Here is a JConcepts picture of Cav's car from the worlds.
Looks like using the curved cups at the wheels.

Is that body extra thin/light weight? Look how rough the surface is.

likely just because they are the first pulls off a unprepped 3d printed mold just to get them out for the worlds.

New JC "P2", outdoor body.

Most of the team guys are using the old cups from the b5/b5m series as they don’t develop anywhere near the slop that the new cups do. Not to mention you don’t need chapstick to keep the cups from popping off when adjusting the camber and toe. At least that’s what I have been told. My B6 had about 10 races on it and started developing slop. So I chucked it up to a first run batch and bought new cups. They did last a lil longer but still they developed some slop pretty quick. I switched back to the old ones as Cav and the new World champ has (hint hint) and haven’t looked back.

Yeah, it sounds like you are on the right track. I would increase your pack by using thicker oil and/or smaller hole pistons. Also, increasing your anti-squat could help as well.

What ride height are you running? I usually run around 17 mm.

I’ve been running mine on carpet the past couple weeks and have found if you thicken the oils up simultaneously front and rear it stops this. Also using more rear droop helps as well as it gives the suspension in the rear more time/travel to soak up the Bump or short landing. This does however require a little more setup to tame the extra droop but could be an option if your willing to put in the time.

Edit I’ve settled on 17/16 front/rear ride heights.

2 serperate issues. Generally I have had slightly better luck with thicker oil when clipping the tops of jumps....but the bounce from flat landing is from to much pack not to little. Move to the 2 x 1.9 rear pistons with 35wt and try that. I think you will be supprised at how much better it lands.

ive been struggling with this for a long time now, our track is carpet directly on concrete with ply / wood jumps etc. if you overshoot, you are landing on concrete from 5ft up after flying for 12ft+..

i think there are certain jumps and landings that are simply beyond the abilities of our cars suspension to control, these jumps you just need to focus on nailing the downramp every. single. time. if you cant manage this, you simply have to deal with the 'pack bounce' from running heavy oils/small holes or the chassis slap from running large holes/light oil.

i have tried all these combinations and there is no magic setup for flat landing a big jump apart from not flat landing a big jump..

What are the advantages to running the brass bulkhead? My home track is rather large and I’m having issues with a light front end by the end of the straight. Will a brass bulkhead help or do I need a front wing?

I tried the brass (carpet off-road) bulkhead and did not like it on either stock or mod. Went to aluminum for the durability yet light weight. Brass was to add weight to get to the minimum weight of 1499 grams. However it put to much weight over the front and made the car to twitchy for my liking.

I’ve never ran my car without the brass front bulkhead and front wing. Even on loose loamy low bite dirt with the lay down, I still run the brass front bulkhead. Yes it makes the car a handful at first. But after you spend some time getting the setup right again it works perfectly. No more chasing the Car on the ground or in the air. Plus your not lifting while on the ground to keep the front end down. all it took was an oil and piston change to tame the car again.

does anyone know if there is a set of springs for the B6D or just individuals? if so what are the part numbers. and what would be recommended for a high bite indoor track?

A step in the right direction would be bladders. Bladders (w/ caps that breathe) would keep the air out of the oil as much as possible making them as consistent as possible. You could choose to run without the bleed screw for completely no rebound or with the screw for a little "pack" at the end of the stroke.

I used bladders with no screw during a local points series with a some huge jumps. video of layout. The jump area in front of the driver stand was changed from the original design. No proper landing was put in for various reasons. But racers found if they could take it like a triple and land it there was time to be gained and you know how racers get.

Obviously the use of bladders was half-baked as the shocks aren't designed for it but they managed to stay in position long enough and worked well enough. Eventually one failed to remain in the proper orientation but I'll chalk it up to the piston beating the stuff out of it.
Admittedly my hot lap was a tick slower(could have been conditions too) but the consistency gain was well worth it at the time.

I'm not one one to rush out to buy the latest and greatest item/fad. Heck I'm still racing a B5M. But, if AE came out with a proper design for using bladders. Boom. Money well spent.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...oduct_line=all