Ill be there!

I picked up the '22 X12 and put the Xenon NOS front end on it. I am still thinking about picking up a carbon chassis as well. I should have just gone with the Destiny DTY-12. Zen had them in stock earlier today, but it looks like they sold out.

I think I'd consider the Schumacher E4 with an E3 carbon chassis before going to the Destiny. Similar design, but you get independent damping fore-aft and side-side on the pod plus parts availability would be World's better on the Schumacher. One of the worst things about owning a boutique car is the concern of when and where you'll be able to find parts next and once they discontinue the car, they stop making the parts that don't carry over to the next generation chassis. That's one of the issues with Roche, despite becoming more of main-stream brand in on-road... finding parts for previous generation cars is a pain. CRC is a jewel about supporting the older chassis and reusing existing parts on new cars. Xray is very good at this too, but I feel like I need to take a loan out when it's time to buy parts.

what was your reasoning / thinking for this? and when the NOS over the Pre'21 X12 front end?

Has anyone else tried using a soft downstop in their main shock? Like a few o-rings or an internal spring? I have a hunch that it could give a softer transition between on and off power.

I wonder how often the shock raises to full extension? I know that we set droop as a tuning aid, but how many corners will we really get that much rear to front weight transfer? Maybe a tight corner at the end of a straight or sweeper and once in a higher speed section of the infield? I've never studied it or run a camera to see. Just curious.

The center pivot is actually compressed during entry into the corners as the car scrubs speed and the weight tries to shift forward. It goes to neutral then to full extension as the car transitions to mid corner and exit under power as the motor torque causes the motor to try to "climb" the spur gear, lifting the center pivot. The entry to the hardest corner is the spot where the center is most compressed, or possibly an off-power high speed sweeper.

So basically after every slow speed corner when throttle is applied. An o-ring is probably easier to do than a spring. Many 1/12th shocks will not have that much down travel built in.

I've run with no center spring at all. Just some stiff fuel tubing to set ride height and enough up travel for "droop". Great for tracks with only 180s where you're either fully off throttle into a corner and then full out. Gets goofy through flowing sections. A fuel tubing bump stop is useful if you have hard braking in mod. Makes the car turn in really hard.

I understand what you mean. I once tried a turnbuckle instead of a shock on a carpet car, and it was okay, not faster than the car with the shock and clearly bouncy in some areas, but as long as you can keep the car from bottoming out and keeping the weight on the tires it's a tuning choice and not magic.

Dose anyone have a Trinity Slot-machine 13.5t setup for 1/12th gearing, timing, rotor suggestions?

I would start with the stock rotor, 40 degrees of timing, and 70mm rollout.

Anyone have a US source for an XRay X12 '2023? Everywhere I look they seem to be out of stock yet Europe they are in abundance (US and Eur spec).

Thanks

Did you check Michael's hobbies? Says they have 2 in stock.

Nothing but good things to say about these Team Scream Lowrider motors. Plenty of scoot, very lightweight, and has a nearly perfect balance in a CRC pod.

Time for a couple new 1s packs apparently. What’s everyone liking for low IR high C packs? I tried a search and there was nothing more recent than 2009. Direct experience only please.