wtcc's TT-02 KR
#152
#153
#154
#155
The time of CAD pictures is finally over. I received all prototype parts and started building and assembling today.



Up to now everything fits better than expected. Just the Awesomatix ballcups for the arm attachment made trouble. Three of five cups fit perfectly. The other two make the arm getting stuck. Oh and one cup fell apart on its first mounting...
I overcame the problem and finished two thirds of the rear suspension and began with the front, too.








Up to now everything fits better than expected. Just the Awesomatix ballcups for the arm attachment made trouble. Three of five cups fit perfectly. The other two make the arm getting stuck. Oh and one cup fell apart on its first mounting...
I overcame the problem and finished two thirds of the rear suspension and began with the front, too.





#156
This will be one of my favourite post if I should ever look back on this project in the future.
The car transformed into something beautiful. Chassis and custom parts just fit together nicely. Somehow both compliment each other and make their counterpart look more technical, more functional, more quality. At least in my eyes. The proportions of the tub match in harmony with the front and rear end. I am very happy:





The chassis looks quite complete already (except for the shocks of course), but there is still a lot of detail work to do.
I decided to minimize the orange colour and to invest in more blue gold. The screws and nuts will be exchanged soon.
The car transformed into something beautiful. Chassis and custom parts just fit together nicely. Somehow both compliment each other and make their counterpart look more technical, more functional, more quality. At least in my eyes. The proportions of the tub match in harmony with the front and rear end. I am very happy:





The chassis looks quite complete already (except for the shocks of course), but there is still a lot of detail work to do.
I decided to minimize the orange colour and to invest in more blue gold. The screws and nuts will be exchanged soon.
#160
No no, it is simple: I draw 2.5mm core holes for the parts in CAD. The then printed parts come from Shapeways with core holes. At home I use a simple M3 buttonhead screw to make the thread. I just screw in the M3 screw. This way the thread gets stronger, because the plastic gets compressed and a stronger thread is formed.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
#161
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,315
From: Chicagoland
No no, it is simple: I draw 2.5mm core holes for the parts in CAD. The then printed parts come from Shapeways with core holes. At home I use a simple M3 buttonhead screw to make the thread. I just screw in the M3 screw. This way the thread gets stronger, because the plastic gets compressed and a stronger thread is formed.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
#163
No no, it is simple: I draw 2.5mm core holes for the parts in CAD. The then printed parts come from Shapeways with core holes. At home I use a simple M3 buttonhead screw to make the thread. I just screw in the M3 screw. This way the thread gets stronger, because the plastic gets compressed and a stronger thread is formed.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
My advise is to never tap a thread in plastic.
#164
@Nerobro: That is very kind, but save your money. For me this method works fine and the threads didn‘t fail up to now...
@1/8 IC fan: Shapeways prints my parts with Nylon powder: https://www.shapeways.com/materials/versatile-plastic
The sinter process doesn‘t create a density like injection moulding. So forming the thread with a screw is a possible way. I also just screw the threads on all my ballcups without tapping. Delrin is maybe too strong to do it like that...
@1/8 IC fan: Shapeways prints my parts with Nylon powder: https://www.shapeways.com/materials/versatile-plastic
The sinter process doesn‘t create a density like injection moulding. So forming the thread with a screw is a possible way. I also just screw the threads on all my ballcups without tapping. Delrin is maybe too strong to do it like that...



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