We often get sucked into the selling point that aluminum parts are an upgrade only to find out we didn't really need it later on. This is likely true more than we want to admit. There are a few exceptions where it makes sense. However, there is nothing wrong with adding a shim to make it fit better no mater if it's aluminum or plastic.

In the past I purchased the aluminum stuff because it allowed me to feel confident that part would be a permanent fix and never have to worry about it again as in NO DNFs. Most top race rigs today have been tested to reasonable failure and don't need upgraded aluminum parts IMO.

The play is side to side, not front to back. I tried a diff shim....didn't help. It seems that you have to loosely install them and "push" them snug, then tighten. This helped a little bit. I'll run it and see.

But yes, nothing wrong with the composite pieces. I liked the idea of "upgrading" to have something perceived as being better/stronger. Completely not NEEDED. I'll likely go back to the composite hold downs while using both CNC chassis mounts.

So whats the concensus on the TIN shock shafts vs stock? Am going to rebuild and did not feel like the upgrade is warranted. But given I have to buy new shafts anyway...

Personally, I bought them for my SCT. Not sure I would do the same. The tini coating wears off, and then you have chrome shafts again!

If your existing shaft shafts aren't bent, just polish them. Buy some chrome polish, chuck the shock shaft up in a drill and polish it. Rebuild with new O-rings.

I have done that numerous times, yet these are on their last leg, and with new rubber goods, and hardware I figure I will give new rods a try.

Hear ya. More times than not I had to replace due to a bent shaft.

The way these shock shafts like to bent, I'd be hesitant on buying anything that costs more.

A trick I learned back when my son was in cub scouts (racing pinewood derby) was to use jewelers rouge, talk about making a super slick surface!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Jewelers-...3-01/589648801

If you don't like to take the time to polish your shaft, then yeah TiNi is the way to go.

Thats funny you meantion that, that is what they used to use back in the stock (brushed) motor days on the bronze bushings to get the motors to spin up faster and be fully seated in the bearings.

The TiNi shock shafts are nice. With the EB48.4 they're just a straight upgrade. The mistake many made with the older vehicles, and the SCT, is doing that upgrade without also getting the delrin shock cartridge inserts (which are stock on the 48.4). If you don't run the delrin, or you don't keep your shock boots in good condition, then indeed they TiNi will wear off fairly quickly. If you run the delrin and also keep your shock boots in good condition so that you aren't constantly pushing fine dirt and dust into the shock, then the TiNi is a nice upgrade, though it won't be a drastically noticeable thing on track by any means.

Finally started working on my new EB48.4 kit that I just got earlier this week

Throwing this tip out there based on what I've learned with the older .3 was that the nuts would tend to strip out of the wing mount, so I've been gluing them in place with some CA and Zip kicker and that's worked very well for me:

So I want to try Ryan Lutz's setup because he recently raced our current track layout and I figured it would be something worth trying, however he's only got his nitro setup posted:
http://lutzinator.com/wp-content/plu...2011-12-17.pdf

Do folks generally think this would be close enough to the electric version or would the nitro setup be too far off?


One thing I couldn't help but to notice was that he marked CVD's in his setup, is this simply because the nitro kit come with CVD's by default?

My kit comes with universals and I saw the following note posted on the OP:
My track is smooth so my question is whether it really makes any difference on a smooth track because the note only talks about bumpy conditions and doesn't really explain why one option is better for which condition.

For those who have the ability to update the tuning guide, I think it would be helpful to include this tuning option with more clarification on the next release of the document:
https://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/u...t_Up_Guide.pdf

I also had a hard time locating Tekno shims in the 4x9mm size but had some extra's lying around that worked nicely, If someone knows of a comparable Tekno shim pack available, will you please post a link to it so that I can add it to my notes



I've also been told by another brand's pro driver that he prefers to use plastic shims with the understanding that plastic shims are less abrasive so not to dig into the arms/hub carriers and I'm curious if there are others who feel the same way?

I haven't really seen any excessive wear using aluminum spacers over the past year I started using them in my cars.

TKR5165 I think you have to buy the Inserts to get those shims.

Which thickness did you use of those to take up the slop?