wheel alignment - need help!
#16
This is the servo-saver slop and it's the whole play there is in the steering system, is it much? (If I hold the servo saver blocked there's no play)
BUT , even with the servo locked down with a hard wire on the chassis so it can't move and the servo off the power, I still had the random steerings!!!
https://www.mediafire.com/file/pq23b...ver%20slop.mp4
BUT , even with the servo locked down with a hard wire on the chassis so it can't move and the servo off the power, I still had the random steerings!!!
https://www.mediafire.com/file/pq23b...ver%20slop.mp4
#18
Hi Bob, I had a similar problem. Turned out to be a transmitter problem. Probably got damaged in the mail. Don't get me wrong, I'm no expert it took me a long time to find the problem. I cleaned the gravel from underneath the servo saver , replaced the servo , and finally got a new transmitter. Problem solved.
#19
So after some testing , walking next to the car while going straight I noticed the car goes a lot like a boat almost all the time while sometimes it kept following a turning course while none of the wheels were moving left or right, mainly the back side of it...
So I think the 80% of my problem is because of this:
*let me wear my glasses*
The back tires have the inward toe so each wheel pushes to the center, so the back side in order to stay centered, drifts all the time like a boat. Now, when a wheel grabs better for some reason, forces the car to take that direction leaving the other back tire drifting because on such a light weight car is easy to drift. See the picture below. Kg = weight = better grip.

Now what confuses me is that almost all RC cars I've seen have the inward toe on the back wheels, so why isn't everybody having this problem? Is it because of the flat tires I am on? Should I 3D print the back suspension arms so the wheels don't have inward toe....?
So I think the 80% of my problem is because of this:
*let me wear my glasses*
The back tires have the inward toe so each wheel pushes to the center, so the back side in order to stay centered, drifts all the time like a boat. Now, when a wheel grabs better for some reason, forces the car to take that direction leaving the other back tire drifting because on such a light weight car is easy to drift. See the picture below. Kg = weight = better grip.

Now what confuses me is that almost all RC cars I've seen have the inward toe on the back wheels, so why isn't everybody having this problem? Is it because of the flat tires I am on? Should I 3D print the back suspension arms so the wheels don't have inward toe....?
#20
Yep , I just proved my theory right!!! After a very long time I finally did a test half-removing the chassis shafts of the rear suspension arms, straighten up the rear toe by putting some spacers between the arms and chassis , I did some tests and YES it's fixed!
(this is just temporary you can't run it like this for a long, the suspensions hardly work and did it just for the shake of the test)
Now the problem is that I don't know where to find adjustable rear suspension arms, or the STL file to 3D print a pair that has less inward toe! Can you help???
Before and after

Close up of the temporary mod
(this is just temporary you can't run it like this for a long, the suspensions hardly work and did it just for the shake of the test)
Now the problem is that I don't know where to find adjustable rear suspension arms, or the STL file to 3D print a pair that has less inward toe! Can you help???
Before and after

Close up of the temporary mod
Last edited by Bob Corey; 11-24-2017 at 06:05 PM.
#21
That's just a band aid. The car won't handle properly at speed without some rear toe and any car with a couple of degrees rear toe should track straight. There's something else going on here.
Also, most common 3D printing materials aren't suitable for suspension parts. Too fragile or flexible.
Also, most common 3D printing materials aren't suitable for suspension parts. Too fragile or flexible.
#22
Tech Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,990
From: Wa state USA
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/1/1_content.html There's a little go tab to the right. kinda hard to see.
#23
#24
So after some testing , walking next to the car while going straight I noticed the car goes a lot like a boat almost all the time while sometimes it kept following a turning course while none of the wheels were moving left or right, mainly the back side of it...
So I think the 80% of my problem is because of this:
*let me wear my glasses*
The back tires have the inward toe so each wheel pushes to the center, so the back side in order to stay centered, drifts all the time like a boat. Now, when a wheel grabs better for some reason, forces the car to take that direction leaving the other back tire drifting because on such a light weight car is easy to drift. See the picture below. Kg = weight = better grip.

Now what confuses me is that almost all RC cars I've seen have the inward toe on the back wheels, so why isn't everybody having this problem? Is it because of the flat tires I am on? Should I 3D print the back suspension arms so the wheels don't have inward toe....?
So I think the 80% of my problem is because of this:
*let me wear my glasses*
The back tires have the inward toe so each wheel pushes to the center, so the back side in order to stay centered, drifts all the time like a boat. Now, when a wheel grabs better for some reason, forces the car to take that direction leaving the other back tire drifting because on such a light weight car is easy to drift. See the picture below. Kg = weight = better grip.

Now what confuses me is that almost all RC cars I've seen have the inward toe on the back wheels, so why isn't everybody having this problem? Is it because of the flat tires I am on? Should I 3D print the back suspension arms so the wheels don't have inward toe....?
#25
That is fine, but move them all the way back and forth and look for something else moving. The play in the linkage isn’t what’s causing it to wander left and right down the straight. Either something is loose or the Servo is bad. That’s the only two things it can be.
#26
Last edited by Bob Corey; 11-25-2017 at 07:26 AM.
#27
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,664
Three degrees of rear toe-in is standard and helps keep your car going straight. Reducing it or eliminating it altogether will make your car harder to drive. I recommend you go through the rear suspension as follows;
1) Remove the rear tires and rear shocks.
2) Move the rear suspension arms up and let them drop on their own. They should drop all the way down without you touching them. If not then there is binding somewhere. Fix as necessary.
3) Ensure the rear inner hinge pins are perfectly flat and not bent. If bent, replace. You will need to disassemble to check this.
4) Ensure the outer hinge pins are also flat and not bent. Replace as necessary
5) Make sure the rear droop is the same left to right. Adjust until they are and use the setting from your manual.
6) Check the rear shocks and look for a bent shaft. If straight, ensure they compress and expand without sticking. Fix as necessary.
If all checks out, then do the same to the front suspension. Fix or adjust as necessary.
The tiny bit of slop shown in your video is normal and should not affect the way your car tracks much if at all. Shimming to the point of zero movement might make things too tight and make it worse.
1) Remove the rear tires and rear shocks.
2) Move the rear suspension arms up and let them drop on their own. They should drop all the way down without you touching them. If not then there is binding somewhere. Fix as necessary.
3) Ensure the rear inner hinge pins are perfectly flat and not bent. If bent, replace. You will need to disassemble to check this.
4) Ensure the outer hinge pins are also flat and not bent. Replace as necessary
5) Make sure the rear droop is the same left to right. Adjust until they are and use the setting from your manual.
6) Check the rear shocks and look for a bent shaft. If straight, ensure they compress and expand without sticking. Fix as necessary.
If all checks out, then do the same to the front suspension. Fix or adjust as necessary.
The tiny bit of slop shown in your video is normal and should not affect the way your car tracks much if at all. Shimming to the point of zero movement might make things too tight and make it worse.
#28
Thank you for the detailed message, but the car is pretty much new, the suspension arms move perfectly and when you lift the car a little the wheels have the same distance from the ground. It seems really weird to me that the angle helps the car go straight because
a) IMAGINE the toe was 20 degrees in, then the wheels would be drifting towards each other even more making the car's tail drift left and right.
b) because I did a test with almost no inward toe and my flat tires were cooperating nice with the ground making it drive straight with no weird and unpredictable movement.
I am really confused :-s
a) IMAGINE the toe was 20 degrees in, then the wheels would be drifting towards each other even more making the car's tail drift left and right.
b) because I did a test with almost no inward toe and my flat tires were cooperating nice with the ground making it drive straight with no weird and unpredictable movement.
I am really confused :-s
#29
You have to understand that EVERYBODY is running toe in the rear. That's a way to compensate the fact the front is too efficient compared to the rear.
Now, the toe must be symmetric. There is no way that it will make the car drift the way you are describing it. Please read the definition of toe and how it works (mainly by getting rear tyres hot).
On drift car, people are reducing the rear toe to obtain a more stable drift. In this case it is preferable to have outboad toe instead of inboard toe.
Now, the toe must be symmetric. There is no way that it will make the car drift the way you are describing it. Please read the definition of toe and how it works (mainly by getting rear tyres hot).
On drift car, people are reducing the rear toe to obtain a more stable drift. In this case it is preferable to have outboad toe instead of inboard toe.
#30
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 491
From: Czech republic
Yep , I just proved my theory right!!! After a very long time I finally did a test half-removing the chassis shafts of the rear suspension arms, straighten up the rear toe by putting some spacers between the arms and chassis , I did some tests and YES it's fixed!
(this is just temporary you can't run it like this for a long, the suspensions hardly work and did it just for the shake of the test)
Now the problem is that I don't know where to find adjustable rear suspension arms, or the STL file to 3D print a pair that has less inward toe! Can you help???
Before and after

Close up of the temporary mod

(this is just temporary you can't run it like this for a long, the suspensions hardly work and did it just for the shake of the test)
Now the problem is that I don't know where to find adjustable rear suspension arms, or the STL file to 3D print a pair that has less inward toe! Can you help???
Before and after

Close up of the temporary mod

As everybody here already said, reducing toe won't help. 0° toe-in makes rear end unpredictable at high speed, especially while braking.



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