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Old 04-11-2018, 12:41 PM
  #29746  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Off topic: Have you got a reliable source for Race-Opt or MTS stuff? My FF needs some love.
Jim email me what you need for you FF.
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Old 04-11-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
Jim email me what you need for you FF.
Late summer probably. Put all my carpet toys away.
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:28 AM
  #29748  
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Had fun with my M05 shoe car, 200K diff was a handful to drive

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Old 05-08-2018, 07:13 AM
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I just got the Yeah racing aluminum steering rack. There is a lot of play in them. Mostly bearing slop. Where and what size shims should I use to fix this? I run a class that is complete stock. No v2s allowed only upgrade is the steering rack and the servo turnbuckle.
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:31 AM
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I found the stock plastic stuff to have less slop than the yeah racing rack. I've been unable to get rid of most of the slop.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:34 AM
  #29751  
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Hey all,

Need some help from the M05 V2 Gurus. I have a M05 V II R on black carpet. It rocks! no complaints, I am just about to do my final round of upgrades including the Alum TRF steering and front uprights. My question on the Alum front uprights are which part number should I use? The original is the #54177 but I see the RA #54253 which seems to be the updated unit. On the stock parts Tree in my kit it uses the RA #42168 so I feel like I will be fine just wanted to check before I dropped $30 on them.

Car started off as a M05 V2R #84424 (so motor mount, double jointed shafts big bore shocks, batt holder etc)

Hop ups so far

Tamiya options
-Sway bars
-Heat sink bars (10-15 degree heat after run actually functional)
-Pass side Motor counter weight
-Type S Radial tires up front and Med radials out back (glued outside of sidewall on front all the way to the top)
-Suzuki Swift body (about to change it for a miata which I know is quicker)
-Carbon Rear shock tower
-Upper chassis braces removed


3 Racing options
-Spool (was 18 or 19 grams lighter then stock as well)
-Alum 20T pinion
-Fan mount / Team powers fan

Electronics

-HW 60 Amp esc
-Trinity 24k 21.5
-Sanwa servo
-Orca 8500 120C Pack

I will post pics later, and share some more set up if anyone needs
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:00 AM
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Run the RA uprights. The older ones foul the v2 gearbox.
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Run the RA uprights. The older ones foul the v2 gearbox.
Thanks man
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Old 05-14-2018, 03:59 PM
  #29754  
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Originally Posted by DaSilva3525 View Post
Hey all,

Need some help from the M05 V2 Gurus. I have a M05 V II R on black carpet. It rocks! no complaints, I am just about to do my final round of upgrades including the Alum TRF steering and front uprights. My question on the Alum front uprights are which part number should I use? The original is the #54177 but I see the RA #54253 which seems to be the updated unit. On the stock parts Tree in my kit it uses the RA #42168 so I feel like I will be fine just wanted to check before I dropped $30 on them.

Car started off as a M05 V2R #84424 (so motor mount, double jointed shafts big bore shocks, batt holder etc)

Hop ups so far

Tamiya options
-Sway bars
-Heat sink bars (10-15 degree heat after run actually functional)
-Pass side Motor counter weight
-Type S Radial tires up front and Med radials out back (glued outside of sidewall on front all the way to the top)
-Suzuki Swift body (about to change it for a miata which I know is quicker)
-Carbon Rear shock tower
-Upper chassis braces removed


3 Racing options
-Spool (was 18 or 19 grams lighter then stock as well)
-Alum 20T pinion
-Fan mount / Team powers fan

Electronics

-HW 60 Amp esc
-Trinity 24k 21.5
-Sanwa servo
-Orca 8500 120C Pack

I will post pics later, and share some more set up if anyone needs
I second the Ra uprights. The width of the car will change if you mix and match Ra C hubs and knuckles with the regular ones.

FYI the shocks that come with the R spec 84424 kit aren't big bore. They're regular bore.
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
I second the Ra uprights. The width of the car will change if you mix and match Ra C hubs and knuckles with the regular ones.

FYI the shocks that come with the R spec 84424 kit aren't big bore. They're regular bore.
Thanks for the info, I think I assumed big bore because of the color combo but after looking at my TA06 With the TRF 419 Big bore shocks I can see the difference and a quick google search. So the M chassis big bore shocks take a different spring set I would assume? Any chance anyone has the big bore spring kit part # for my owner future knowledge :P ?

I just grabbed #42168 for my kit shocks
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:28 PM
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It seems it maybe be the same springs hmm..
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by DaSilva3525 View Post
Thanks for the info, I think I assumed big bore because of the color combo but after looking at my TA06 With the TRF 419 Big bore shocks I can see the difference and a quick google search. So the M chassis big bore shocks take a different spring set I would assume? Any chance anyone has the big bore spring kit part # for my owner future knowledge :P ?

I just grabbed #42168 for my kit shocks
The M chassis big bore shocks are 42291. They use the same springs as the regular M chassis shocks. The outer diameter is the same, the inner diameter is about 0.5mm wider.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:35 PM
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A friend of mine did the math and it’s amazing what a difference that 0.5mm makes in total volume. They’re really good dampers.

On a somewhat unrelated note, I got big bore shocks for my Slash. They’re skinnier on the outside, but use the same springs and collars as the plastic ones.
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:37 PM
  #29759  
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For anyone interested, there is talk of maybe allowing the new 3 Racing MG Mini to run down in Aus. Probably of zero interest in the US where most clubs are stuck with TCS rules, but it may be a portent of things to come.
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...08778506159148
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:25 PM
  #29760  
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That's a very nice addition to the mini world. It's a shame it probably won't catch on here. There's a 3 way split in our mini world.

1. People who run it because it's fun and can be very cheap, if you want it to be.
2. People who don't take it seriously.
3. People who bitch about mini costing far too much, then turn back to their table of multiple $1000+ bare chassis, and $150+ motors. (all replaced every season, of course.)
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