get the best performance on 3mm shaft front knuckles like PN Low Down Knuckles.
I'm about to try a PN Alu Tie Rod to see if they help any, but doing all of this tightens up things some, but there's still A LOT compared to larger scale RC I've been involved with. I have almost pulled the trigger on a PN AA Arm front end, and those who have them say they are pretty tight, but you still get the slop between the servo arm, tie rod, and knuckles, which is where most of the side to side slop is.
I'm no Engineer, so I have wondered if the slop is built in to calm down the twitchiness in the steering. Those with the 28th scale pan type cars can chime in weather or not the tight tolerances of those kits help or hurt with control.
As for the tracking left to right, yes they all seem to do it somewhat, though my PN 2.5W chassis seems to do it the least and only under very hard throttle input. You can dial out most of it with a CPU Radio. Speaking of Radios the best thing I have bought for my 4 Mini-z's is a Noble NB4! You can do so much with them, and they make you feel much more connected to the car!
PoorBoy has a lot of cars with many different frontends, and can tell you the plus and minuses of them. I really want the PN AA Arm front end for the ability to easily and quickly adjust it for different track layouts, but the cost has kept me from getting one, yet.
Hope this helps, Drew