Team Yokomo YZ2 CAL3.1 / DTM3.1 / SO 1.0
#316
You would have to change the hub and axle for another brand, not that there's much point? The Yokomo is not known for blowing out hub bearings. AE use a larger bearing because it's design uses that bearing to retain the CVA pin.
#317
Tech Addict
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 662
From: Phoenix, AZ
What Will said.
But, if you wanted, you can probably run the B6 hubs on a Yokomo, as they do share some common design DNA.
You would need to buy, at a minimum, the AE hub (ASC91857), the AE axle (ASC91859), and the AE Hub Insert (ASC92179), along with the CVA pins (ASC91438), plus two 10x15x4 bearings, and two 5x12x4 bearings for the axle. I believe the rear hub link that the turnbuckle mounts to is the same size between the Yokomo and the AE, but if not, you may need ASC92180 as well.
You can consult the Team Associated Manual (interestingly, also on page 14) here...
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...-6-21-2023.pdf
But, like Will said, bearing life has never been an issue with Yokomos, so the only real reason to spend the money to convert to this style of hub and bearing, would be for the sole purpose of being different. It is not necessarily "better".
But, if you wanted, you can probably run the B6 hubs on a Yokomo, as they do share some common design DNA.
You would need to buy, at a minimum, the AE hub (ASC91857), the AE axle (ASC91859), and the AE Hub Insert (ASC92179), along with the CVA pins (ASC91438), plus two 10x15x4 bearings, and two 5x12x4 bearings for the axle. I believe the rear hub link that the turnbuckle mounts to is the same size between the Yokomo and the AE, but if not, you may need ASC92180 as well.
You can consult the Team Associated Manual (interestingly, also on page 14) here...
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...-6-21-2023.pdf
But, like Will said, bearing life has never been an issue with Yokomos, so the only real reason to spend the money to convert to this style of hub and bearing, would be for the sole purpose of being different. It is not necessarily "better".
#318
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 35,028
From: West Fargo, North Dakota
#320
BigBuckORamma ,
i wanna ask, whether we can use the large & smaller bear design rear hub for these buggy
i wanna ask, whether we can use the large & smaller bear design rear hub for these buggy
#321
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 190
looking for someone to elaborate on these rear suspension bushings to adjust toe etc. in the manual it has a chart but only using the one bushing for the rear front suspension mount. looking at various setup sheets I see several different combo's. how do you determine what is the toe and anti squat for instance on this setup?
site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2x3_LeeMartin_SEMCC202111114/
site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2x3_LeeMartin_SEMCC202111114/
#323
Tech Addict
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 662
From: Phoenix, AZ
looking for someone to elaborate on these rear suspension bushings to adjust toe etc. in the manual it has a chart but only using the one bushing for the rear front suspension mount. looking at various setup sheets I see several different combo's. how do you determine what is the toe and anti squat for instance on this setup?
site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2x3_LeeMartin_SEMCC202111114/
site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2x3_LeeMartin_SEMCC202111114/
The static setting on the car is 2 degrees of anti squat, and 3 degrees of toe.
Each pill will adjust these numbers up or down by one half, or one whole degree.
So in the case of the pill set up you are looking at on this set up sheet, because both of the pill locations are at the bottom, the anti-squat does not change. However, because we are lowering the pivot point, it will affect roll center.
On the front pills, by setting them to the extreme outside edge, we are straightening the angle of the hinge pin, and taking away 1 degree of toe. This brings us down to 2 degrees total toe.
Then on the rear pills, by moving them fully inward, we are straightening the hinge pin out further, this takes away another degree of toe in, and brings our total toe degrees down to 1.
So know your static 0/0 set up on the car, and then look at the inclination of the hinge pin, and whether the pill change increases or decreases that angle. And then add or subtract .5 or 1 degree from that static setting. And you will figure out your toe, and antisquat settings.
#326
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,596
From: East Atl Metro Area
I found the kit setup to be a very good starting point. I don't know if the SO 2.0 kit setup is very good but my CAL3/DTM3/SF2 were pretty good on my local tracks with the kit setups.
#327
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 35,028
From: West Fargo, North Dakota
Also what are the go to tires to use on the track?
biggest thing on the 12mm based shocks I liked was using AE V2 springs, Yellow and Red fronts, and Blue and Yellow rears are great to have in the pitbox. Also if you don't to modify the plastic crosspin pickup the aluminum ones and go 2 gear setup.
#329
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 35,028
From: West Fargo, North Dakota
Yeah gotta figure out if the chassis changes and shocks will be a win on what you race. Those will probably be the big $$$ items on the new car. The MO 2.0 looks to have a a variety more changes to it so curious to see how it perfoms.
#330
https://youtube.com/watch?v=d_LSdbf1...DvMhu5MyWqgUqC
Here is local track . Plan on runnig indy 2wd
buggy. Car has a 75 spur currently. Any ideas for gearing starting point? Reedy 17.5+ 5k lipo.
Here is local track . Plan on runnig indy 2wd
buggy. Car has a 75 spur currently. Any ideas for gearing starting point? Reedy 17.5+ 5k lipo.





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