I run 4000 4 pole to race

4150kv Maclan here

4600kv

4000kv, 4 pole

4300kv

Love my Tekin 4300..... dialed down to keep me out of trouble, but the punch is there when i need it....

Like when i have to punt my buddy out of the way going into a turn

How do you like it?

I run the SMC 4500kv motor in my 4wd sct.

Most will run anywhere from 4000kv-4700kv, with a few liking the 3800kv motor.

heck of a motor. runs cool and lots of power. Great motor for the money.

Alright, turning to you guys for advice regarding toe in/out. Specifically front toe.

I recently changed to Tekno's recommended 2017 indoor/outdoor setup. I've been struggling with on power traction at my home track which is outdoor, medium to large (8th scale track), hard packed, lose top layer. The track usually starts out with medium bite. By the time the qualifiers are done and the track has been watered a few times traction levels are pretty good. Id say medium/high.

This has been my first season for club racing so i'm pretty green when it comes to setups/tuning. After changing to this setup I noticed the front toe was way out \ /. I dont have a toe gauge so i've just been wrenching on the steering turnbuckles and kinda eyeballing it which I dont feel great about.

The only note on the setup sheet regarding toe is "0 at full droop". I've found a trick where you put the front of your truck against a wall and use your camber gauge to measure toe.

I think I can work out how to measure it but I have a few questions.

1. Should I take both of the steering links off and just set them to default/stock lengths and adjust from there?

2. Not so much a question but ask for advice? Any other opinions regarding lack of traction under power?

1. Don't get too worked up about the front toe, its pretty much tuned to preference. The more toe out you have the more initial steering you will have.

2. I really like the latest indoor/outdoor setup but I think the diff fluids are too high for looser outdoor tracks. I normally run 7 7 5, or 10 7 5 on slick outdoor tracks and don't be afraid to run more rear toe. I normally run 4 degrees but will go up to 5 degrees (maximum you can get) if its really slippery.

Thank you for the response!! Just to be clear, you're saying that going more toe in / \ in the rear will help to stabilize the truck on power? I'm loving this thing in the corners but it's a handful on the back straight. Been testing AKA impact soft, JC 3ds green compound and Blockade M3s. Liking the AKAs the best right now.

Correct

This is getting annoying, it has happened a few times now.... the bottom screw backs out of the carrier and I even drilled in a set screw! I tried putting lock tite in it, and it still came out. After installing the set screw it was good for a few months, but I guess its time to buy another carrier. ]:

Don't use thread lock on plastic parts, it will actually weaken the plastic and make it more likely to strip. Start with a new spindle, drill the hole for a setscrew if you like, and a fresh screw. Be careful not to over tighten the screw and you should be good. Check the screw after every few runs if you're not using a setscrew. If you have a setscrew it shouldn't ever loosen. If it strips again don't use thread lock, use CA glue.