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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tekno RC ET410 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 11-09-2018 | 02:32 PM
  #616  
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Did you try a thinner front sway bar, or thicker rear?
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Old 11-10-2018 | 12:00 AM
  #617  
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Originally Posted by m59y
I am on high bite clay indoors, running Electrons now which have a bit better grip than the Chainlinks I started with. It is mostly pushing starting the turn. Once the front bites and the car starts to rotate I can steer it with throttle, but need to slow too much to get the turn started. Was thinking of trying to change the front and rear diff oils but not sure which way to go as I have read opposing info; thicker front and thinner rear or thinner front and thicker rear too reduce push. I'm thinking the latter.
what you're describing is an off power issue. the truggy doesn't want to rotate off power into a turn. same issue i was having. running a thinner front diff oil will help it rotate going into the turn.
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Old 11-10-2018 | 07:01 AM
  #618  
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Originally Posted by m59y
I am on high bite clay indoors, running Electrons now which have a bit better grip than the Chainlinks I started with. It is mostly pushing starting the turn. Once the front bites and the car starts to rotate I can steer it with throttle, but need to slow too much to get the turn started. Was thinking of trying to change the front and rear diff oils but not sure which way to go as I have read opposing info; thicker front and thinner rear or thinner front and thicker rear too reduce push. I'm thinking the latter.
My buddy lowered his front and center diff and gained much better entry-mid corner steering. We also lowered the rear camber link on the tower all the way and try to run a short rear link, this will help the rear rotate mid corner and have more rear traction leaving the corner. I'll ask him and see if we changed the swaybars.
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Old 11-10-2018 | 05:04 PM
  #619  
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Originally Posted by trf211
My buddy lowered his front and center diff and gained much better entry-mid corner steering. We also lowered the rear camber link on the tower all the way and try to run a short rear link, this will help the rear rotate mid corner and have more rear traction leaving the corner. I'll ask him and see if we changed the swaybars.
I liked the 1.4mm front swaybar a lot better than the 1.6mm kit swaybar.
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Old 11-13-2018 | 05:39 PM
  #620  
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Added 12 grams to the rear. I also shortened all my wires to reduce weight. Have a big race coming up in two weeks.
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Old 11-15-2018 | 02:57 PM
  #621  
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Hey All, just got the ET, super excited, planning to build this week. Small question, planning to buy Hobbywing SCT combo....I don't know the difference between 3660 and 3652 motor, believe it's size, right? One guy recommended 3652 motor because it's a tad smaller, but another guy recommended 3660 because it has more torque. Planning to run this indoor clay track, OCRC. For ESC, planning to get Hobbywing XR8 SCT Pro. Any advice on which motor to choose.
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Old 11-15-2018 | 04:03 PM
  #622  
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I really hope you checked with your track and know what is allowed in that class?? Tires, motors, ...
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Old 11-15-2018 | 06:01 PM
  #623  
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Originally Posted by SpeedChair
Hey All, just got the ET, super excited, planning to build this week. Small question, planning to buy Hobbywing SCT combo....I don't know the difference between 3660 and 3652 motor, believe it's size, right? One guy recommended 3652 motor because it's a tad smaller, but another guy recommended 3660 because it has more torque. Planning to run this indoor clay track, OCRC. For ESC, planning to get Hobbywing XR8 SCT Pro. Any advice on which motor to choose.
I would go with the 3652, even the 4 Pole 540 size motor still has tons of torque, I've got a NX4-3900KV in mine and it did a wheelie when I first installed it, then I had to dial back the punch on the ESC to 1 so it wouldn't push on power.
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Old 11-15-2018 | 08:14 PM
  #624  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
I would go with the 3652, even the 4 Pole 540 size motor still has tons of torque, I've got a NX4-3900KV in mine and it did a wheelie when I first installed it, then I had to dial back the punch on the ESC to 1 so it wouldn't push on power.
Thanks for the feedback, sounds like power isn’t that much of a concern with either motor.
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Old 11-16-2018 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by trf211
My buddy lowered his front and center diff and gained much better entry-mid corner steering. We also lowered the rear camber link on the tower all the way and try to run a short rear link, this will help the rear rotate mid corner and have more rear traction leaving the corner. I'll ask him and see if we changed the swaybars.
I was able to get back to the track last night and do some tuning to try and get rid of my push. Incremental changes from kit setup were:
  • 20k front diff - much better corner entry but still understeers on power
  • 1.5 front and 1.7 rear anti-roll bars - better mid through exit, too sensitive off power on entry
  • Reduced toe out to ~ 1/16 inch difference front/back - reduced initial steering sensitivity
  • Rear camber links down to 3 washers then down to 0 washers - better rear traction, very noticeable from 6->3, not much from 3->0
  • Front pills A: top outer, B: bottom inner both single dot - improved jumps, especially landings, smoother overall response
  • Green rear springs - better rear grip, jumping, and smoother on stepdowns
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Old 11-19-2018 | 08:46 PM
  #626  
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Highly recommend the Leadfinger Racing body to anyone that loves driving their truggy but can barely stand the sight of the stock body! Very happy with the looks now, and that in itself is worth a few tenths, right??

FastPete and aspiringracer like this.
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Old 11-19-2018 | 11:00 PM
  #627  
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Nice. Way better than the stock body.
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Old 11-19-2018 | 11:23 PM
  #628  
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Edit, wrong thread
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Old 11-24-2018 | 08:24 PM
  #629  
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Anyone else stripping servo gears? I've never had any servo issues for the last three years (was running the Savox 1258TG in my B44.3 and B64D). I'm running the Protek 160T in the ET410 and the crashes I've had so far are no different than what I had with my wheelers. I'm guessing just the length of the arms and larger wheels are putting to much stress on the servo?? Any suggestions (other than don't hit anything)? Thanks for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated!
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Old 11-24-2018 | 08:34 PM
  #630  
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I went with a KO RSX3 Power. Figured it was overkill and that gives me a good feeling. Came out of my 1/8 nitro that I sold off anyway after only one big race.

You’re right, the longer arms and bigger wheels definitely help put more strain on the servo.
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