Tamiya mini cooper
Agree! They’re a mess.
I use X ray springs now.. 2.3, 2.4 marking make sense .. no need to remember on which generation of Tamiya springs yellow meant medium versus hard.
Tamiya should have stuck with red soft, yellow medium, white hard, blue extra hard of old..
I have no clue what rating mean on the left over kit springs from my 419, 419x or TB Evo 6. I’m always tempted to just throw them away and then I stop myself
I use X ray springs now.. 2.3, 2.4 marking make sense .. no need to remember on which generation of Tamiya springs yellow meant medium versus hard.
Tamiya should have stuck with red soft, yellow medium, white hard, blue extra hard of old..
I have no clue what rating mean on the left over kit springs from my 419, 419x or TB Evo 6. I’m always tempted to just throw them away and then I stop myself
Agree! They’re a mess.
I use X ray springs now.. 2.3, 2.4 marking make sense .. no need to remember on which generation of Tamiya springs yellow meant medium versus hard.
Tamiya should have stuck with red soft, yellow medium, white hard, blue extra hard of old..
I have no clue what rating mean on the left over kit springs from my 419, 419x or TB Evo 6. I’m always tempted to just throw them away and then I stop myself
I use X ray springs now.. 2.3, 2.4 marking make sense .. no need to remember on which generation of Tamiya springs yellow meant medium versus hard.
Tamiya should have stuck with red soft, yellow medium, white hard, blue extra hard of old..
I have no clue what rating mean on the left over kit springs from my 419, 419x or TB Evo 6. I’m always tempted to just throw them away and then I stop myself
Agree! They’re a mess.
I use X ray springs now.. 2.3, 2.4 marking make sense .. no need to remember on which generation of Tamiya springs yellow meant medium versus hard.
Tamiya should have stuck with red soft, yellow medium, white hard, blue extra hard of old..
I have no clue what rating mean on the left over kit springs from my 419, 419x or TB Evo 6. I’m always tempted to just throw them away and then I stop myself
I use X ray springs now.. 2.3, 2.4 marking make sense .. no need to remember on which generation of Tamiya springs yellow meant medium versus hard.
Tamiya should have stuck with red soft, yellow medium, white hard, blue extra hard of old..
I have no clue what rating mean on the left over kit springs from my 419, 419x or TB Evo 6. I’m always tempted to just throw them away and then I stop myself
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 105

I acquired this Kose graphite chassis for FB marketplace and sourced the rest from Japan! I get lucky with these older M-Chassis. It's a shame the parts are so hard to come by now.


Does anyone know much about the HPI chassis for the M-01?
Last edited by Autostrada048; 07-02-2019 at 07:20 PM.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 238
From: K-Town
I just got the Yeah racing aluminum steering rack. There is a lot of play in them. Mostly bearing slop. Where and what size shims should I use to fix this? I run a class that is complete stock. No v2s allowed only upgrade is the steering rack and the servo turnbuckle.
Hey all,
Need some help from the M05 V2 Gurus. I have a M05 V II R on black carpet. It rocks! no complaints, I am just about to do my final round of upgrades including the Alum TRF steering and front uprights. My question on the Alum front uprights are which part number should I use? The original is the #54177 but I see the RA #54253 which seems to be the updated unit. On the stock parts Tree in my kit it uses the RA #42168 so I feel like I will be fine just wanted to check before I dropped $30 on them.
Car started off as a M05 V2R #84424 (so motor mount, double jointed shafts big bore shocks, batt holder etc)
Hop ups so far
Tamiya options
-Sway bars
-Heat sink bars (10-15 degree heat after run actually functional)
-Pass side Motor counter weight
-Type S Radial tires up front and Med radials out back (glued outside of sidewall on front all the way to the top)
-Suzuki Swift body (about to change it for a miata which I know is quicker)
-Carbon Rear shock tower
-Upper chassis braces removed
3 Racing options
-Spool (was 18 or 19 grams lighter then stock as well)
-Alum 20T pinion
-Fan mount / Team powers fan
Electronics
-HW 60 Amp esc
-Trinity 24k 21.5
-Sanwa servo
-Orca 8500 120C Pack
I will post pics later, and share some more set up if anyone needs
Need some help from the M05 V2 Gurus. I have a M05 V II R on black carpet. It rocks! no complaints, I am just about to do my final round of upgrades including the Alum TRF steering and front uprights. My question on the Alum front uprights are which part number should I use? The original is the #54177 but I see the RA #54253 which seems to be the updated unit. On the stock parts Tree in my kit it uses the RA #42168 so I feel like I will be fine just wanted to check before I dropped $30 on them.
Car started off as a M05 V2R #84424 (so motor mount, double jointed shafts big bore shocks, batt holder etc)
Hop ups so far
Tamiya options
-Sway bars
-Heat sink bars (10-15 degree heat after run actually functional)
-Pass side Motor counter weight
-Type S Radial tires up front and Med radials out back (glued outside of sidewall on front all the way to the top)
-Suzuki Swift body (about to change it for a miata which I know is quicker)
-Carbon Rear shock tower
-Upper chassis braces removed
3 Racing options
-Spool (was 18 or 19 grams lighter then stock as well)
-Alum 20T pinion
-Fan mount / Team powers fan
Electronics
-HW 60 Amp esc
-Trinity 24k 21.5
-Sanwa servo
-Orca 8500 120C Pack
I will post pics later, and share some more set up if anyone needs
Hey all,
Need some help from the M05 V2 Gurus. I have a M05 V II R on black carpet. It rocks! no complaints, I am just about to do my final round of upgrades including the Alum TRF steering and front uprights. My question on the Alum front uprights are which part number should I use? The original is the #54177 but I see the RA #54253 which seems to be the updated unit. On the stock parts Tree in my kit it uses the RA #42168 so I feel like I will be fine just wanted to check before I dropped $30 on them.
Car started off as a M05 V2R #84424 (so motor mount, double jointed shafts big bore shocks, batt holder etc)
Hop ups so far
Tamiya options
-Sway bars
-Heat sink bars (10-15 degree heat after run actually functional)
-Pass side Motor counter weight
-Type S Radial tires up front and Med radials out back (glued outside of sidewall on front all the way to the top)
-Suzuki Swift body (about to change it for a miata which I know is quicker)
-Carbon Rear shock tower
-Upper chassis braces removed
3 Racing options
-Spool (was 18 or 19 grams lighter then stock as well)
-Alum 20T pinion
-Fan mount / Team powers fan
Electronics
-HW 60 Amp esc
-Trinity 24k 21.5
-Sanwa servo
-Orca 8500 120C Pack
I will post pics later, and share some more set up if anyone needs
Need some help from the M05 V2 Gurus. I have a M05 V II R on black carpet. It rocks! no complaints, I am just about to do my final round of upgrades including the Alum TRF steering and front uprights. My question on the Alum front uprights are which part number should I use? The original is the #54177 but I see the RA #54253 which seems to be the updated unit. On the stock parts Tree in my kit it uses the RA #42168 so I feel like I will be fine just wanted to check before I dropped $30 on them.
Car started off as a M05 V2R #84424 (so motor mount, double jointed shafts big bore shocks, batt holder etc)
Hop ups so far
Tamiya options
-Sway bars
-Heat sink bars (10-15 degree heat after run actually functional)
-Pass side Motor counter weight
-Type S Radial tires up front and Med radials out back (glued outside of sidewall on front all the way to the top)
-Suzuki Swift body (about to change it for a miata which I know is quicker)
-Carbon Rear shock tower
-Upper chassis braces removed
3 Racing options
-Spool (was 18 or 19 grams lighter then stock as well)
-Alum 20T pinion
-Fan mount / Team powers fan
Electronics
-HW 60 Amp esc
-Trinity 24k 21.5
-Sanwa servo
-Orca 8500 120C Pack
I will post pics later, and share some more set up if anyone needs

FYI the shocks that come with the R spec 84424 kit aren't big bore. They're regular bore.
I just grabbed #42168 for my kit shocks



295Likes
