1188Likeswtcc's TT-02 KR
04-06-2019 | 10:28 PM
#152
No no, it is simple: I draw 2.5mm core holes for the parts in CAD. The then printed parts come from Shapeways with core holes. At home I use a simple M3 buttonhead screw to make the thread. I just screw in the M3 screw. This way the thread gets stronger, because the plastic gets compressed and a stronger thread is formed.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
04-06-2019 | 11:44 PM
#153
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
No no, it is simple: I draw 2.5mm core holes for the parts in CAD. The then printed parts come from Shapeways with core holes. At home I use a simple M3 buttonhead screw to make the thread. I just screw in the M3 screw. This way the thread gets stronger, because the plastic gets compressed and a stronger thread is formed.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
04-07-2019 | 04:10 AM
#155
No no, it is simple: I draw 2.5mm core holes for the parts in CAD. The then printed parts come from Shapeways with core holes. At home I use a simple M3 buttonhead screw to make the thread. I just screw in the M3 screw. This way the thread gets stronger, because the plastic gets compressed and a stronger thread is formed.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
04-07-2019 | 05:28 AM
#156
@Nerobro: That is very kind, but save your money. For me this method works fine and the threads didn‘t fail up to now...
@1/8 IC fan: Shapeways prints my parts with Nylon powder: https://www.shapeways.com/materials/versatile-plastic
The sinter process doesn‘t create a density like injection moulding. So forming the thread with a screw is a possible way. I also just screw the threads on all my ballcups without tapping. Delrin is maybe too strong to do it like that...
@1/8 IC fan: Shapeways prints my parts with Nylon powder: https://www.shapeways.com/materials/versatile-plastic
The sinter process doesn‘t create a density like injection moulding. So forming the thread with a screw is a possible way. I also just screw the threads on all my ballcups without tapping. Delrin is maybe too strong to do it like that...
04-07-2019 | 10:03 AM
#159
Thank you, both! 
The irony is that the blue metal you see on the pictures and the blue metal that comes next week costs more than all custom parts I have ever installed in this car
I had to bite the lemon once more and ordered some more hardware. Some of it is to make the car bulletproof for a race weekend, but most of the money is to get rid of the heavy steel ballstuds and nuts I have everywhere in the chassis. I want a light and agile car for our south german asphalt tracks. This should also lower the c.o.g., because nearly all of the steel is located in the upper quarter of the chassis.
Today I focussed on details:
I aligned the anti-roll-bars and installed the set screws to take out excessive play.
The rear TT-02RR oil filled gear diff got a service and a lot of Green Slime. Unfortunately it still starts to leak after a day of running, but only out of the left outdrive...
In the front the Tamiya double joint cardans got longer axles (46mm), as the 44mm were a little too short. Luckily I had the 46mm axles at home from the KR-MF project.
Then the arms were upgraded with Awesomatix excenter ballheads and adjusted to the right height. While doing this, I had real trouble with the suspension ballcups (again). Two broke and every second had to be squeezed a lot to get rid of bending. There seems to be the need to learn how to work with this part. I thought it would be more easy...
I also installed the ULP shock absorbers. Early next week I will get RC missions short shock shafts. They recommend to use new plastic parts for their shafts, so I installed my SLP shafts to finally see the car in full:
The irony is that the blue metal you see on the pictures and the blue metal that comes next week costs more than all custom parts I have ever installed in this car
I had to bite the lemon once more and ordered some more hardware. Some of it is to make the car bulletproof for a race weekend, but most of the money is to get rid of the heavy steel ballstuds and nuts I have everywhere in the chassis. I want a light and agile car for our south german asphalt tracks. This should also lower the c.o.g., because nearly all of the steel is located in the upper quarter of the chassis.
Today I focussed on details:
I aligned the anti-roll-bars and installed the set screws to take out excessive play.
The rear TT-02RR oil filled gear diff got a service and a lot of Green Slime. Unfortunately it still starts to leak after a day of running, but only out of the left outdrive...
In the front the Tamiya double joint cardans got longer axles (46mm), as the 44mm were a little too short. Luckily I had the 46mm axles at home from the KR-MF project.
Then the arms were upgraded with Awesomatix excenter ballheads and adjusted to the right height. While doing this, I had real trouble with the suspension ballcups (again). Two broke and every second had to be squeezed a lot to get rid of bending. There seems to be the need to learn how to work with this part. I thought it would be more easy...
I also installed the ULP shock absorbers. Early next week I will get RC missions short shock shafts. They recommend to use new plastic parts for their shafts, so I installed my SLP shafts to finally see the car in full:
04-07-2019 | 05:09 PM
#162
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,153
From: Tatooine
Your work is outstanding. From the design, to prototypes, to final results. The research, testing and re-designing paid off.
Congratulations on this wonderful transformation of an entry-model kit to an ultimate tub-chassis modified racer. You're an inspiration to many and hopefully you'll work on other kits too. I'm sure one day, you'll have your own aftermarket modified parts brand for RC kits. Congrats again!
Congratulations on this wonderful transformation of an entry-model kit to an ultimate tub-chassis modified racer. You're an inspiration to many and hopefully you'll work on other kits too. I'm sure one day, you'll have your own aftermarket modified parts brand for RC kits. Congrats again!
04-08-2019 | 10:33 AM
#163
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!The shock shafts arrived from Canada. The FedEx guy hid the package on a lamp, around 1.8m high. A point where I didn‘t search and didn’t find it at first
I finished the shocks, set ride height, camber, toe, droop and tweak. Everything worked on first try, like working with a normal car. Also the parts geometry is spot on. All shocks are within half a millimeter on their ride height setting nut (I don‘t know the word...). Very cool. It seems I am full of luck with this build.
With tires the chassis looks even lower.
Remember the discussion we had a few months ago? With version 2 I would say the KR loses its TT-02 character by a huge amount. On some pictures it looks like something individual. Well, I don’t mind.
First a look on the RC mission shock shafts:
On the Hudy tweak station:
Low, lower, TT-02 KR v2
