Got my Fenix slim chassis in. Throw away the carbon spacers and order Xray part #373121.

The spacers are annoying to eliminate pod tweak since it shifts the mounting point a bit on the links. Slapped on the Xray threaded posts and pod is perfectly centered to the chassis. Otherwise, good quality chassis from Fenix as usual.

savage how much wider are these arms? How much are they?

Hey guys, have a couple '18 parts for sale that I no longer need. So if you guys are looking for the updated pieces check'em out here: listing

FS: 4PX - Hobbwing XR10 ESC - Savox Servos - Trinity Motors - OS - Jconcepts - Xray

My local club has a 190mm maximum track width.

Do the wide arm kits fit within that?

Depends what tires you are running...

Gravity or CRC rubber premounts.

Mine do yes I can make them any custom width needes

Can anyone recommend a good outdoor setup for med grip asphalt? I have an idea just wanna compare.

Thanks

Question for the group. New to F1 and I picked up a used 2016 X1. I’m fighting an on power pull to the right. Have taken the car completely apart and rebuild to kit standard. Spent a lot of time in diff and it is fine. Looking for suggestions on what to try. Someone told me today to check weight distribution which I will try next. Any other ideas?

So far this is what I have as options:
1. Check your front springs to see if one is collapsed.
2. Check tweak - rear side springs
3. Check the bearings in the front axles
4. Check the drive side, outside hub bearing
5. Weak servo saver

On a side note, anyone have a spare NIP lower suspension arm for a 2016 X1 part 372114? Can’t find any online since they were discontinued. Don’t want to have to purchase two of the new 2017 372115 arms.

make sure your pod is absolutely free of movement bias; use 16g wires and make sure they don't have unwanted tension in them. you could also cut off the sensor cable jacket, or just find the softest units you can find.

By dealing with these two, then only you can begin troubleshooting the mechanical stuff. Cheers bud

What is the difference between the 16 and 17 arms they look the same to me

Swaybar mounting holes?

The 17 arms have a bit more clearance so you can access the swaybar ball underneath with a 2mm driver. (little more material removed from the 17 lower arm)

They can be used interchangeably and I doubt anyone can feel a difference between the two lower arms.

When you install the entire diff and shaft, make sure there's about 1mm of play. You don't want the diff assembly pressed onto the pod.

I get the tension bit, but why specifically 16g?

The smaller diameter taking up less space and thus less chance for a bind?