1387LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
04-16-2019 | 01:55 PM
#1952
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,315
From: Chicagoland
Robinson Racing makes .6 mod gears.
04-16-2019 | 07:43 PM
#1955
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 425
Had to grind away some material off the cover to make room for the longer shaft of the 550.
19 tooth tamiya pinion....and she's hot,super smooth.
ground off most of the steering stops,and we have a race car...
those traxxas guys will not know what hit them.
19 tooth tamiya pinion....and she's hot,super smooth.
ground off most of the steering stops,and we have a race car...
those traxxas guys will not know what hit them.
04-16-2019 | 10:37 PM
#1956
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 110
If it's meant to be bright and metallic, back the base colour with silver. If it's a dark colour, back it with black, light colour; white or silver.
For the windows, you can leave them clear, or dust them with some Tamiya PS 'Smoke' for that tinted look.
04-17-2019 | 12:53 AM
#1957
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 45
The only company in the world that seems to use the term "metric 48 pitch" is Robinson Racing and frankly the term is an oxymoron. 0.6 module is the correct name and the gears can be easily found if you search for them using the correct name or "0.6 mod" for short.
Fun fact: 0.6mod is ~42.33DP and 48DP is ~0.53mod, just as 1cm is ~0.394" and 1" is 2.54cm
If someone sold you 'imperial' 42DP gears, they would indeed mesh properly with 0.6mod gears.
https://www.engineersedge.com/gear_pitch_chart.htm
Fun fact: 0.6mod is ~42.33DP and 48DP is ~0.53mod, just as 1cm is ~0.394" and 1" is 2.54cm
If someone sold you 'imperial' 42DP gears, they would indeed mesh properly with 0.6mod gears.
https://www.engineersedge.com/gear_pitch_chart.htm
Last edited by nbTMM; 04-17-2019 at 01:13 AM.
04-17-2019 | 04:25 AM
#1958
What base colour are you going with?
If it's meant to be bright and metallic, back the base colour with silver. If it's a dark colour, back it with black, light colour; white or silver.
For the windows, you can leave them clear, or dust them with some Tamiya PS 'Smoke' for that tinted look.
If it's meant to be bright and metallic, back the base colour with silver. If it's a dark colour, back it with black, light colour; white or silver.
For the windows, you can leave them clear, or dust them with some Tamiya PS 'Smoke' for that tinted look.
So I should do silver on the underside?
04-17-2019 | 02:37 PM
#1959
04-17-2019 | 04:35 PM
#1960
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 187
The instructions call for PS-16 Metallic Blue but I think it ends up being too light or too green of a tint. I’ve used PS-59 Dark Metallic Blue with about a couple of coats, then finally backing it with silver. Let me look at my stash at home and I’ll know what I used. I tested the layers on spare polycarbonate to get the layers right. Use the wheel cutouts.
04-17-2019 | 04:52 PM
#1961
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 187
You can see in this photo it looks kinda greenish blue towards the front, but the rear fender where the light hits it is a deep metallic blue. The car is actually one uniform color, the light and shadows is what’s giving that effect.
04-17-2019 | 05:04 PM
#1962
My primary concern with painting Subaru blue is matching the rear wing. Tamiya’s released TS-50 Mica Blue specifically for the Subaru WRC cars but that paint is for the styrene plastic parts, not polycarbonate.
The instructions call for PS-16 Metallic Blue but I think it ends up being too light or too green of a tint. I’ve used PS-59 Dark Metallic Blue with about a couple of coats, then finally backing it with silver. Let me look at my stash at home and I’ll know what I used. I tested the layers on spare polycarbonate to get the layers right. Use the wheel cutouts.
04-22-2019 | 04:23 AM
#1965
I keep hearing people talk about how the Tamiya connectors aren’t made for 2S LiPo batteries and should be cut off and new connectors should be added
Is this easy to do? Should I just go ahead and replace the motor and ESC as well with new style connectors installed instead? Or is the stock brushed motor and ESC with Tamiya connectors fine to use until the motor inevitably fails?
Or am I just being a worry ward and keeping the Tamiya connectors with an adapter for 2S LiPo batteries will work just fine?
Is this easy to do? Should I just go ahead and replace the motor and ESC as well with new style connectors installed instead? Or is the stock brushed motor and ESC with Tamiya connectors fine to use until the motor inevitably fails?
Or am I just being a worry ward and keeping the Tamiya connectors with an adapter for 2S LiPo batteries will work just fine?
Last edited by Hoyle33; 04-22-2019 at 05:38 AM.