Some new stuff from Fenix:

To match the CRC wheels, we've released a dedicated version.

Hole pattern is made according CRC instruction and thread is 4-40 unc.



Of course, the hub is available as spare, so you might convert your actual unit to CRC.



For those interested, just send a message to CRC



While working on super thin shims, we've released some 0.2mm shims to fit the rear axle. Rear width can now be more closer to legal limit...

Here is the fix so far. A few extra grams for this Integy Aluminum Servo Saver I had. It's diameter is smaller in the spring and rear spline piece to fit and not have to shim up the servo plate on their posts.

Off topic, but be careful if you switch batteries mid day sometime, that pack has +/- on opposite sides compared to about 90% of the other brands out there.

Thanks for the heads up.

was just browsing through. the sticky up top, the reactive caster is completely wrong. This part:

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"More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance"

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I'd hate for people to be mistaken by this, tune wrong, and be fighting a push, or lifting inside rear tires and not know how to fix it. Basically, more reactive caster =less over all steering.

When grip comes way up, sometimes more reactive is better, as it smooths the car out, keeps the car flatter, and can reduce "hiking" as it pulls caster out as you transition into and through the center of the corner.

Caster is what jacks weight in your car and pulls cross weight out when you turn the wheel. Less caster=less weight jacking.

Maximum steering= 0dg Reactive.

These comparisons are accurate only if static caster remains the same....

Hope this helps.

-Donny

Well, as Donny is a lot faster than me, and I learned my pan car tuning on the worst prepped and maintained rug ever, I would invite anyone who wants to make changes to the guide to do so, especially with black carpet experience being at a premium.

In the times I messed with reactive it seemed to change the steering of the car considerably compared to running 0 reactive, with a considerable 'hook' in the corner, but it may have been caused by other factors.

So I'm hearing guys state that a spool setup can be ran with softer suspension settings... My question is, we're already pretty soft on black CRC carpet so what exactly is going softer on the suspension settings, center spring? oils? front or side springs? Not sure I understand why a spool would allow an even softer setting? I don't find a spool much if any twitchier than a normal high grip setup, so not sure what softening would do...

Congrats Johnny!

First, I wouldn't describe a spool as making a car twitchy. Twitchy, to me at least, would be the car reacting agressively on input. That is actually the opposite to the spool. The spool will cause a bit of off power understeer. Softer springs help transfer the weight the spool is interfering with. Once you roll on power mid corner, the inside tire acts like it breaks loose to give you lots of rotation. If the setup is too stiff, the car tends to loop. And by that meaning turn a 180 before you can even blink. As an example, pre spool at snowbirds I ran .55 front springs, .60 sides, 30k in the tubes and medium center spring. Since the spool I'm on .45 all around, a single tube of 15k and soft center spring. If you were already very soft, you may not need to change much. Maybe more toe out to gain turn in or caster for high speed steering.

Ah. Great explanation Gubbs, thanks!

I noticed the same under steer with mine, but I just dialed in a touch of dual rate.

However, now you got me thinking about an even softer center spring setup that I’m already at to make the weight transfer help the steering and pull the dual rate back out.
It’ll probably help with corner speed. I’m already roughly the same as you on the other springs and damper tubes.

Man, I have been out for a while. Spool axle? Please, bring me up to speed guys.

This is something I've been trying. The shoulder screws let the spur have a little wiggle so the mesh aligns properly under power. Some of the lockers have been really noisy and this tames the noise significantly. And for the record, a very tight diff and one that's locked is not the same!

Cranking down the diff is definitely not the same. I will usually start with the diff. Once my car starts hiking, the spool goes in. I don’t change much, more caster is usually it

Jason- on crc Black spools to me feel great no diff out, seems to come out of corner faster.

I’m about 2- 3/10s faster with a spool than a diff in certain high grip conditions.

I hope you’re getting the itch to produce some pan car product again.