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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 01-28-2022 | 07:34 AM
  #3076  
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Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen
You are quite correct there. I've been looking at that titanium set for awhile now lol.
This is actually something I ended up putting into all my cars (except my SCX - so far). My Off-Roaders get the full titanium screw sets and On-Roaders get aluminium/titanium sets (with the aluminium screws in the correct color (light blue for my Tamiyas and orange for my Xrays). Love the looks, and it reduces weight by quite a few grams, if you replace all screws (whether it's really worth the cost just for weight reduction...? Probably not. But that plus looks... for me it's totally worth it, even when made (good natured) fun of by my fellow club racers sometimes .)
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Old 01-28-2022 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by DirkW
This is actually something I ended up putting into all my cars (except my SCX - so far). My Off-Roaders get the full titanium screw sets and On-Roaders get aluminium/titanium sets (with the aluminium screws in the correct color (light blue for my Tamiyas and orange for my Xrays). Love the looks, and it reduces weight by quite a few grams, if you replace all screws (whether it's really worth the cost just for weight reduction...? Probably not. But that plus looks... for me it's totally worth it, even when made (good natured) fun of by my fellow club racers sometimes .)
I'll be honest; I'd be buying for looks haha. Weight reduction is a bonus!
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Old 01-28-2022 | 10:01 AM
  #3078  
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Instead of just talking about it, I should maybe just show my TT-02 Type SR :





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Old 01-28-2022 | 06:52 PM
  #3079  
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Originally Posted by SteveM
This hobby can be addictive at times, there is no doubt. My TT-02 White Special started box stock but like most people I was unable to resist the allure of the blue bits. I went for the Yeah Racing parts as they are less expensive than Tamiya but work just as well. Mine has the steel front & rear joint cups, steel CVD's, alloy ball bearing steering, alloy main shaft joints, alloy front and rear upper adjustable arm sets, adjustable motor mount, solid axle diff insert, front upper bumper plate, a set of threaded blue shocks, and a set of 3 degree rear hub carriers. I did use the blue Tamiya center shaft and the Tamiya High Speed Gear adapter, plus a set of VBC Racing clamping wheel hexes. I also had a spur gear cover 3D printed so that I can use larger pinion gears needed when running brushless motors. I topped it off with a McCallister Mustang GT body and have a set of Gravity RC USGT tires mounted.

With all local R/C racing cancelled due to the pandemic, she sits on a shelf waiting for better days ahead. Seems silly I admit but I am weak.
🤣😂🤣😂

I had enough spares to make a basic TT02 for display purposes. It has now evolved into a house guest TT02 for my sons best friend. Pretty soon it will have some blue crack
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Old 01-28-2022 | 07:11 PM
  #3080  
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That's a beauty, Dirk!!
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Old 01-29-2022 | 05:27 AM
  #3081  
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Originally Posted by DirkW
Instead of just talking about it, I should maybe just show my TT-02 Type SR :



That thing is beautiful!
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Old 01-29-2022 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Raman
🤣😂🤣😂

I had enough spares to make a basic TT02 for display purposes. It has now evolved into a house guest TT02 for my sons best friend. Pretty soon it will have some blue crack
So I guess those nylon bushings lasted long eh? LOL
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Old 01-29-2022 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen
So I guess those nylon bushings lasted long eh? LOL
LOL! They’re still on there lol.. but my sons type S is due for a bearing refresh after 6 years.. so I’ll toss those onto the guest TT 🤦🏻
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Old 01-29-2022 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Raman
LOL! They’re still on there lol.. but my sons type S is due for a bearing refresh after 6 years.. so I’ll toss those onto the guest TT 🤦🏻
Try this.

80% silicone bearing oil mixed with 20% PB Blaster Graphite spray. Soak for 24-48 hours and agitate the mixture every few hours, or when you remember.

Now you've got sealed bearings that clean themselves. So smoooooth.
When I was younger I used to use the Graphite lubes on my BMX bike bearings. I felt like it made me faster
It definitely made the bike coast a longer distance.
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Old 01-29-2022 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Willy
Man, I was buying a TT02 Type S online, and turns out they were sold out but still listed. I got to thinking- the cost of the type S is like 45 bucks off the price of the TA08 Pro, not counting the traditional 150 bucks of Tamiya go fast/look fast blue stuff. I gotta ask, why even buy the TT02? Other than TCS races, I don't see the point. Enlighten me, guys.
If you want to go full on, get a real TC. If you want to embarrass people with more money than skill, TT 02 is very capable in the right hands, just don't go down the rabbit hole with mods.

We race this class as a box stock +bearings class. All driver, car doesn't help you and you can't tune to win. Shows who can wheel and sharpens skills because it's all on the person who is driving it. That's the magic, crazy tight super fun racing chassis that comes nearly complete out of the box for the price of a TC ESC. We have more fun with this class and better racing for 1/4 the cost.
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Old 01-29-2022 | 05:30 PM
  #3086  
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Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen
Try this.

80% silicone bearing oil mixed with 20% PB Blaster Graphite spray. Soak for 24-48 hours and agitate the mixture every few hours, or when you remember.

Now you've got sealed bearings that clean themselves. So smoooooth.
When I was younger I used to use the Graphite lubes on my BMX bike bearings. I felt like it made me faster
It definitely made the bike coast a longer distance.
You forgot to add I’ll be high as a kite. Every time I use the PB blaster, my wife reads me the riot act.

Cycling products are awesome for RC.. I use Finish line ceramic dry wax lube on ring gears, suspension arms etc. works great!
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Old 01-29-2022 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Raman
You forgot to add I’ll be high as a kite. Every time I use the PB blaster, my wife reads me the riot act.

Cycling products are awesome for RC.. I use Finish line ceramic dry wax lube on ring gears, suspension arms etc. works great!
Model train stuff too!
Labelle 106 kicks butt. Teflon lube. Use it in all my diffs and spur and pinion. Looks like new every time i check them.

The PB Graphite stuff isn't as bad as the PB Blaster, But I usually spray into a mostly closed container then let it outgas outside.
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Old 01-29-2022 | 05:54 PM
  #3088  
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Originally Posted by dman18t
If you want to go full on, get a real TC. If you want to embarrass people with more money than skill, TT 02 is very capable in the right hands, just don't go down the rabbit hole with mods.

We race this class as a box stock +bearings class. All driver, car doesn't help you and you can't tune to win. Shows who can wheel and sharpens skills because it's all on the person who is driving it. That's the magic, crazy tight super fun racing chassis that comes nearly complete out of the box for the price of a TC ESC. We have more fun with this class and better racing for 1/4 the cost.
We are far, far down the rabbit hole already
For me, I like people to drool over my RC like I do LOL
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Old 01-30-2022 | 12:58 AM
  #3089  
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I just cannot bear it, not tuning my cars (with useful parts, that is.) I look for (potential) performance or durability gains and also good looks - but the latter only, if they don't negatively affect performance. Do these parts really make my car measurably faster with me driving? I dare say: no. Does that change anything for me? Again, no. I just enjoy putting the parts in (usually during the build) and knowing that they are there, looking awesome . It's a hobby after all, it doesn't have to follow a business plan. The only car in my signature that isn't hopped much (actually barely at all) is my Xray SCX. Anything else is hopped up to the max (of what I consider useful, so no aluminium A-arms or such, sorry). Just because I want to. I know, driving in a spec, out of the box class would be fun as well - but even while the driving part is not, the building and owning part would be somewhat boring for me.

Also I'd like to debunk the myth that it's only about the driver in these spec-out-of-the-box classes. In my experience, in any stock or spec class it's also about the tinkerers who manage to get the maximum performance e.g. most free, most efficient drive train, etc.) out of the allowed components. And unfortunately that's often where cheating happens, or at least people acting in a grey zone. In open modified classes, everyone has (more than) enough power. That's where a driver actually makes the most difference, IMO.
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Old 02-04-2022 | 04:46 PM
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There can be some truth to that depending on who and where you race. Mod does also showcase driver skill. But it also costs 4 times as much just to get into.

Our spec class as I mentioned also does that and we don't have too many cheaters, just a good group of racers. Hasn't been a problem and it's ALL driver still. True rewards when you can hit the perfect line and you know it was all you. Driving a slow car fast builds skill.
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