TRG 117 chassis with electronics and wiring sans the Mercedes W07 polycarbonate body, in different angles.
















Pardon the influx of photos. There is no specific TRG thread so nowhere to post and share stuff but here.

Share all you want, brother, share all you want.

Moar close-ups, please!

I would be interested in seeing a good close up of the front body mount and knowing if it is something particular to that chassis or could be used on other cars as well.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tech...qYuPbZNDvc9IM:

Does anyone have this part and if so, can you post a picture?

I need some idea of a starting gearing recommendation. It's an indoor carpet track, and i'm running a 25.5 motor. A FDR, or pinion for a 63 tooth spur would help too.

3.0 is a good starting point

Thank you. I even have that pinion on hand.

If you are going to be racing at Windy City, 3.0 is a good starting point.

Been a few years since I raced F1. There used to be a few kits like 3 racing and speed passion that were extremely inexpensive yet still competitive. I'm trying to help friends get into F1 without breaking the bank. Assuming most folks have a spare shorty lipo, what would be your opinions on the least expensive new F1 kit and motor/esc package? Or, what would you do if you had to piece together 2 or 3 loaner cars?

Hey all,

Was hoping to get a brief explanation of the effects on changing the spring rates on the side springs and front springs.

Generally, what role do they play in handling? Impact of going harder or softer?

I'm really really happy with my serpent SF2W. Cheaper than the Roche or XRay, but not any less capable from what I can see. There is the new SF3 and they are still cheaper than the newer hyped models.

I have read many times though that is best to buy something that you can get local support for. But honestly with online parts so freely and quickly available I've yet to be stuck without something for more than a few days.

Side springs,

They affect to general traction and initial steering. Going softer will increase rear grip and reduce initial steering. If your car is lazy, it is a quick change going to a harder one it will give you a bit more initial steering. The same if your car is too edgy you might find a help softening side springs. On carpet softening side springs help to solve grip roll.


Front spings, I have not played that much with them.
The softer, the more steering will provide, but also, it will make braking harder. For bumpy tracks you will need a softer one. A harder sping in the front will make the car react a bit quicker. A really soft spring can collide on high speed turns making the car behave weirdly.


At the moment I am using mostly Xray springs on my Exotek F1.
Side springs from 0.9 to 1.5. really it depends a lot of traction and surface, but I keep working with 0.9 and 1.2 most of the time. High grip carpet 0.6
On the front outdoors 3.0 or 3.5 and indoors 2.0 or 2.5.

Cheers
Javier

Strangely enough, this post appeared in the XRAY X1 forum, referencing advice from Xray team driver Jan Rathiesky

Generally, as traction comes up, you go to lighter springs. Lower traction, heavier, as grip allows.

In super high traction, lighter springs let the car roll within the suspension travel. Stiff springs will make the car act more like a door hinge and want to traction roll when the springs reach their limit of roll. In lower traction, stiffer springs keep the weight from transferring too much and break the tires traction, as referred to above.

All of this is subject to limits, but it's a general guide.

As always, make it easy and look at the setup helper from xray. Most of the info is universal.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/xra...6_SetupHelper/

Tempting....

What rear wing is on that! Is that a new Tamiya release?