oh should I get it sensored to prevent cogging or would it just work and how fast do you think it would go from experience with 1/16 scale rc cars and could I put the current motor I have in a any of my other cars (listed in previous post) or could I buy a roller and put in one of those and if so what cheaper roller do your recommend?

A sensorless motor is going to cog. If you don’t want any cogging you will need to upgrade to a sensorless system.

wtf does that mean

ok I have figured out that you’re not supposed to run it without a load know but I tried once or twice (didn’t hurt any thing just got hot fast so I let it down) but it did not cog when I did that why is that? I’m just curious and would a six pole not cog as much I’ve heard that rumor around not sure if it’s true or not.

Some technical details.....

A sensored brushless motor has 3 electronic magnetism sensors that will see the position of the rotor for a feedback to the ESC. The feedback prevents that the rotor will go out of sync with the rotating magnetic field. The main advantage of electronic sensors is that even at 0 rpm they detect position.

With a sensorless system there is also a feedback but that is done by the same coils that makes the motor spin. But it is like a dynamo, the lower RPM it spins the lover voltage is produced in the coils. So at low rpm the signal that is send back to the ESC is sometimes hard to detect by the ESC and will act a bit confused what is translated as cogging.

More poles does not matter, only more magnetism in the rotor or a more turns (lower KV) motor can produce a better feedback signal at the lower RPM range.

supposed to be a ascii art but the translator is malfunctioning lol..

rolf chopa

More poles most certainly makes a difference in low speed control. A 6 pole sensorless will be an improvement over a 4 pole, but not its not as well as a 4 pole sensored motor. Now a 14 pole sensorless motor will actually have better low speed control, more torque, and more drag brake then a 4 pole sensored motor. But it'll be slower, and it's an outrunner, so being paired with the more common escs (castle's sw4, or mamba x, or the copperhead) it's got a high pitch whine to it. Unfortunately for the OP, there's not much options on brushless for such a small rig. Holmes hobbies makes 380 sized revolver (brushless sensorless outrunner) designed specifically for these sized rigs, and then there's Fury tek (not sure on spelling) but I believe they are more for the 1/24th scale rigs.

ok thanks

ok but what is ascii art?????

Hang in there

thou this is transposed to jpg.

wow that’s sure is something

Drop the Latrax 28t in there and call it a day. It is better for this purpose than the brushless setup. Put the GoolRC stuff back in the Amazon box and return it. Enjoy the WPL for what it is and stop throwing money away in upgrades.

the position, whether its by hall effect or back emf, is what triggers the esc to generate the field.

More poles does matter depending on your problem. cogging is less of a problem as rpm goes up. so higher pole count creates a higher frequency at a lower rpm.

so you can also gear a lower pole count motor to increase motor rpm.

Any method that dampens the induction of movement through magentic force will help. for example.

bad timing

resistance that chops the peaks off of the trapezoidal wave form.

using magnets that aren’t very strong

making strong magnets weaker with heat

Basically a skewed magnet stack.

if one has time..

https://www.machinedesign.com/motors...ushless-motors

And yes I read the whole thing... umm awhile ago, and well more today lol

I am sure most current quality speed controls use current injection however I could be wrong... or current injection can be done in such a manner that is slightly less than bearing torque and may be the answer..