Tamiya TT02 Thread
#2941
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 669
From: Las Vegas
Almost finished with the body food the TT-02 kit I'm giving to my step-dad. He said he's ready to build a kit, but I also know he'd have no patience in doing the body (and, considering I've already spent a good 15 hours on it, NOW I understand what perks mean about Tamiya bodies being "complicated". Anyway, here's what it looks like so far.
#2942
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
Update: The RcAidong steering set helps quite a bit, but still pulling left on acceleration. No random turns anymore though, so that's a plus. Going to work on some turnbuckle adjustments to maybe dial in the left pull on acceleration.
And I'm still not great at driving and I busted a rear wheel knuckle skidding out into a curb - ooops! so I ordered the YR 2 degree rear knuckles to replace the stock ones. Practice sure is fun!
Next up: I'm looking at replacing upper/lower front arms, front knuckles, and putting in the u-joints all around.
These things are a blast to drive and the number of parts options are great for being able to get it all fixed up and back out again quickly.
And I'm still not great at driving and I busted a rear wheel knuckle skidding out into a curb - ooops! so I ordered the YR 2 degree rear knuckles to replace the stock ones. Practice sure is fun!
Next up: I'm looking at replacing upper/lower front arms, front knuckles, and putting in the u-joints all around.
These things are a blast to drive and the number of parts options are great for being able to get it all fixed up and back out again quickly.
So I found an issue with my rear diff, one of the internal gears that seats the drive cup rounded out, I had JB welded the diff. Still locked, but one side wasn't spinning like the other. This was causing it to pull left HARD under throttle. Slapped a fresh open diff in from my rally chassis and it's about as straight as an arrow again.
I'm still running YR lower arms, shock towers, front hubs and NHX rear hubs. Haven't bent the lower arms but it doesn't take much to bend the rear hubs. I've had the Tamiya 3° hubs bent, and the YR 2° hubs bent in the rear. The NHX I bent, but luckily had enough machinist tools to bend it right back.
Almost finished with the body food the TT-02 kit I'm giving to my step-dad. He said he's ready to build a kit, but I also know he'd have no patience in doing the body (and, considering I've already spent a good 15 hours on it, NOW I understand what perks mean about Tamiya bodies being "complicated". Anyway, here's what it looks like so far.


Nice!
I'll have one soon as well. Have some 48p gears on order to go faster on 2s, if running on 3s doesnt kill it haha.
I was going through the chassis and found one of the rear drive cups rounded off in the gear in the diff. Popped another open diff in from my rally TT02. I tossed in the WR02 open metal gear diff in the rally car for now.
I'll have my adjustable upper arms today and the YR adjustable rear toe plate tomorrow.
I'll have one soon as well. Have some 48p gears on order to go faster on 2s, if running on 3s doesnt kill it haha.
I was going through the chassis and found one of the rear drive cups rounded off in the gear in the diff. Popped another open diff in from my rally TT02. I tossed in the WR02 open metal gear diff in the rally car for now.
I'll have my adjustable upper arms today and the YR adjustable rear toe plate tomorrow.
#2943
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 669
From: Las Vegas
Yes...and no. Used standard Tamiya PS & Traxxas ProGraphix paints on the inside. Then, using my scalpel (I don't use X-Acto knives), I carefully...and, very lightly...cut the overspray film around the areas needing to remain 'glossy' (windows, headlights, taillights, front & rear air dams), and packed away the overspray film (except in the aforementioned areas. I also left the tape covering the windows, headlights, and taillights on the inside. After that, I sprayed Traxxas ProGraphix flat clear, waited for our to dry, and finally removed all (exterior) overspray film & (interior) tape. Just a standard "trick" for creating 'flat' paint jobs. My custom-painted Losi Baja Rey body, as well as both of my Spec Slash bodies, have all received the same treatment.
#2944
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
Yes...and no. Used standard Tamiya PS & Traxxas ProGraphix paints on the inside. Then, using my scalpel (I don't use X-Acto knives), I carefully...and, very lightly...cut the overspray film around the areas needing to remain 'glossy' (windows, headlights, taillights, front & rear air dams), and packed away the overspray film (except in the aforementioned areas. I also left the tape covering the windows, headlights, and taillights on the inside. After that, I sprayed Traxxas ProGraphix flat clear, waited for our to dry, and finally removed all (exterior) overspray film & (interior) tape. Just a standard "trick" for creating 'flat' paint jobs. My custom-painted Losi Baja Rey body, as well as both of my Spec Slash bodies, have all received the same treatment.
I've retired my GTR34 body and started using my 1991 Audi V8 body painted stock instead. Almost ready just waiting on the mail to come so I can add a little rear toe! Straight enough to try 3s again. Last time it fragged a cheap eBay wheel at like 50something lol. That was a crazy roll and somersault.


Stay tuned for pics of the completed EVO VII Tommy edition rally car. Waiting on a cheap 13.5T to go with the TBLE-04S, Wheels to match, and another high speed gear set.
#2946
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
So this is pretty dumb, but I got the Yeah Racing rear toe plate. And the only way to get less than 3.5 degrees of toe in, you have to grind some rather large chunks off. Even though the instructions show the inside most lines are 1 degree of toe in, there is no possible way to achieve this with the toe plate.
Just thought I'd throw that out there in case anyone was interested.

EDIT- Upon actually trying to use the piece I've discovered that it's only the lines that have been printed wrong. The inside most position appears to be either 1 or zero toe.
I'll throw it on the setup station to make sure.
Just thought I'd throw that out there in case anyone was interested.

EDIT- Upon actually trying to use the piece I've discovered that it's only the lines that have been printed wrong. The inside most position appears to be either 1 or zero toe.
I'll throw it on the setup station to make sure.
Last edited by TurboThirdGen; 11-13-2021 at 05:41 PM.
#2948
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 669
From: Las Vegas
Would be great if our local track (NorCal Hobbies, San Jose, CA) added something like that. On the outdoor track (only Saturdays, except for "big" events which also don't on Sunday), we only have VTA & USGT on a constant basis (the two most popular on-road classes). Technically, 17.5 RC, 21.5 TC, Modified TC, Tamiya Euro Truck, & F1 are also run, but only if there's enough to meet the 'minimum'. There is also a "being what you got" Rookie class...but, no *spec'd* class that's inexpensive, like the Tamiya TT class your track runs.
#2949
Would be great if our local track (NorCal Hobbies, San Jose, CA) added something like that. On the outdoor track (only Saturdays, except for "big" events which also don't on Sunday), we only have VTA & USGT on a constant basis (the two most popular on-road classes). Technically, 17.5 RC, 21.5 TC, Modified TC, Tamiya Euro Truck, & F1 are also run, but only if there's enough to meet the 'minimum'. There is also a "being what you got" Rookie class...but, no *spec'd* class that's inexpensive, like the Tamiya TT class your track runs.
#2950
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 669
From: Las Vegas
What was funny was the numbers for oval and on road. It's a small carpet track and they ran on road in the morning and early afternoon and oval in the evening. They had three TT drivers for on road and they all finished on the same lap. For oval they had seven drivers. One may not have been a Tamiya TT car. My only criticism of the rules is there are too many hopups allowed. Obviously you need bearings, but the cars come with a motor and esc.I still thinks it's a very good idea.
The upgrades I've mentioned are all inexpensive (ok, except for, maybe, the shocks)...but, none of them are truly "performance" upgrades (ok, allowing oil-filled diffs would be a slight "performance" upgrade, but it's also a "handling" upgrade) - they are all "handling" upgrades (except for ESC, which is more of a "reliability" upgrade). Even with the upgrades I think should be allowed, the "performance" of all vehicles is maintained fairly equally, and only the "handling" characteristics are improved...thus, the real 'test' comes down to "driver ability". I guess another way of putting it is, upgrades dealing with "handling" should be allowed, but "pure performance" upgrades would be banned.
#2951
What was funny was the numbers for oval and on road. It's a small carpet track and they ran on road in the morning and early afternoon and oval in the evening. They had three TT drivers for on road and they all finished on the same lap. For oval they had seven drivers. One may not have been a Tamiya TT car. My only criticism of the rules is there are too many hopups allowed. Obviously you need bearings, but the cars come with a motor and esc.I still thinks it's a very good idea.
#2952
Would be great if our local track (NorCal Hobbies, San Jose, CA) added something like that. On the outdoor track (only Saturdays, except for "big" events which also don't on Sunday), we only have VTA & USGT on a constant basis (the two most popular on-road classes). Technically, 17.5 RC, 21.5 TC, Modified TC, Tamiya Euro Truck, & F1 are also run, but only if there's enough to meet the 'minimum'. There is also a "being what you got" Rookie class...but, no *spec'd* class that's inexpensive, like the Tamiya TT class your track runs.
I'm not a serious racer, though, I'm trying to learn, so I'd probably just want to show up for practice laps... maybe run a rookie class- I've never actually raced. I've been meaning to get down to NorCal hobbies for an on-road weekend. It's the closest track to me, but it's still a bit over an hour away, so finding the time at the right time isn't easy. I wish they just left the on-road track set up 24/7.
#2953
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
Took the TT02 out on 3s today. Did really well, till, well it didn't 🤣
https://youtu.be/be0ibqRUbx4
Don't have much room to even do the 58mph it does on my road.
https://youtu.be/be0ibqRUbx4
Don't have much room to even do the 58mph it does on my road.
#2954
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 669
From: Las Vegas
Actually, it's a Spec Slash class. Whereas Stock Spec Slash only allows changes to the pinion (and, maybe, a few other very minor changes...I'm not 100% certain), Spec Slash only requires running the stock ESC & motor, and tires. Anything else you want to change, as far as I'm aware, is "ok". Want to swap in the LCG chassis? Go for it. Want to switch our the (garbage) Ultra shocks for GTRs? You bet ya. Want to change the 2075 servo for something faster/stronger? That's also allowed. Want to replace the plastic shock towers with CF towers (of you know where to get them)? You can do that, too. It's not a 'sanctioned' class.
#2955
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 133
From: Central Florida
So this'll be the second time I'm having to rebuild the Savox servo LOL. It takes a rather large hit to break even with a solid servo horn. Ordered 2 rebuild kits this time.
While I'm waiting on that stuff I threw the new high speed gear set in the rally/drift chassis, and changed the gearing from 19/70 to 23/64 for a pretty decent increase in speed without sacrificing the torque if the torque tuned motor. Took it out and ran through a whole 5200mah 100c 2s drifting on the dusty pavement out front with some cheapo rubber tires. Super fun. Can't wait to finish the decals on the Evo VII body!


While I'm waiting on that stuff I threw the new high speed gear set in the rally/drift chassis, and changed the gearing from 19/70 to 23/64 for a pretty decent increase in speed without sacrificing the torque if the torque tuned motor. Took it out and ran through a whole 5200mah 100c 2s drifting on the dusty pavement out front with some cheapo rubber tires. Super fun. Can't wait to finish the decals on the Evo VII body!







1387Likes
