Yes, I only comes out to practice a couple of Saturday a month at Tamiya.

Hi guys

I will show you my last setup, that pushed my car for next level
I change only the Lightwight Outdrive ...

I use new things like Torque Link, E Block in Front and hope this changes pushed me always. Under the E Block I take a 0,7mm shim. I think 1mm work best.

I let you know if my changes work well and push more

Is anyone currently running IFS bodies on their 419x? I want to know if this body kit will fit properly: 51292

The Ebro will fit the 419x with no issues.

thanks!

Getting back into VTA after a few years of not running class. Going to be using my regular version of the 419 chassis. What are you guys gearing these at for that class. Big tracks!

Hi guys,

What are the general setup tips if weather gets too hot or too cold?

Thanks
Marton

Anyone have a 419x WS yet?

Hi guys

Yesterday I was back on Track but ...

My Car didn`t drive well with all this new things. I damaged my Front Block G and my inner Front Block E. I touched the wall and my Blocks where history and the XRay Stering Arm, Suspension Arm an C-Hub stayed well

And the Torque link work not I like. Car was not easy to drive for my liking it was to hard in corners.

To all the abundance my Sanwa Servo sets the work ... all in all a used day

Everything will be restored and go back to my base setup

shock leaking tips?

419X shocks leaking more than I remember on my 419

blue orings

worse with x rings 70 durometer

dont wanna use clear, too sticky

I thought I read somewhere that there is a shim to use to add a little extra pressure on the seals
plastic Im assuming, metal makes no sense

Metal shims are the only things thin enough. You need a .3mm shim, make sure the inside diameter is greater than the diameter of the shaft opening and that the outside diameter is big enough to keep the shim from moving.

Not really sure why you think the clear oring is too sticky. That friction comes from having a tight internal diameter which prevents leakage. The loose feeling you get from the blue oring and xring is due to the fact that they have a larger internal diameter and hence the leakage.

just trying to keep things as smooth as possible and clear is noticeably more
drag, stiction, sticky, you know.

x rings in my offroad stuff are dialed.

dropped in some 70 durometer Tamiya x rings yesty and they are like a sieve.
one run and all 4 sat in a puddle of their own making

thought there may be a trick of the week plastic shim of some sort

X-rings (42215) with 70nm are for mineral oil based damper fluids.

You need X-rings with 50nm (42214) in combination with silicone based damper fluids.

I use them in combination with #53586.

No wonder your dampers are seeping as hell.

the 70 duro were given to me and came highly recommended by reputable source that runs them, however I didn't get the opportunity to get feedback to my experience with them from same source, just that both were available and these were recommended for whatever the reason.
I believe that the 50 were said to be too soft and short lived therefore 70 is run as favorite.

Looking at shocks today I believe that some swelling may have become a factor and the seepage has slowed if not stopped.
will refill again and check results next time out and also get a chance to get input from my Sensei .

Honestly Cuda, people say Xray shocks are the best but it has the same amount of o-ring stiction as tamiya shocks with the clear o-ring. Trust me, just use the clear o-ring unless you want to rebuild every run. The blue is smoother but you have to use 3mm shims to increase pressure a bit so it doesn't leak as bad. But I think the clear o-ring is the way to go. I can't really feel any difference on track between the two o-rings.