hispeedguy

iTrader: (37)

The Mini class racing is growing at CRC Raceway in Rome, NY. Each week we have enough to fill a Main, last night we had 7 cars. We should have a couple more next week. We're still in the learning stages but last night CRC hotshoe John "Whopper" Firsching borrowed my M05 Pro Mini Cooper and grabbed the TQ and win. Dave Elen has his slightly upgraded brushed M05 RTR Mini Coop working very well too. Ballistic fast, just had some bad luck last night. I've finally relented that I NEED to upgrade the shocks on my RTR M05 Mini Coop from the oingo-boingo friction to oil dampers. Even with the kit cheapie shocks the car is very fast (brushed). Just bounces like crazy in the corners.

Also, Kevin from RC Soup made up some awesome decals for us local Mini lovers. Thank you Kevin, just plain cool!

[IMG][/IMG]

niznai

Just cut with thin Dremel disc.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

oh, man those "friction dampers" are junk. They will make your car drive like a stage coach buggy. My recommendation is the TRF Shocks, -they are pricey but worth it. I got mine for about $60 ...I think they retail around $80, but if you look hard enough you can find them much cheaper.

W/ real shocks you'll also be able to get your car to sit a lot lower and really control the handling. I feel that the kit friction dampers are the first thing you should remove and upgrade. Second is the steering setup, ball diff', and then various weight shaving pieces ...anyway glad that your Mini class is getting a lot of interest. It is a fun class.

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

I just picked up some thin brass strip from the local hobbyshop and cut it to size. A lot easier to work with than razor blades. Below is a link to a picture of the strip.

http://cdn-us-ec.yottaa.net/51c9b1ce...5078_Large.jpg

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Question:
Im seriously thinking about adding an outboard fan to my B/L motor just to keep
the chance of overheating the motor away, plus to add some extra needed weight
This is going on a M03, but there are no accomodations for using a heat sink on the motor and then the fan on top like normal, does anyone know that if I do this it will be TCS legal?
Im guessing yes, but want anyones opinion who has done this
Mike

chef88

iTrader: (75)

Bingo...
Those are ones that I saw.
May try Jamie & Mark suggestions as well.
Thxs

Granpa

Just shoogoo or silicone it right to the chassis. It's TCS legal.

Use the smaller R1Wurks fan. It puts out a ton of air.

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

This is an interesting upgrade, i kind of like the concept, but it's all alloy...

http://www.rcnews.net/2014/10/17/yea...m-upgrade-kit/

Granpa

You are right to have reservations. The suspension arms will bend and screw your handling up. The c-hubs and the front and rear uprights may be okay tho.

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Granpa
Once again you come thru!

Granpa

Glad to be of help. Should have given the dimensions, but the R1 is 30mm, I think. Novak makes a 25mm fan which I've used in the past. Works well, but doesn't move as much air as the R1 and is not as reliable. I'm willing to pay a few extra bucks for reliability or longer life.

ncpantherfan

iTrader: (13)

Where on chassis is the best place to mount?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Alloy itself isn't the problem. It's the soft cheese-like alloy Yeah Racing sometimes uses that is. That said, this is an interesting concept and a real rule bender, (for clubs that allow all hop ups) because it's fundamentally re-engineering the suspension.

I made a brief Instructable about cutting up bits of metal to make shims. Razor blades are only an example, since I have them hanging around.

marcos graveyar

Is the brass not a tad soft, I can see the droop screw hammering a little depression into the brass fairly quickly.

niznai

Yep, that's what made me use steel razors.

You don't need the diamond blade, if anything I think that'll be less efficient. A normal cutoff disc (the thin one) will cut razor blades like cheese. It's actually best to have the blade clamped in something (I have a small bench vice). That'll help with precision. Just aim for an approximate shape (leave extra room to trim after gluing on the chassis).

I finish the sides I can not access after gluing carefully first to size and shape with the dremel clamped to the bench (they sell a special implement for that, but a normal vice is good enough) and then with sandpaper.

Once glued, I finish the overhanging edges of the blade with the cutting disc (if there's a lot to cut) or just with a sanding drum (the fine one) until flush with the chassis. Looks quite professional that way.