At lower speeds I could see getting a bunch of push (understeer) but once traction is broken on the rears I think it will become a handful.

Cheers,
Jim

I'll have to take some quick video to show and get some pointers on.

I have actually lived for 25 years flying high performance e-powered planes and gliders without a IR thermometer without blowing anything up because of heat but with that said on a plane you are not always WOT when flying, especially, pylon planes.....I need to give the old brain a break after a couple 130+ MPH circuits .

Right now I have a 81T spur and 44T pinion for a FDR of 5.02 actually. I will put in a 51T pinion which will bring me down to 4.33. I also have a 77T spur which should fit with the 51T pinion which gets me to 3.92 but I am thinking that may be pushing it.

Cheers,
Jim

I switched over to the 51T pinon last night and while I was collecting my stuff a nasty squall moved through so so running last night. I should be able to get a few packs through her tonight and it will be a good test because today is supposed to be the hottest day of the summer here.

Cheers,
Jim

If you're always on full throttle, probably time to move up to faster motor. Just like 1:1 cars, modulating the throttle works better; and going WOT, only when you need to accelerate. There is a whole new world between 0 and 100. It's difficult to feel it out at first, but it will allow you to drive like you're sitting inside the vehicle.

I actually think the none boosted 17.5T motor is a pretty good compromise between speed and acceleration and duration....though being a motor head (I have been driving tuned Audi's for 25 years now) I do like horse power. I would not mind a bit more top speed but I also want to keep it drive-able because I like turns and I do not want to start destroying drivetrain parts not to mention breaking parts when I misjudge a turn and hit something at higher speeds. Do I use full throttle a lot.....sure but I also use the brakes and throttle modulation to get around the "course"

With that said I was just comparing flying one of my high performance planes to driving a RC car. When I am driving the car I am asking for max performance a higher percentage of the time then when flying one of my fast planes, especially as I get older. Flying a plane with a 28" wingspan at over 130MPH takes a lot of concentration so I tend to do a couple hot laps and then back off and do a number of laps at 80MPH to let the heart rate come down. There is also the monetary consequences of crashing a plane compared to crashing a car

Cheers,
Jim

Raced last night and DNF in first heat and was done for the night!

Right rear axle stud caught the rail on a straight and ripped the entire suspension off the car lol. The Marshal was picking up bits and pieces and laughing.

The original tub is very soft and I had already noticed that the screws that secure the rear suspensions plate were backing out. So I put a drop of ca in last race and tightened them. Well this time they held.. really well lol.. so instead they broke off from chassis.

Now here is the frustrating part.. the reinfored blue and white tub are out of stock everywhere in the states.

Found a blue one in UK that will cost a lot to ship. White I have found in HK.

Either way, looks like my car will be out of commission for couple of weeks!

The reinforced tubs, i've never seen in stock in the states. Also, it may not be better for this. When I crashed my TT02b, it ~tore~ the blue tub I bought. It's harder, but I don't think it will help in a situation like that.

With that said if you need a new tub why not get the stiffer one?

If you buy it off e-bay RCMart will ship it free. Here on the East Coast I get stuff from RCM in 8 or 9 days. Still a bummer though.

Cheers,
Jim

I think I would still benefit from the stiffer chassis on carpet.

I contacted TamiyaUSA and they said they're are on order but 6 weeks out. Ouch.

May have to just opt for the pimpin White tub lol.

cool. what do i need to do to get down to that gearing you use? also, any other upgrades besides the shocks and the springs? i also wanna see a pic of your RC F!!

My RC F.. you mean what's left of it , after battle scars .. I'll see if I can load them from my phone.

For gearing.. I'm using the Yeah racing motor mount.. and had to trim the gear cover to fit the spur gear.

Other upgrades - steering arms / bridge and the prop shaft... used all Tamiya parts for those. I also had spare DCJ for front and CVD for rear.. so I run those.

What's a dcj?

Also what parts do I need to mount the spur with? Thanks!

DCJ are the double cardan axle joint. Similar to CVD but have two joints.. they're good for steering.

For spur gear mount, i forgot to list it as it came with the car.. it's this one 54500

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=7379

Two night is a row of thunder showers and not getting to run the car.....I have the jones bad....

With that the better half had a meeting last night so after putting the wee man to bed I played with the TT02. I converted it back to the RSR and put the staggered wheels with the Gravity USGT tires back on it. I also received the Maclan fan I had ordered and installed that. I will be interested to see how hot the motor gets with the 4.33:1 gearing and the fan.....I wonder if I will be able to go a bit steeper with the gearing with the fan. The last combination I have yields a FDR of 3.92:1, that might be pushing it a bit.

Cheers,
Jim