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Old 01-30-2018 | 11:44 PM
  #3721  
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Dont take my observation wrong, looks really cool. I just wanted to share that i did also the same some time ago and find the way how to install things keeping motor fun in the same position (between esc and motor - not a fan to install back). However i am not able to do it such cool like youra (poor soldering technics and i have no skill for that )
Enjoy the car! Consistent laps might come just with a different body sometime ! I also give a try for Bitty.

Cheers

Originally Posted by disaster999
Theres a few reasons why I had my ESC in that orientation:
  1. ESC came from my other car and it was already in that orientation so i didnt feel like desoldering all the wires.
  2. It gives me extra room between the ESC and the motor to put a fan there.
  3. I can easily plug in the program box for the ESC if I had it in that orientation.
  4. Tamiya did the same thing on the 419



I dont mind the long motor wires and the with them so close to the top deck as I dont feel like it was affecting performance at all. I might redo my wiring if Im bored enough, just to make everything neater. The transponder is just there temporarily as it lives on my other car. But seeing how fast my car was I had to know what was my lap times. Im going to come up with a better solution to mount the transponder so its a little bit more protected.

Performance is amazing. I wrote about a few post back on how the car handled. Setup wise is pretty much stock with slight adjustments on the camber link spacers. The Axon shocks and springs are amazing. Cant say enough good things about them. Pair that with a good set of tires the car was really fast around the track. I was able to keep up with the faster guys on my track. Checking my lap times and comparing it to theirs, I actually have the fastest lap, need to work on my consistency tho.
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Old 02-03-2018 | 01:36 PM
  #3722  
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Default 419XR

Just starting a new build to go alongside my 419X...





A comparison of the various chassis:

Left - 419X WS ally
Middle - 419X carbon
Right - 419XR carbon



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Old 02-03-2018 | 07:25 PM
  #3723  
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Is it weird that they're releasing these for a discontinued kit? Will they be re-releasing the TRF419?
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Old 02-03-2018 | 10:04 PM
  #3724  
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Didn't TRF get shut down completely? Maybe they're releasing parts for the last TRF kits they designed, because they're not going to release any more TRF kits.
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Old 02-04-2018 | 06:46 AM
  #3725  
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TRF are still very much going. They only got rid of the pay driver team. The designers and sone of their drivers are still there. The 419XR is a new kit, but only available in Japan. The rest of us get a conversion kit for the 419X.

The next TRF is the TRF103 which will be out around June.

Also this year is the Worlds.. it will be interesting to see who Tamiya are going to drive for them.. or what chassis they will enter.
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Old 02-04-2018 | 07:22 AM
  #3726  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Also this year is the Worlds.. it will be interesting to see who Tamiya are going to drive for them.. or what chassis they will enter.
Maybe we will see TRF420 in autumn...with a TA07 single belt design...
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Old 02-04-2018 | 09:18 AM
  #3727  
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Ah, my bad, I thought they shut down TRF completely.

The TA-07 single-belt design is cool, to be sure, but I wonder what the long-term effect is on belt longevity? The belt is flexed significantly in two directions with the TA-07 design, instead of just one direction like every other belt-driven car design. Also, I wonder if the extra weight for the movable motor-mount is actually worth the benefit of being able to adjust the motor position? I figure that's why they released that design in a tub chassis first, because tub chassis vehicles are heavier and slower anyway, so they can assess the actual benefit of the design before upgrading their flagship race chassis to include it. I mean, do people really move the motor back and forth on their TA-07s on a regular basis, or do they just find one position they like and then leave it there forever? I was under the impression the latter is the case.
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Old 02-04-2018 | 10:23 AM
  #3728  
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Hi guys.

Can somebody help me with my 419.

I just cannot get equal left right steering without having to alter the end points by quite a lot.

Both track rods are the same length

I use an x-ray servo saver using the top middle hole and I have this pointing directly up with the wheels central.

Is this wrong? Should it be at an angle?
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Old 02-04-2018 | 10:59 AM
  #3729  
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Originally Posted by hipwell
Hi guys.

Can somebody help me with my 419.

I just cannot get equal left right steering without having to alter the end points by quite a lot.

Both track rods are the same length

I use an x-ray servo saver using the top middle hole and I have this pointing directly up with the wheels central.

Is this wrong? Should it be at an angle?
Your servo and your horn are at neutral, when you switch on on radio?
Your D/R, EPA and Sub Trim (!) are at 0 in your radio?
Your servo horn is then aligned as stated in the manual?

Begin with this 3 points from scratch. Then adjust yor steering rod that the two steering levers are perfectly straight aligned with your chassis. Then adjust your steering linkages with toe out 0.5-1.0 degrees. EPA fine tuning will be the last step. Maybe a little bit Sub Trim. For perfect results you need a setup station.

Cheers.
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Old 02-04-2018 | 11:39 AM
  #3730  
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Post a picture, hipwell. These problems are much easier to troubleshoot when people can see your setup.

Also, are you comparing the steering angle by looking at the vehicle on your workbench, or are you comparing the steering angle by driving it in circles? You need to drive it in circles to be sure you're not getting the same steering left vs. right, because the steering components will flex slightly differently on each vehicle.

Last edited by fyrstormer; 02-04-2018 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 02-05-2018 | 02:20 PM
  #3731  
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Originally Posted by hipwell
Hi guys.

Can somebody help me with my 419.

I just cannot get equal left right steering without having to alter the end points by quite a lot.

Both track rods are the same length

I use an x-ray servo saver using the top middle hole and I have this pointing directly up with the wheels central.

Is this wrong? Should it be at an angle?
It should be angled but I would not bother if a difference is a few clicks.
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Old 02-06-2018 | 12:57 PM
  #3732  
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Originally Posted by Tom1977
Your servo and your horn are at neutral, when you switch on on radio?
Your D/R, EPA and Sub Trim (!) are at 0 in your radio?
Your servo horn is then aligned as stated in the manual?

Begin with this 3 points from scratch. Then adjust yor steering rod that the two steering levers are perfectly straight aligned with your chassis. Then adjust your steering linkages with toe out 0.5-1.0 degrees. EPA fine tuning will be the last step. Maybe a little bit Sub Trim. For perfect results you need a setup station.

Cheers.
Thanks Tom.

Started again with the servo horn in the position described in the manual and seem to have got it almost bang on using a little bit of sub trim
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Old 02-11-2018 | 01:53 PM
  #3733  
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hey all, how heavy (grams) should the bottom half of the diff be with diff fluid in it?
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Old 02-11-2018 | 02:31 PM
  #3734  
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Depends on . If i remember well 12.5-12.6 g mines. I fill up with 1.4g. That you should look for,1.5 is still ok, 1.6 too much in my view.

Originally Posted by nubs
hey all, how heavy (grams) should the bottom half of the diff be with diff fluid in it?
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Old 02-11-2018 | 02:52 PM
  #3735  
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Would I notice much of an improvement going from a 419 to a 419x?

I race indoor 13.5 boosted class.

I can't justify the cost of a new x or xr kit but if a second hand one comes up at a good price I might consider it.
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