I will give that a shot, before putting the 3k in I did have just normal 40WT oil in and performed the same way, but thanks for the suggestion. i will give that a shot.

Got the TT-02R built up yesterday during a snow storm......took ~6hrs, not too bad. Body pained up decently etc.

Went to the track today along with a practice session for my TLR and I at least got the TT-02 going, confirmed things work etc. BUT......damn on black carpet this thing has a TON of oversteer. Played with the basic spring shims but nothing really "cured" things so I need to shake that out. Running the stock tires right now...........so there is that. The track runs a spec tire for TT-02 so I need to really wait until I get those on but clearly I have some work to do.

For a cheap little kit it will be fun to run with the others.......

I'd definitely have a look at how tires are being worn over the surface. I don't have all the info on your type of surface and track layout (open long radius or tight corners, etc).

Going out on a limb, I'd probably reduce the camber all around first, and see how that affects. These chassis do not require much of it to work well, in most cases.

Hard to judge without seeing the car, but definitely start with dialing your camber and toe back closer to neutral.. I run .5 camber in the front 1 in the back.. 2.5 degree toe in on the rear, 1.5 tow out at the front.. have one of the experienced drivers run your car, they will be able to help.. I do find that I have to power through corners whenever I use a spool in the front, it’s a little counter intuitive but you have to get on the throttle to make it turn.. if you let it roll, turn radius will definitely be a lot wider..

Once you get the spec tires.. if it still oversteers, it’s time to work on tire prep.. glue the fronts.. get the traction compound dialed in.. check with the locals at the track, they will have it all figured out 🤙

I ran TCS this weekend here in Omaha, and Vu was there so was able to pick his brain on this as well and you and LordSchnert (Comment below) were spot on. He suggested i reduce negative camber and reduce toe out. After going to 0 camber (which is stock using the non adjustable) and going to recommended steering link length which gives about .5 degree of toe out, i had an oversteer. I ended up going to -1 camber all the way around that really helped dial things in. I ended up getting 3rd overall in ProSpec after the triple mains. Another big change i made was went back to the long wheelbase and ran the Ford GT body rather than the Porche body. It seems to be not as top heavy and provided better results. Thanks again for all the replies. I feel it is much better but still needs a bit more tuning but its competitive now.

Thanks.

Today I got the ride height to a decent starting spot of ~5.5mm rear and 5 mm front. I put the middle spacer on the front CVAs for now as with nothing the front was ~4.25mm.

I also need to pull the front steering links and shorten the ends to get them tighter as right now I want to get them to either neutral or slight toe out, right now I have slight toe in by 3mm so probably a couple degrees........

I did however grab a weight and balance snapshot.......with body on.

Correct.. it actually says to cut them in the manual, alternatively you can use the 5mm short rod ends (50797).. getting rid of the front toe-in will make a huge difference 🖖

It does state to cut off 2mm......however I wanted to see what the result was "as is"......I also kinda shake my head at directions like that. If the turnbuckle is too long for proper setup, adjust the part.....don't ask me to do it......Thanks for the alternative part # as well.


I do agree with you 100% that dialing in some toe out will help with the darting and possibly the oversteer. The real trick for me will be to get the spec tires and see where we are. The stock tires were stepping out on acceleration in a straight line, not just turns.

EDIT: Turnbuckles have been shortened to 37.75mm on both sides for now giving me some decent toe out. Will try it out at the track tomorrow......

Assembling a TT-02 with RC Screwz hex head set... The M3x10mm are too long for many of the holes. Not only that, they have 2.0mm hex sockets (pockets?) rather than the 2.5mm I think is more common on M3 screws. The 2.0mm are highly prone to stripping. Pulled some M3x8 cap head screws out of my electronics parts drawer and they fit MUCH better. The cap head may or not be a problem in any location but I can't see an issue yet.

I am not very happy with this screw set especially at the cost. I think it was something like $35. For that I at least expect perfect fit and hex sockets that won't strip! It's like $10 ($5? less?) worth of screws, at least pick perfect ones for the kit. Or am I missing something?

edit: Yeah the 2x8mm are even worse screws. They are slightly too long for the holes (at least some of the holes) and they strip really easily. This is NOT at all what I was expecting from such an expensive screw set. It's actually ruined my rear diff!

2mm is industry standard for button/flat head and 2.5mm is industry standard for cap head. I would agree the RC Screwz are junk. The Chinesium stainless they are using seems to be softer than aluminum some how! Make sure you are using high end drivers (MIP are gold standard IMO) and only going finger tight.

I'm using primarily Wera drivers. I have a few made in USA (forget what brand) on my bench for smaller sizes as well but I mostly stick to Wera.

Finger tight is impossible when the screws are too long for the holes... They are basically worthless screws.

Quick question. So my son has a euro truck, but he wants to get into tc racing. Is the TT02R a good kit to start off with? And what options would be good to get camber and tow inline. Also im also swapping out the brushed for a more efficient 25.5 brushless system. Dont want to get to crazy with it. Also what tamiya shocks would I need to purchase.

If you're looking for Tamiya and brand new, the R is a good affordable option. However, I don't think it's so dramatically different than the Euro truck (maybe that's a good thing?). The R comes with oil super mini CVA shocks which work great, so no need to replace them. It also includes adjustable links for toe. If you want to stick to Tamiya and want adjustable camber, you should look at the TT-02 SRX. It's the next real step up before you start getting into the TA08 or higher end Tamiya kits. The SRX is infinitely better than a non-S variant of TT-02, as it comes with more modern touring car suspension with adjustable links and geometry. If you're not tied to Tamiya, then there are loads of affordable options that I've seen suggested across RCTech, including 3Racing, Xpress, and others.

If you're fixated on the TT-02R, then you can get the upper adjustable arm set for pretty cheap that allows for camber adjustment. Seen here:

Tamiya 54874 Adjustable Upper Arm Set / Tamiya USA

Good luck!

Appreciate it. Yeah i dont want to get to crazy with it, just something fun that he can race it the rookie class. Probably just swap all the electronics over from his euro truck and add a car body and he should be good to go. I have spares so I think its a good thing lol.