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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 07-15-2017 | 06:59 AM
  #1456  
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It's been a while since I cut out a new body. I always used body scissors and kinda hacked it up. On this, I decided to check the YouTube out for tips and it seemed like the scoring method works best. So I grabbed a utility blade/box cutter and went to town...

Getting the hang of it


This is definitely the cleaner method to cutting bodies and getting clean lines and cuts.

All cut out.



The body lines and detail are great! Man this is a good looking body. And to top it off, I hadn't looked at the decal sheet. O my! These are great!




Again, for $100 these Tamiya kits can't be beat.
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Old 07-15-2017 | 09:32 AM
  #1457  
LJH
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Back when I was building a lot of bodies I always used lexan scissors, they usually came out OK but when I cut out the Porsche body I used the scoring meathod.....way faster and cleaned. I have now done two bodies by scoring them and I think it is the only way to go now.

Tamiya still has the best bodies I have experienced, they just look good.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-16-2017 | 01:08 AM
  #1458  
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Originally Posted by MajorRex
Always good to see more people with TT02
I am using Hi-Torque Servo Saver (51000) that come with the steering upgrade set...the kit saver is pretty lame, you can just throw it away like my friend.
If you treasure your servo and would like to race then get a better one, otherwise you can still use the kit one for fun.
The Xray Super Stiff V2 servo saver is quality. Far better than the Tamiya 51000. Previously I'd put 51000s on all my cars as the only reference point I had was the kit savers which are variable to say the least. However I found after a few runs - probably an hour or so - they still developed some inconsistencies around the straight ahead position and the steering wouldn't quite centre which irritates the hellout of me. With the Xray my car has now got over 20 hours on it and it's still as good as day one.
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Old 07-16-2017 | 06:39 PM
  #1459  
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I finally had a chance to run the car with the 4.33:1 FDR. After 12 minutes I am at 155*. I think that is as steep as I can go this time of the year.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-17-2017 | 06:07 AM
  #1460  
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Did you check temps on the ESC and lipo?
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Old 07-17-2017 | 06:18 AM
  #1461  
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Originally Posted by nitrostarter
Did you check temps on the ESC and lipo?
Yes, The battery was at 110* and the ESC was at 115*. The tennis court showed right around 115* as well.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-17-2017 | 07:18 AM
  #1462  
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Originally Posted by LJH
With that said if you need a new tub why not get the stiffer one?

If you buy it off e-bay RCMart will ship it free. Here on the East Coast I get stuff from RCM in 8 or 9 days. Still a bummer though.

Cheers,
Jim
That's a good question. I believe that the failure mode of the "reinforced" parts may be a problem. If you're prone to crashing, having more flex is a big deal. When you reinforce one part, you move the stress it may feel down the line.

When I tore my chassis, I believe that the "soft" chassis would have been just fine in the end.

I can confirm the shipping times as well.
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Old 07-18-2017 | 12:00 AM
  #1463  
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Originally Posted by Mini35
The Xray Super Stiff V2 servo saver is quality. Far better than the Tamiya 51000. Previously I'd put 51000s on all my cars as the only reference point I had was the kit savers which are variable to say the least. However I found after a few runs - probably an hour or so - they still developed some inconsistencies around the straight ahead position and the steering wouldn't quite centre which irritates the hellout of me. With the Xray my car has now got over 20 hours on it and it's still as good as day one.
Sure...will try it when I have the chance

Last week when I broke my front knuckle, I replaced the front upper arm at the same time with YR one so that I can adjust the camber. Their original turnbuckle is really soft...it bends after a light impact
I now replaced it with Ti one, looks much better but will see...
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Old 07-18-2017 | 12:13 AM
  #1464  
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Would a 26t pinion fit with a stock 70t spur? 25t to 26t is an increase in diameter of 0.8mm so the pinion-spur distance is 0.4mm closer with the 26t. In my experience tamiya motor mounts provide a relatively loose mesh, certainly looser than I would set on my BD7.

I'm entering a stock spec class where only the pinion can be changed.
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Old 07-18-2017 | 07:19 AM
  #1465  
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Finally got the wing, headlight and taillight buckets cut out. The wing must be thicker lexan because it was much harder to score, but I got it. My awesome wife was in town yesterday and stopped at the LHS for some paint. I let her pick out the main color but said it needed to be my sons favorite color, so fluorescent green it is. I should be ready to paint this afternoon after giving the lexan a quick bath.


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Old 07-18-2017 | 08:04 AM
  #1466  
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Originally Posted by 2hundy
Would a 26t pinion fit with a stock 70t spur? 25t to 26t is an increase in diameter of 0.8mm so the pinion-spur distance is 0.4mm closer with the 26t. In my experience tamiya motor mounts provide a relatively loose mesh, certainly looser than I would set on my BD7.

I'm entering a stock spec class where only the pinion can be changed.
You could try...and see if you can turn the wheel freely...the stock motor mount only up to 25t pinion for 70t spur.
0.4mm gear mesh seems a lot to me as I usually left a paper thin gap between spur and pinion which should far less than 0.4mm
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Old 07-18-2017 | 09:07 AM
  #1467  
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Originally Posted by MajorRex
You could try...and see if you can turn the wheel freely...the stock motor mount only up to 25t pinion for 70t spur.
0.4mm gear mesh seems a lot to me as I usually left a paper thin gap between spur and pinion which should far less than 0.4mm
Tamiya's predefined mesh is usually on the loose side, certainly more than just paper thin. Maybe this is still the case on the TT02?

Has anyone tried a 26t pinion?
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Old 07-18-2017 | 10:45 AM
  #1468  
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Just picked up a tt02r last week from the local shop. They run some outdoor races in the parking lot that I want to attend. I've read about 86 pages of this got some good information going forward with the car. I plan on running 17.5 vta series ( they do vta a little different apparently) possibly drift the car a bit as well. I'm in the process of building the car now. Been taking pictures every page or so while building it. Body is a McAllister 1970 trans am. Waiting for decals on that. Still need tires for my vintage wheels. I've ordered a few bits and pieces from tamiya USA that should arrive this week. Going to at least get camber adjustable on the rear. Also doing the body posts on the front bumper as that's what I'm used to when I used to race indoor carpet many years ago with my tc3. So far I am very impressed with the kit. Very easy to build and definitely good quality. I'll have to post up some pictures of my build when I can 😉
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Old 07-18-2017 | 04:27 PM
  #1469  
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I've been working on a couple of TT-02 kits myself. I just finished the Motul Autech GT-R. I'm almost finished with the Mercedes-AMG GT3. Just have to finish the headlights, taillights and the wing.

They were both really fun builds!
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Old 07-18-2017 | 05:07 PM
  #1470  
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Just started racing this summer in the novice class. Chassis of choice is the TT-02 Type S, with the NSX body. I started out using NiMH and a brushed motor and have been finishing 3rd. The top two are running brushless systems.

Last race of the summer is coming up this weekend and I've upgraded to brushless myself. We'll see what the results are.

Here's my equipment:
Reedy Sonic 540-M3 25.5 ROAR Spec motor
Hobbywing XeRun XR10 Justock ESC
Gens ace 500 mAh 50c 2S1P battery
Radio is the Futaba 3PRKA (hope to upgrade to the 4PX or 7PX this fall)

Upgrades/Hop-Ups:
TRF Special Damper with the hard black coating
Aluminum propeller joint and shafts
TT-01 Aluminum Bumper Stopper
FRP Battery Plate & Transponder Stay Set
Aluminum Motor Plate
Aluminum Motor Mount (upgrading to the Yeah Racing adjustable motor mount)
Left and right aluminum servo stays
XV-01 Universal Shaft Assembly
Aluminum Racing Steering Set and Steering Bridge
Front and Rear Carbon Damper Stays
Steel Suspension Mount Set
Front and Rear Steel Rebound Stoppers
Carbon Reinforced Hub Carriers (have held up pretty well so far)
TB Evo IV Suspension Arms
Carbon Reinforced Rear Uprights
TRF416 Front Uprights

Going to run a 64p 49T pinion with a 64p 82 spur.

I have really enjoyed tinkering with this chassis and it's been a lot of fun to drive. I personally feel this has been great for a beginning and with the hop-ups that are available it has allowed me to gradually improve my driving by slowing adding the hop-ups.
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