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Old 12-08-2023 | 07:37 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
It's advertising 288Wh


So using Watts Law --> W = V x A


So


Ah = 288W / ?V


You didn't say capacity or cells of your packs so for example let's say you have 2S packs at 8.4V each


288W / 8.4V = 34Ah or 3400Mah which is practically useless for RC charging.


I recommend investing in a 12V AGM battery from AutoZone instead for around $50
Math check on you amp hours to milliamp hours. But he says 4s and 6s packs, so it is a moot (moo) point.

EDIT: And someone beat me to it.
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Old 12-08-2023 | 07:54 AM
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Thanks for the assist on the math, I've updated the post above to clarify that a 4S pack could get 3 charge cycles and showed that the $50 AGM battery will yield double the capacity for half the price of the power station.
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Old 12-08-2023 | 03:03 PM
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I cannot fathom why anyone would use a DC battery converted to AC power (that's what these Jackery-type devices are) to then use a power supply to convert that back to DC power so you can use a charger that works on DC power. This is absolute lunacy. Just use a DC power source from the get-go and leave the power supply out of the equation. You can buy a decent-sized (WAY more watt-hour) LiFePO4 battery for about the same money. Your charger will connect directly to the battery and you can leave the Mean-Well power supply at home. I don't understand how adding additional and unnecessary components is less hassle than using a battery? Heck, does the vehicle you drive to the field have a battery in it? Why not use that?
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Old 12-09-2023 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by biz77
I cannot fathom why anyone would use a DC battery converted to AC power (that's what these Jackery-type devices are) to then use a power supply to convert that back to DC power so you can use a charger that works on DC power. This is absolute lunacy. Just use a DC power source from the get-go and leave the power supply out of the equation. You can buy a decent-sized (WAY more watt-hour) LiFePO4 battery for about the same money. Your charger will connect directly to the battery and you can leave the Mean-Well power supply at home. I don't understand how adding additional and unnecessary components is less hassle than using a battery? Heck, does the vehicle you drive to the field have a battery in it? Why not use that?
because id rather not use my car as a source for obvious reasons if I dont have to. dont want to short anything on the car or my system, dont need costly repairs.
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Old 12-09-2023 | 04:10 PM
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Still doesn't answer why you don't get a big (car or boat type) battery instead of these convoluted power station thingies...? Internally these also just have a battery, plus some electronics that convert the battery's DC to AC, only for you to plug in a PSU that will convert this AC straight back to DC again with which you then power your DC charger. You pay extra for converting power twice (and inevitably losing some in the process) while ending up with exactly the same type as you started with (=DC). So unless you need that AC power for anything else, it's indeed kinda crazy to do it that way.
So why indeed not just get a battery instead and hook the charger to that directly? You don't have to use the one in the car you drive to the track/field with (but it is a valid option, unless you plan to drain it completely, of course). You can get a simple battery cheaper than these power stations, you don't waste extra money and power by uselessly double-converting electricity. Total power output should not be as much of a limiting factor as well and larger capacities should be available, too. Although capacity will of course drive costs up.

Not even the Amp input limit of the 4010 of 65A would matter on a battery, as even with only a 12V input, that still ends up with max. 780W - comfortably enough for your intended 15A charges (~630W, remember?). Only if you wanted to use even more Amps, 12V would no longer be enough anymore and a source with higher voltage would be required (e.g. two, three or even four 12V batteries in series would work, as the limit for input voltage is 9-50V on the 4010.)
But maybe you should start looking into some kind of generator/alternator instead, if capacity is an issue.
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Old 12-09-2023 | 11:18 PM
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I do parking lot onroad with my brother and his son. we use either 1 or 2 large SLA batteries with a 100 watt solar panel and its good to go all day for the 3 of us running a total of 5 cars. charger pulls up to 15 amps on 2, 2s packs and batteries are fully charged when we leave. no reason to use power supply when charger runs on DC.

this is basically the same size battery that we run. its maybe 1/3 the volume of a car battery. not terrible to carry.
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Old 12-10-2023 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DirkW
Still doesn't answer why you don't get a big (car or boat type) battery instead of these convoluted power station thingies...? Internally these also just have a battery, plus some electronics that convert the battery's DC to AC, only for you to plug in a PSU that will convert this AC straight back to DC again with which you then power your DC charger. You pay extra for converting power twice (and inevitably losing some in the process) while ending up with exactly the same type as you started with (=DC). So unless you need that AC power for anything else, it's indeed kinda crazy to do it that way.
So why indeed not just get a battery instead and hook the charger to that directly? You don't have to use the one in the car you drive to the track/field with (but it is a valid option, unless you plan to drain it completely, of course). You can get a simple battery cheaper than these power stations, you don't waste extra money and power by uselessly double-converting electricity. Total power output should not be as much of a limiting factor as well and larger capacities should be available, too. Although capacity will of course drive costs up.

Not even the Amp input limit of the 4010 of 65A would matter on a battery, as even with only a 12V input, that still ends up with max. 780W - comfortably enough for your intended 15A charges (~630W, remember?). Only if you wanted to use even more Amps, 12V would no longer be enough anymore and a source with higher voltage would be required (e.g. two, three or even four 12V batteries in series would work, as the limit for input voltage is 9-50V on the 4010.)
But maybe you should start looking into some kind of generator/alternator instead, if capacity is an issue.
ya, answered in post #12. did you read it? would you want to carry around a huge heavy battery? the power stations are much much lighter for one. I have an all in one charger solution in a case. It would be a hassle having to get underneath it everytime to unplug the charger and re-plug it back in every time. I may have to. Its an ec5 connection underneath and in the back of the charger. Do they make gator clips to ec5?

Last edited by sn47som1; 12-10-2023 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 12-10-2023 | 12:45 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by biz77
I cannot fathom why anyone would use a DC battery converted to AC power (that's what these Jackery-type devices are) to then use a power supply to convert that back to DC power so you can use a charger that works on DC power. This is absolute lunacy. Just use a DC power source from the get-go and leave the power supply out of the equation. You can buy a decent-sized (WAY more watt-hour) LiFePO4 battery for about the same money. Your charger will connect directly to the battery and you can leave the Mean-Well power supply at home. I don't understand how adding additional and unnecessary components is less hassle than using a battery? Heck, does the vehicle you drive to the field have a battery in it? Why not use that?
right except id have to plug and unplug the charger everytime i field run. its built into a progressiverc case underneath and in the rear of the charger = pita. a/c much more practical. *the whole point of a built in charger case solution is ease of use = a/c. thats 1, 2- is transporting a heavy 12v battery. Who wants to do that? Nobody even you. Look for a lighter option. not seeing how that isnt clear for you. is the lifepo4 lighter?? you have no case so far with transporting a 12v car battery.

Last edited by sn47som1; 12-10-2023 at 12:59 AM.
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Old 12-10-2023 | 12:54 AM
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Can someone answer post #9 for me? Thanks
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Old 12-10-2023 | 03:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sn47som1
right except id have to plug and unplug the charger everytime i field run. its built into a progressiverc case underneath and in the rear of the charger = pita. a/c much more practical. *the whole point of a built in charger case solution is ease of use = a/c. thats 1, 2- is transporting a heavy 12v battery. Who wants to do that? Nobody even you. Look for a lighter option. not seeing how that isnt clear for you. is the lifepo4 lighter?? you have no case so far with transporting a 12v car battery.
And what makes you think to have the same or even more capacity in a small lightweight box with also some electronics inside? Small tip, there are also LiFePo4 car batteries.
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Old 12-10-2023 | 05:47 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sn47som1
because id rather not use my car as a source for obvious reasons if I dont have to. dont want to short anything on the car or my system, dont need costly repairs.

USE A CAR BATTERY! Not your car. Lol.





All that walmart power box thing is going to do is fail in less than one season. Nobody uses them outdoors, for a reason. The first time it rains, or some kid trips over your cord and ninja kicks your setup halfway across the field, you'll be sorry.

Go to your local air field. See what they use.

Get a waterproof fully potted 12v/120v/6amp Guest Marine charger for maintaing the car battery. I use two G31a1000 truck batteries, with removable cap to check fluid levels.

Its not uncommon to chew through an entire g31 in one day. Charging 1/8th scale and airplane batteries.

I use this setup outdoors. If the outdoor track offers power, I still us it. Just plug in the charger to keep the truck battery topped off. I'll be perfectly charged, even when some momo trips the breaker with his compressor.

You can use a smaller battery with 1/10th scale. But I dont, because most dont have popable caps to check fluid levels and keep the battery safe around smokers and kids.

Usually just my cheapo Turnigy charger. But if weather's perfectly nice, I'll get out my Junsi Duo.

As for the weight thing..It's one less rep at the gym each week. Non-issue. Get two batteries, one for each arm, to be easier to carry. Do a few curls on the way to wherever you're marching to.

99% of the time, I charge on my trucks tailgate. Can 4wheel right up to most tracks. Wrench on a pit table nearby. So no carrying anything all season long.
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Last edited by Zerodefect; 12-10-2023 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 12-10-2023 | 10:39 AM
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Sometimes you can lead a horse to water…

if you’re confident in over complicating this with multiple conversions from DC to AC and back again, I’m confident in your ability to connect a positive lead to the positive post and a negative lead to the negative post on your car’s battery and not F anything up.

Lastly, you do realize the device you are looking at contains a battery, correct? It’s just a battery with more fluff. If you get a small LiFePO4 battery, it will last you all day in the field and weigh no more than these Jackery-type devices. Watt-hour to watt-hour, the battery will weigh less than the power station.

If You come on a public forum and ask about doing something a particular way and the overwhelming response is don’t do it this way, your options are to listen or just go do what you’re going to do anyways.
You’re going to want a much larger unit than you are looking at to provide the power you need. Likely something that is physically much larger than and approaching the weight of an automotive battery. Good luck in your search.
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Old 12-10-2023 | 01:26 PM
  #28  
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Of course batteries are heavy (although depending on type, some are lighter - but usually more expensive as well - than others...) And guess what: the more power they have to store, the heavier they get. But that is true for both batteries and these power stations you like so much - which are all too weak (and unnecessarily complicated) for what you want them to do. And they are nothing else than a battery plus some fancy (and in your case utterly useless electronics). In physics, electronics and life in general, nothing is free. So you want power and capacity? It's going have weight. More power and capacity? More weight. There is no way around that.
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Old 12-10-2023 | 07:40 PM
  #29  
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The main point is the OP already have his field charger box made and all wired up. He is unwilling to modify his box (probably spent close to a thousand dollar making that thing just to realized he doesnt need to) to by pass the built in power supply to power the charger directly with batteries. He rather go the convoluted, inefficient way of DC -> AC -> DC and willing to lug around a heavy power station to charge his batteries at the field just so he can show off his "professional looking" setup to his buddies while failing to realized 2 300WH LiFePO4 batteries weighs the same as the power station, has double the available energy compared to the power station, and much more efficient.

With this, I dont know if he realize that he needs at least 1000W 24V power supply from Meanwell to supply enough power to charge a combined 10s at 15A
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Old 12-10-2023 | 09:32 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect
USE A CAR BATTERY! Not your car. Lol.





All that walmart power box thing is going to do is fail in less than one season. Nobody uses them outdoors, for a reason. The first time it rains, or some kid trips over your cord and ninja kicks your setup halfway across the field, you'll be sorry.

Go to your local air field. See what they use.

Get a waterproof fully potted 12v/120v/6amp Guest Marine charger for maintaing the car battery. I use two G31a1000 truck batteries, with removable cap to check fluid levels.

Its not uncommon to chew through an entire g31 in one day. Charging 1/8th scale and airplane batteries.

I use this setup outdoors. If the outdoor track offers power, I still us it. Just plug in the charger to keep the truck battery topped off. I'll be perfectly charged, even when some momo trips the breaker with his compressor.

You can use a smaller battery with 1/10th scale. But I dont, because most dont have popable caps to check fluid levels and keep the battery safe around smokers and kids.

Usually just my cheapo Turnigy charger. But if weather's perfectly nice, I'll get out my Junsi Duo.

As for the weight thing..It's one less rep at the gym each week. Non-issue. Get two batteries, one for each arm, to be easier to carry. Do a few curls on the way to wherever you're marching to.

99% of the time, I charge on my trucks tailgate. Can 4wheel right up to most tracks. Wrench on a pit table nearby. So no carrying anything all season long.
disregard
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